Duracoat: Would you recommend using reducer?

[Army]

Grinder, the key is to fully prep the surface you will be coating. If any finish is left on the barrel, the DC will not take correctly. It's more likely the oil in the phosphate finish burning off under the DC.

Plastic, wood, and other metal is the same. Absolute removal of all oils, grease, and current finishes/paint/coatings. Then a roughing of the surface to give the DC something to grab onto. Metal parts should ideally be bead-blasted prior to covering.

A smooth, even spray of DC will decrease if not eliminate chipping or flaking. My rifle in the other post has zero chips or flakes, but lots of dents from falling off my tailgate twice. The DC was not broken.

[Deadbolt]

Grinder, the key is to fully prep the surface you will be coating. If any finish is left on the barrel, the DC will not take correctly. It's more likely the oil in the phosphate finish burning off under the DC.

Plastic, wood, and other metal is the same. Absolute removal of all oils, grease, and current finishes/paint/coatings. Then a roughing of the surface to give the DC something to grab onto. Metal parts should ideally be bead-blasted prior to covering.

A smooth, even spray of DC will decrease if not eliminate chipping or flaking. My rifle in the other post has zero chips or flakes, but lots of dents from falling off my tailgate twice. The DC was not broken.

best advice.

paint, especially non-home related, is 98% prep, 1% skill , 1% luck.

prep is time consuming and really makes or breaks a simple project like 1 color matte

[driveljay]

1. Prep is key
2. Reducer not needed, use a DC clear coat of your choice to even out the finish.