Caldwell lead sled for mounting scope?

[CK_32]

Can you point me to a rifle leveler? Those that I've found looks like bubble levelers, which is useful and I plan to get those, but what I need is something to hold the rifle while I level it. And since I also need to sight in the scope after I've mounted the scope, I thought maybe I should get a lead sled which I can use like a gun vice when leveling the rifle for scope mounting, then haul it to the range and use it as a rest to sight in the scope.

Thanks.

My local shops use a gun vice or just a standard vice rigged to hold alignment but be easily adjusted. I just used my bipod and rear bag. Locked the bipod in place over the rear bag, and tapped it until level. Then locked it in place. Centered the scope, then mounted it. Again I think your just thinking way too much into it. 1 degree of can't isn't going to kill you on a plinking rig.

Google Search to show you what rigs other people use. Click the "videos"tab

[CK_32]

Not only that, a front rest and rear bag allows you to shoot the gun using proper bench technique and better results. I know LeadSleds are popular but they are totally unnecessary. The zero you get with a sled will be completely different from you holding the gun so what's the point?

Explain?


I was planning on picking up a lead sled for load development but had a huntch of what you just said and would alter the results and make them useless. Lead sled for load development not a good idea? I just want to take my self out of the equation. I know I pulled more than a few shots dialing in my 700. I want to be spot on for my LR308 "comp/plink gun". I wasted so many tests and supplies doing my 700 with pulled shots. I lose focus after like the 28th round fired in slow succession.

[russ69]

Explain?...

It would take pages to explain it all but basically shooting from a bag allows the rifle to recoil in a manner that is best for good results.

[Mr Blu]

I'm a little late to the discussion, and somewhat off topic, but I'm talking with someone about leveling/not leveling your rifle before leveling your scope and why.

Here are some quotes from the person who says you do NOT need to level your rifle and that some pro shooters even "cant" their rifle because the feel makes it shoot better.

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1) Only the scope must really be level....AND you can do it more effectively with a plumb line. Finally, if you are not using some anti-cant device on the scope after all this....things start to get sloppy after 500 yds.

2) You are misinformed.

As I said, only the scope reticle has to be plumb with gravity, not necessarily the rifle because gravity is one of the things you are correcting with in the scope. Many top shooters cant the rifle under the scope to reflect personal preference or because it "just feels right". As long as that scope is level, your elevation and windage corrections will work as designed regardless if the rifle is canted underneath it. If the scope is canted, your elevation and windage corrections will introduce errors in both elevation and windage.

3) The bore of the scope should be aligned with the bore of the rifle although there is very little you can do about that if the rail or the ring screw holes are mounted cockeyed. You would have to re-drill the holes or have the mount reattached.

After that, the scope is all that is required to be level with the horizon (gravity). It does not have to be level with the top of the gun.....that is the gun can be rotated clockwise or counter clockwise in the rings to suit your preference. This is done by some of the best shooters out there to suit personal preference or how the gun fits to the shoulder. When it is time to shoot, the scope has to be level as all your windage and bullet drops dialed into the scope assume the crosshairs are parallel and perpendicular to gravity. Shooting with the corsshairs canted will begin to introduce errors in both windage and elevation and becomes very noticeable when you are shooting longer distances and/or at smaller targets.

Also, the scope can be tilted from front to back in the rings. My scope base on the AR10 has a 20moa tilt to allow me to shoot the .308 to 1000 yds. More or less tilt is required depending on how many MOA or MIL of internal adjustment your scope has.

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The way I look at it, leveling the rifle is like building a proper foundation for a house. If the foundation is off, you have to make corrections in the framework, taking away accuracy of the build as a whole.

Another way I put it is like a wheel alignment for your car.

The front wheels (scope) may be aligned to the rear wheels (rifle), but if the rear wheels aren't aligned to the frame (gravity), you end up with a car (rifle) that won't drive (shoot) well and thus waste gas and tires (ammo and accuracy) in the process.

If I'm off on la la land, please explain why. I'm always ready for learning more about firearms.

[smalltime]

Rifle on sandbags, scope rings still lose, close your eyes and shoulder the rifle. Get your cheek weld and rifle in natural position. Open your eyes, adjust scope for eye relief, repeat until eye relief is correct when you open your eyes.

Hang plumb-bob and rotate scope until reticle lines up while rifle is in your natural position as if you were shooting. Torque rings, separate upper, remove BCG, bore sight @ 50 yds.