Handloading 308?

[Tacit Blue]

So I recently purchased a .308 rifle to get into target shooting. Seeing how much factory ammo costs around (.60 cents/rd) or so. I decided to research on loading my own.

I was looking at the Lee Classic loader

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/735723/lee-classic-loader-308-winchester

Few questions


1) Without any knowledge other than youtube and reading, is it possible for someone to do this without a mentor safely?

2) How much are you in reality saving per rd? When should I expect to have the equipment pay for itself?

3) I know must target/bench shooters prefer handloads ( I think) would a progressive also be a good choice?

[NewbieLoader]

So I recently purchased a .308 rifle to get into target shooting. Seeing how much factory ammo costs around (.60 cents/rd) or so. I decided to research on loading my own.

I was looking at the Lee Classic loader

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/735723/lee-classic-loader-308-winchester

Few questions


1) Without any knowledge other than youtube and reading, is it possible for someone to do this without a mentor safely?

2) How much are you in reality saving per rd? When should I expect to have the equipment pay for itself?

3) I know must target/bench shooters prefer handloads ( I think) would a progressive also be a good choice?

Question 1) Yes it is possible to learn to reload safely without a mentor. BUT I would recommend taking a reloading class BEFORE reloading a single round. Not sure what area you live in but you should be able to find a class locally. Its a great place to start.

2) I load .308 for 35 cents a round, and it is far more accurate than store bought ammo. If you enjoy shooting, reloading will allow you to shoot more. I have not done the math to figure out when my press has paid for itself, but I know it has already.

3) For precision rifle loads I recommend a single stage press to start off with. Get a feel of what it takes to clean, prep and load a round. I use my progressive press for pistol rounds only. I personally love the science part of trying to find just the right recipe for your gun. Its a great feeling to touch 5 shots at 100 yards or hit a target 1000 yards away.

Reloading for me is my Zen time, all of the world goes away when i'm at my bench. I hope this somehow helps you.

[JTROKS]

I have two progressive presses and I prefer to load my accuracy rifle rounds with a single stage. I also prefer weighted powder charge instead of metered. My AR15/10 plinking ammo I usually load with the progressive press.

If you adhere to manufacturer's load data and work up the load you should be fine. Loading 308 Win the most important in safety is using quality bullets. Someone gave me bullets that were marked 30 caliber. Upon measuring with caliper they were .311.

For rifle rounds it will pay for off when you need another batch of brass. One thing for sure that it feels really good when your loads shoot very accurately.

[RNE228]

1) I learned from books 30+ years ago. I bought a couple different reloading books, and read a lot. I also worked loads carefully, working them up. Never just go for a hot load... We did not have the internet/web/youtube back then... I guess there were some usenet type groups, rec.guns.ca maybe.

2) I never really looked at how much I save. I just like the whole process of reloading. Kind of like cooking from scratch; I can cook cheaper than going out, and most often make better tastier food. And, I like doing it.

3) I like a single stage for rifle rounds. It would be nice to have a progressive for 223 plinker ammo, and most pistol rounds. But for accuracy, I like single stage.

I have made some really accurate 308 with Federal cast, 4064 powder, Sierra 165bthp game kings. Nice for long distance antelope in Wyoming.

[Clownpuncher]

Here's my answers to your questions:

1) You can do it without a mentor, especially on a single stage. I did it without a mentor but get yourself a good reloading manual and read it, don't just rely on You Tube. You can certainly pick up some tips and tricks from guys in videos but you definately need to understand the basics that are published in a manual. I have several manuals and all of them are good, just keep in mind that they push their brand of product but the brand really doesn't matter.

2) You can save a considerable amount by reloading or you can pay about as much as factory ammunition. But, the thing to remember is in that comparison you are reloading premium bullets and eliminating many "mass production" variables vs a box of cheapo .308. Here is a good reloading calculator that lets you put in the cost of your gear and shows you how much you would have to reload to pay for it. But, like I said, it may take a while to "pay for it" but in the mean time you are getting a far superior product to factory loads. http://www.realguns.com/calculators/...stsavings.html

3) For what it sounds like you are wanting I would go with a single stage. I have a progressive and a single stage. I started with a Lee single stage anniversary kit and still use it. I got my progressive when I got tired of single staging pistol rounds. When going for accuracy, which is most of my rifle calibers, I use the single stage. I weight sort and hand turn my brass, use premium bullets and double check powder measurements. For my blasting rounds (pistol & AR) I will do them on a progressive since the accuracy isnt as important to me.

Good luck in your search and remember, while it may look like handloading saves you money you will probably just end up shooting more so its a zero sum gain. (other than you shoot more)

[09cs]

1) yes, people ahve been reloading for years before there were ever classes back in the day. Would most recommend it? Yes
Get your self some manuals and read them cover to cover, and like everyone else said, start low, work up. Don't load up 100 rounds before testing a smaller batch!

For accuracy, it is more than just savings, usually most handloads are more accurate than most factory ammo

[Clever]

REDDING DIES AND ACCESSORIES, RCBS FOR SINGLE STAGE PRESSS, ELECTRONIC CASE PREP MACHINE, PRIMER SEATER, CHARGE MASTER SCALE, SINCLAIR FOR OGIVE TOOLS, FORESTER FOR BRASS TRIMMING, THUMLERS TUMBLER USING WALNUT MEDIA MIXED WITH FLITZ POLISH, GOOD CALIPER, DILLION CASE LUBRICATION FOR SIZING BRASS, AND ALL THE RELOADING MANUALS FROM ALL THE BULLET AND POWDER MANUFACTURERS.

