Reloading help

[natew]

I'm a reloading newbie I would like to load my 38+p cases. I have been loading 357 with alliant 2400 powder and rainer 158gr plated flat point. What powder charge is good for the +p case?

Should I just get rid of the +p cases and use only 357 with less powder?

Is there anybody in the Temecula area that would come over and help me dial in my lee loadmaster? I can get it to work with single case but when I use multiple cases it doesn't work properly. Also it is setting primers in sideways about 10% of the time.

[CK_32]

Tag for interest.

Also going to start loading 357/38.

[Divernhunter]

I just download my 357 brass. Same with 44mag and 454Casull. I use Unique usually for those loads. I also use H-110 for mag loads only.

[Anti-Hero]

I'm a reloading newbie I would like to load my 38+p cases. I have been loading 357 with alliant 2400 powder and rainer 158gr plated flat point. What powder charge is good for the +p case?

Should I just get rid of the +p cases and use only 357 with less powder?

Is there anybody in the Temecula area that would come over and help me dial in my lee loadmaster? I can get it to work with single case but when I use multiple cases it doesn't work properly. Also it is setting primers in sideways about 10% of the time.

May want to have this moved, or ask the question in the reloading sub forum.

[tankerman]

OP - Which reloading manuals are you using?

[mlazarus5388]

In regards to reloading the cases, the only reason to use the 38 special, +p case is if you are shooting a 38 special. If you can already load the 357 cases to a charge you like, or want to down load to a more gentle charge, I would suggest you move ahead with that. You will eliminate the burn ring in the cylinder by using the 357 case, that would otherwise develop with the shorter 38 special case.
Regarding the loadmaster, I must say that the lee loadmaster is the most underrated re-loader I've encountered. I love mine but the primer system must be properly set up, clean and smooth. Additionally, I use a re-sizing die in the primer station. I have not had any problems using this set up. I also added a bullet feeder die from RCBS and got extra plastic tubing for the bullets. I load on the loadmaster almost as fast as my Dillion 650 with case and bullet feeder.
Mike

[tankerman]

One thing you need to remember is that plated bullets are not constructed for high pressure or high velocity.

Plating can come off, bullets can fly apart.

[CK_32]

Wait I have a question so if your reloading for 357 but want a light 38 found toucan just down arts a 357 case to avoid burn rings in the cypander?

I thought 38 did nothing to a 357 are burn rings anything to worry about?

[natew]

I used info i found on the net, it may have even been on this site. I was buying 100 count 38+p at walmart for $36. The 50 count 357 was $27. Now I have the reloader and tested my loads yesterday. Lots of muzzle flash. Very small amount of powder in the barrel after 75 rounds.

I will just save my 38 brass in case I buy a 38. I'm using around 14gr 2400 now. How much less powder is safe for a light load?

Does anybody have any tips for the primer load in my press? Any modification I can do to make it work better? I'm using the default setup with factory crimp in #5 position.

What should I use to extract the sideways primers from the cases? Won't they blow up if I pry them out?

[MIAMIbaseballer]

I'm a reloading newbie I would like to load my 38+p cases. I have been loading 357 with alliant 2400 powder and rainer 158gr plated flat point. What powder charge is good for the +p case?

Should I just get rid of the +p cases and use only 357 with less powder?

Is there anybody in the Temecula area that would come over and help me dial in my lee loadmaster? I can get it to work with single case but when I use multiple cases it doesn't work properly. Also it is setting primers in sideways about 10% of the time.

First of all, a regular case and a "+p" stamped case are the exact same in strength. The only reason it's labeled "+p" is so that you know it's a hotter round from the factory.

Second, I'm confused as to why you want to load 38+p when you are loading 357. 38+p and 357 are basically the same. If you want a lighter load then go with a 38 powder charge.

[MIAMIbaseballer]

I used info i found on the net, it may have even been on this site. I was buying 100 count 38+p at walmart for $36. The 50 count 357 was $27. Now I have the reloader and tested my loads yesterday. Lots of muzzle flash. Very small amount of powder in the barrel after 75 rounds.

I will just save my 38 brass in case I buy a 38. I'm using around 14gr 2400 now. How much less powder is safe for a light load?

Does anybody have any tips for the primer load in my press? Any modification I can do to make it work better? I'm using the default setup with factory crimp in #5 position.

What should I use to extract the sideways primers from the cases? Won't they blow up if I pry them out?

Use a powder that's less flashy if it bothers you.

Don't you have a reloading manual? It's tough to just tell you how much powder to use when not knowing various important factors mainly what gun your using....

the suggested starting load is 10.6 for the bullet you're using. You are loading to the published MAX.... FYI

[natew]

The guide off Alliant Powder website says 14.8 max. I went 1 step down from that. I have 686-1 6" that's pretty beefy. I checked the bullets again and they are Rainer leadsafe total copper jacketed flat nose 158gr.

I was interested in loading the 38+p because I have a bunch of them. I notice rings in the cylinder with 38 and 357. I realized I'd have to readjust the die for the 38 and I have them good now. I think I'll pass on loading the 38.

Time to start buying up used 357 brass.

[MIAMIbaseballer]

The guide off Alliant Powder website says 14.8 max. I went 1 step down from that. I have 686-1 6" that's pretty beefy. I checked the bullets again and they are Rainer leadsafe total copper jacketed flat nose 158gr.

I was interested in loading the 38+p because I have a bunch of them. I notice rings in the cylinder with 38 and 357. I realized I'd have to readjust the die for the 38 and I have them good now. I think I'll pass on loading the 38.

Time to start buying up used 357 brass.

My manual says 14... They all vary a little, but you are loading about 40% more powder than the minimum charge. So it's up to you what this ammo will be used for and the training you're trying to accomplish. Be careful with plated bullets as you can not push them as fast as fmj.

[Shoot-it]

You need a reloading book so you can look up loads that's a must.

Divernhunter I just download my 357 brass. Same with 44mag and 454Casull. I use Unique usually for those loads. I also use H-110 for mag loads only.

This guy knows what he is talking about use his help.