Lee resizer die -- many primers won't push out

[Beelzy]

As for Lee and any problems with their equipment, never. They do it right for
what their equipment is designed to do.

I use their dies and press for pistol ammo, and use RCBS for the rifle fodder.
(think on that for a moment)

[rayra]

Make sure the collet and the depriming pin are absoluted grease/oil free and then tighten that sucker TIGHT.

I punch out crimped primers all the time with no problems.

This. Anything else is nonsense.

[rayra]

Like Bruce3 said, I'm thinking about epoxying or CA-ing the pin in place, or I could silver-solder it with my oxy-map gas torch from Sears.

Do NOT do this. When the pin inevitably breaks you'll be crying about changing it out.
Simply degrease and tighten the die appropriately.

[Tony Sopranno]

The PMC flasholes should be fine, and once you remove the crimp edge off
the primer pocket the brass will serve you well. Nice and pliable for reloading
many times and doesn't grow like crazy.

I like it when I need to fireform cases for my 7mmTC/U.
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As for Lee and any problems with their equipment, never. They do it right for
what their equipment is designed to do.

I use their dies and press for pistol ammo, and use RCBS for the rifle fodder.
(think on that for a moment)

Okay yeah, I kinda figured that out by hit and miss. And it's good to know that the PMC brass is worth the effort of de-priming, and carving out the primer pockets. I can make a special form-tool from the right sized drill to carve out the crimp-burr from primer pocket -- no problem there. It all else fails, I can order a reamer from McMaster-Carr's (specialty machine tools). Thanks for that info...

[Tony Sopranno]

This. Anything else is nonsense.

- - -

Do NOT do this. When the pin inevitably breaks you'll be crying about changing it out.
Simply degrease and tighten the die appropriately

Well... errrrahh... I already went ahead and CA-ed the pin into the collet. But. thankfully, that can easily be undone with a little acetone, two wrenches and and mallet, or a ball peen hammer with brass punch block.

Once the acetone melts the CA is should be easy to disengage the pin from the collet, and then clean it all up afterward.

I used to work as a prototype model-maker and all this comes fairly easy, it just that the reloading specifics and shell case variances are throwing me for a bit of a loop.

Anyhow... thank you for that heads-up... I'll undo the CA tomorrow, or at the first opportunity. ...Gotta say though... the next 40 shell cases went as smooth as butter this afternoon. The CA in the collet/pin interface really halts any mechanical slippage from poorly machined parts.

The Lee dies are really nice, but the associated parts (pins collets, etc.) are crap -- burrs are still on the individual pieces.

I would never let junk like that past my own personal inspection when I was doing close tolerance work. All that Lee stuff is run on CNC machines (probably in China) and except for the dies there is essentially NO de-burring or polishing of the finished parts.

I would have at least electro-polished those stainless steel collets and ID pin after machining them. But that just me and my opinion.

[rayra]

If the krazyglue is already on there, might as well leave it be. Just remember it is there when the time comes to disassemble things.

By the way, if you'll be shooting a lot of military ammo, you'll quickly tire of reaming the primer pockets. The Dillon SuperSwage is a superior tool for the job and a good value, especially if you'll be shooting such ammo in the several hundreds or thousands of rounds. It rolls back the crimp (of any crimp pattern) beautifully and leaves a nice rounded corner to the primer pocket.

[Tony Sopranno]

The Dillon SuperSwage is a superior tool for the job and a good value, especially if you'll be shooting such ammo in the several hundreds or thousands of rounds. It rolls back the crimp (of any crimp pattern) beautifully and leaves a nice rounded corner to the primer pocket

I'll make a note of that, it sounds worth getting. I hate having to fight to get a 'goziner' into the 'gozoutta' holes...

Thank you.

[Darklyte27]

if you are going to look for some ammo check out wideners, they got the priv partizan 1k for 350$ shipped

specs of the brass below

http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=8695&dir=18|830|845

This ammo is extremely high quality. Brand new manufactured in 2008. It has PPU07 or 08 headstamp (No Guarantee on Headstamp). Prvi Partizan in Serbia made this ammo to exact M193 specs. Brass case, boxer non-corrosive primed, crimped primer with lacquer seal and loaded with a double base powder for military specs.

Packed in clear heavy plastic battle packs. We could have ordered it in green plastic, but that cost about $20.00 per 1000 more. Not worth it considering the quality of the clear plastic bags. (07/08 headstamp) No guarantees on the date. This product may contain 2007 Headstamp even though it was produced the first part of 2008.

By now you must know the quality of this ammo. We shot some of this lastest batch and, as expected, it is flawless. It feels like full powder M193 and chronographs to exact specs. The brass is supurb and reloads very nicely. Stock up because we already know that 2008 will be higher due to lead prices finally coming on line. Also, everytime the Euro goes up against the Dollar, all surplus and new ammo goes higher.

[shonc99]

If you are having problems with the collet slipping due to a crimped primer, you need to tighten the collet down further. TIGHT

While I would not do it with a sizing die, I have thought about decapping Berdan primers with the Lee decapping die. Just sharpen the end of the decapping pin a bit and see what happens?