Private Party Transfer…What is Your Safe Procedure?...

[sandiegojoe]

[SNCaliber]

I usually meet the guy at the gun store, walk in with everything, inspect it at the counter (I asked the gun store employee if that is alright), and start the PPT paperwork, the private $$ transaction has nothing to do with the gun store minus the PPT fee, I usually do the $ transaction while the guy is processing the PPT paperwork.

[dieselpower]

1) Ask the transferring FFL if the gun you intend to buy is OK with him.
2) Ask the FFL if its ok to have both you and the seller meet INSIDE his shop so you can inspect the firearm before the transfer.
3) Ask the FFL if its ok with him that you hand the money over to the seller at his counter...this seems dumb to me, but I have been asked to leave a store for doing this?????
4) Relay all that info to the buyer.

The biggest mistake people make is NOT TALKING TO THE FFL FIRST.

[den888]

I always meet at a gun shop. I always have the buyer confirm the appointment with me (via phone call) about two hours before the transaction and I restate the transaction details (place, price, time, etc) to make sure that there are no misunderstandings.

[67goat]

If possible, I like to meet at an FFL with a range so I can go through a magazine first (of ammo I provide myself).

[nothinghere2c]

last one I did we met at the gun shop (he called ahead to ask about ppt), shook hands, went inside, inspected the item, agreed to the deal, handed him cash, and we filled out the paperwork like adults.

you can kind of tell a shady person right off the bat when you introduce yourself and shake their hand.

[StephanieLynn]

I've done a few PPT's lately, and as a female have additional safety concerns as you might imagine. Here's what I do.

1). It helps if you do your PPT's at a shop where they know you. If the seller suggests one where he/she is a regular, that's good too. You just don't want to walk in cold to a shop neither of you have been in before and hope that their policies and procedures will work for your transfer. Some shops restrict hours and days for PPTs, and others are afraid of EBR's and anything unusual and get up in your grill.

2). Always conduct business in the store, never in the parking lot or out of the trunk of a car. This is where being a familiar customer comes in handy.

3). Get there before the seller and wait. That way you can discuss why you are there with the guys at the shop, and tell them what is coming in.

4). Ask the seller to bring a lock for the firearm if they have it - especially if it came with one! That way you won't have to buy a lock from the transfer dealer! Also, if the sale of the firearm includes mag rebuild kits, be sure to tell the seller to completely disassemble them and put the parts in a zip-lock bag for you - to be handed over to you directly.

5). The counterperson will want to inspect the firearm when the seller walks in with it. After they have inspected it and are sure it is unloaded and safe, they will usually leave you alone with the seller to inspect it. Most shops have done PPT's a few times and know the drill. Take a look at it, inspect it to your satisfaction and ask the seller any questions you may have or that may have arisen upon inspection.

6). Once you are satisfied that you wish to make the purchase, signal the counterperson that you are ready to proceed. You'll need your CDL, proof of residency (car registration works well especially since most everyone keeps it in their car so you always have it), and for a handgun your HSC card.

7). After you have inspected the firearm, are satisfied that it is as advertised, and wish to make the purchase, hand the seller payment in cash (I always get large bills from the bank) and do so discreetly. The shop knows why you're there and what you're doing, but there is no need to rub their nose in it. Wait until the counterperson steps away with your ID and the seller's ID, and hand them payment. You may get an envelope from the bank for the cash to aid in the discrete payment.

8). Before the dealer takes the firearm away, remove anything they don't need. I always take any extra mags, owner's manual, tools, and any other paperwork. That way I have 10 days to peruse the manual and familiarize myself with the operation of my new toy! All they need to keep is the firearm itself and one magazine. Technically, they only need the receiver, but I trust my dealers and leave the whole thing.

9). The transfer dealer will usually finish with the seller's ID and their part in the transaction before you and dismiss them. In most cases they'll then leave the shop.

10). I usually pay the transfer dealer their $35.00 in cash. I'm not sure it makes a difference, but if you use a card, they are charged a fee for the convenience on that $10.00 they got from you for the PPT, so every little bit counts.

11). Make sure you get a copy of the paperwork and are clear on your pickup day and time. Many dealers now will give you a pickup date eleven days later to ensure there is no error in the time of pickup. Dealers have told me that people often come in early on the 10th day and it starts a fight, so they hedge their bets and quote 11 days.

12). Before leaving I always ask about buying some accessory or ammo to make it worth their while. Shops are necessarily doing a lot of PPT's these days and it takes a counter person away from their own sales for a paltry $10they make for a PPT. Buy some ammo or a magazine or a silicone cloth or something. They'll appreciate it and will remember you if you're not a regular customer there.

Hope this helps. Good luck!
; )

[retiredAFcop]

12). Before leaving I always ask about buying some accessory or ammo to make it worth their while. Shops are necessarily doing a lot of PPT's these days and it takes a counter person away from their own sales for a paltry $10they make for a PPT. Buy some ammo or a magazine or a silicone cloth or something. They'll appreciate it and will remember you if you're not a regular customer there.

This is a good point.

If the buyer picks up a magazine, ammo, a bag for their new gun, or some other accessory, it makes the PPT a lot nicer for the FFL.

If the seller turns around and hands the cash to the FFL for a new gun from them, it makes the FFL even happier.

[calif 15-22]

As the buyer or seller ALWAYS as the Clerk at the gun store to "safety check / clear the firearm" before the gun is taken out of the case or bag. It is for your safety and theirs. Most FFl will frown if you just open the container and start handling the firearm before it is cleared by the clerk

[Pablo5959]

The old lock is not going to work. When you pick up the gun you will need a new lock with a receipt less then 30 days old.

[jallen58]

some ffl's wont let you exchange money in the store I tried once and they said not in here so we stepped out to the parking and I gave him the money

[keenkeen]

The old lock is not going to work. When you pick up the gun you will need a new lock with a receipt less then 30 days old.

Depends on the FFL, a lot of them will allow you to use the lock that came with the gun if it is still in the case.

Not always, but it is worth a shot.

[lakersandguns]

Asking the FFL if you can pay the other party inside is key. Had a guy hand me the money inside the store, ffl guy wasnt happy.

[Shackletown]

Usually some random parking lot away from my house with my ccw and another buddy, hand him gun, he hands me money we part ways happy. Oh wait... what forum am I on? Utah guns? Silly me...


Seriously though, I feel bad for you guys...

Sent via S3

[bkk6869]

This is a good point.

If the buyer picks up a magazine, ammo, a bag for their new gun, or some other accessory, it makes the PPT a lot nicer for the FFL.

If the seller turns around and hands the cash to the FFL for a new gun from them, it makes the FFL even happier.

most definitely. my last ppt was a large one. one AR and a handgun to me, and my AR to the guy i traded to. while i was there i ended up buying a marlin bolt action .22 and a cricket for my boys. went in to spend about 60 for fees and ended up spending 300. they were happyl.