[kcheung2]

Yes it's possible to pick it up without a class or mentor. Read a lot, watch lots of YouTube.

My cost per round is 40c for 150gr plinking ammo vs 70c for commercial. But even my plinking ammo is more accurate than store bought. The real saving though is in match ammo. Hornady 150gr fmj projectiles cost 20c, but 168gr and 175gr match projectiles only cost 10c more. So my quality loads only cost me 50c vs $1.00 and up for commercial ammo. Similar comparisons can be made with 5.56. Twenty cents for 55gr fmj, 22c for 62gr, and 30c for 68gr hpbt. I'm shooting good quality ammo but at the cost of cheap steel cased stuff.

I bought a RCBS single stage kit for $300, my breakeven was about 1200 rounds (depending on caliber) and I hit that mark after 4 months.

The caveat though is that reloading isn't for everybody. If you have kids or lots of time commitments- don't do it. If you think you should be paid $25/hr on the weekends to putz around in your own garage, it's not for you.

[wecf]

The Lee Classic WILL load great ammo! My Dad used to win the 600 yard turkey shoot EVERY year with rounds he loaded with his and they are the PERFECT way to learn to load. It does take a little longer (5-10 sec more per round) than a single stage, but you can learn to load for almost no money in equipment cost and decide if you want to get into reloading on the cheap. It also makes you slow down and watch what your doing so the likelihood of making a mistake is much smaller.

And yes my Pop still uses the Lee Loader even though he has a single stage and a turret press.

[phdo]

So I recently purchased a .308 rifle to get into target shooting. Seeing how much factory ammo costs around (.60 cents/rd) or so. I decided to research on loading my own.

I was looking at the Lee Classic loader

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/735723/lee-classic-loader-308-winchester

Few questions


1) Without any knowledge other than youtube and reading, is it possible for someone to do this without a mentor safely?

2) How much are you in reality saving per rd? When should I expect to have the equipment pay for itself?

3) I know must target/bench shooters prefer handloads ( I think) would a progressive also be a good choice?

1) Yes, I learned how to reload from YouTube and online forums. Just make sure you're meticulous and focused. Try to build good habits. Make sure you buy at least one manual.

2) It cost me about $0.30-$0.70 a round depending on components. I'm a hoarder and I usually buy things in bulk to save money.

3) I learned on a progressive but ended up getting a single stage. The progressive helps in some of the process (e.g. priming, powder charging, etc.) and I use the single to size and seat.

Here's a good thread to get you started. Read up, have fun, and safe shooting

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=158086

[Rusty Scabbard]

rough numbers, current pricing. Better deals if you look for sales:
168 gr Sierra MK HPBT $174/500 plus shipping from Midway. Approx $ 0.38 ea
8 lb BL-C2, $ 190 (enough for 1270 rd) $ 0.069 ea.
CCI #200, $30/1000, $ 0.03 ea
Buy primers and powder local to avoid hazmat $$ ship
Brass - nearly zero cost if you scavenge and re-use.
$ 0.48 ea for material.
Lee Classic set up (Press, scale, powder dispenser), trimmers and dies - estimate maybe $250. It'll last pretty much forever.
Calipers, tumbler or means to clean. $50 -$200 depending on resourcefulness.
The above can make top of the line match grade ammo that'll beat any store bought stuff at 2-3X the price, especially since you can tune it to your rifle.
Do the research and read reputable guidebooks. YouTube has some info but the guidebooks re-iterate what's important.

[skibuff]

Progressive presses are great for volume shooting not good for target/accuracy I have a progressive for bulk hand gun and semi auto rifle shooting and a nice single stage RCBS for accuracy ammo.
If you buy match ammo it will run you over $1 per round. (Federal Gold medal Match)
Buying bulk is where you get your savings when reloading.
Reloading Match/Target .308 runs me .47 per round and Plinker .308 runs .37 per round.

Personally I would find a nice used single stage RCBS and start from there. I learned threw books 20 years ago but would have loved to have had classes or the internet available to help back then.

[bigred1]

I dont really like progressives for rifle ammo. 90% of your work is case prep anyways.
Get yourself a single stage or a turret press. A nice case lathe w/ a 3 way head. Set of cheepo calipers and a decent micrometer (micro is for getting nutz about case wall thickness) and a 10-10 scale.
If you just wanna load .308 and wanna chase nats **s accuracy then dont buy a kit. Just buy the necessary equipment.

[NorCalFocus]

1) Without any knowledge other than youtube and reading, is it possible for someone to do this without a mentor safely?

2) How much are you in reality saving per rd? When should I expect to have the equipment pay for itself?

3) I know must target/bench shooters prefer handloads ( I think) would a progressive also be a good choice?

1. As long as you take your time, use common sense, and educate yourself, you'll be fine.

2. I'm loading for about $0.35 a round. How long before you pay it off depends on how much you shoot. I started to save money and make better than factory loads. But I never went into it thinking at this point I'm in the black.

3. As the others stated, single stage all the way. I have the Lee kit and it got me 80% of what I needed/wanted to get going. Get a good electronic scale, trickle each one of your charges and that will kill the biggest room for error from factory loads.

[bubbala]

the lee classic is great. i have one in 223. you can take it to the range and work up loads with it. the scoops are a little limiting but serviceable.


i would however avoid electronic scales especially the inexpensive ones that are so tempting.

google electronic scales and their limitations.

a good beam scale will last forever and be accurate time after time.