M-Pro 7: Are their products any good?

[909 in 916]

When I was out shopping for cleaning products, one of the items I was going to get was M-Pro 7 CLP but the guy behind the counter who had vast knowledge of shotguns, according the his conversation with the guy in front of me, said it was a relatively new product and he hadn't had any experience with it. I ended up going with Hoppes stuff, which most of the people here can agree is a pretty good product. In any case, i'm not too terribly thrilled with Hoppes #9 Dri-Lube.....when it dries it leaves behind a white layer of lubrication which is dry to the touch but pretty hard to get off of places where you don't want it.

Is M-Pro 7 a good brand?

[bobfried]

I do not use their CLP line, for lubrication I use Royal Purple 10w30 automotive synthetic oil.

But for everything else, which is of course cleaning, I use their product, I switched over exclusively using nothing but M-Pro7 cleaning product simply because it worked. Beside the fact that it's non-toxic, biodegradable and all the other good stuff, it just cleans really well. It cuts carbon better than anything short of brake cleaner. It also happen to be a relatively mild detergent that can be used on any plastic or wood. Some of the best gunsmiths in the US I know of uses M-PRO7 cleaner in a giant vat to clean everything. If they can dunk a $8,000 Luger into it I have no problem using it on my firearms.

- Brake cleaner when I really want to clean the hell out of it
- M-PRO7 cleaner for the other 99.9% of the time
- Royal Purple 10w30 motor oil for lubrication

And I will use a copper remover for the bore every few years.

[909 in 916]

I do not use their CLP line, for lubrication I use Royal Purple 10w30 automotive synthetic oil.

But for everything else, which is of course cleaning, I use their product, I switched over exclusively using nothing but M-Pro7 cleaning product simply because it worked. Beside the fact that it's non-toxic, biodegradable and all the other good stuff, it just cleans really well. It cuts carbon better than anything short of brake cleaner. It also happen to be a relatively mild detergent that can be used on any plastic or wood. Some of the best gunsmiths in the US I know of uses M-PRO7 cleaner in a giant vat to clean everything. If they can dunk a $8,000 Luger into it I have no problem using it on my firearms.

- Brake cleaner when I really want to clean the hell out of it
- M-PRO7 cleaner for the other 99.9% of the time
- Royal Purple 10w30 motor oil for lubrication

And I will use a copper remover for the bore every few years.

Sweet, I have a quart of RP leftover.....I've switched to Mobil1 Synthetic for availability reasons.

I've heard the M-PRO 7 stuff doesn't smell much either, agreed?

[bobfried]

I can eat dinner while cleaning my gun, try doing that with CLP.

[1911su16b870]

Yes the M-Pro 7 cleaner and bore gell are very good. I also like the Otis bore product which appears to be similar.

[supersonic]

MPRO7 is an EXACT copy of Hoppe's Elite series. In fact, after you realize they both smell identical, look carefully on the labels. BOTH are manufactured by Pantheon Chemical. I just prefer the original in the gold bottles-best stuff in the world for your firearms. Period.

[CRTguns]

I know the answer...

Mpro and hoppes elite are both a chemical reproduction of the active compounds in Simple Green... truth. My buddy owns a chemical supply/mfg company- he can reverse engineer a formula with some fancy machines he has... He showed me that if you take all the H2o out of simple green, and replace it with glycol... a hydrophobic non-VOC solvent, you get Mpro7. The idea behind the effectiveness of the stuff (SG or Mpro, is that they are surfactants (soap) not solvents. A solvent will work on a limited range of materials... a surfactant can do its thing on any surface, and remove any material deposits- not by disolving them, but by breaking the bonds that hold the dissimilar materials together (fouling, etc...)

[909 in 916]

I can eat dinner while cleaning my gun, try doing that with CLP.

Haha, no thanks. Point made.

MPRO7 is an EXACT copy of Hoppe's Elite series. In fact - best stuff in the world for your firearms. Period.

Sweet. Then once I go through my Hoppe's 9 semi-auto solvent, I'll pick some up. That solvent is some strong smelling stuff.

Mpro and hoppes elite are both a chemical reproduction of the active compounds in Simple Green... truth. My buddy owns a chemical supply/mfg company- he can reverse engineer a formula with some fancy machines he has... He showed me that if you take all the H2o out of simple green, and replace it with glycol... a hydrophobic non-VOC solvent, you get Mpro7. The idea behind the effectiveness of the stuff (SG or Mpro, is that they are surfactants (soap) not solvents. A solvent will work on a limited range of materials... a surfactant can do its thing on any surface, and remove any material deposits- not by disolving them, but by breaking the bonds that hold the dissimilar materials together (fouling, etc...)

Good info

[aileron]

Super green actually works really well for cleaning.

I have been using it a lot for cleaning guns after shooting. I lube with CLP or M-Pro 7 or some other gun oil I still have laying around.

But I normally just spray super green all over the disassembled gun and scrub it down with an old tooth brush, it comes out really clean. I buy super green in the gallon jugs and refill the super green sprayer bottle I bought first when it gets low. Have never looked back.

I am now interested in using a synthetic motor oil to lube it. Where did you guys figure that out??? Why royal purple???

[supersonic]

CRT is probably the most knowledgeable firearms guy in PRK!!!!!!!!!!! there's pretty much nothing in this field he DOESN'T know!!!!!!

[909 in 916]

Super green actually works really well for cleaning.

I have been using it a lot for cleaning guns after shooting. I lube with CLP or M-Pro 7 or some other gun oil I still have laying around.

But I normally just spray super green all over the disassembled gun and scrub it down with an old tooth brush, it comes out really clean. I buy super green in the gallon jugs and refill the super green sprayer bottle I bought first when it gets low. Have never looked back.

I am now interested in using a synthetic motor oil to lube it. Where did you guys figure that out??? Why royal purple???

Do you mean Simple Green?

All I know about RP is that it has superior lubrication properties to most, if not all, motor oils. It's supposed to bond to metal and provide unheard of lubrication and protection abilities.

[aileron]

Do you mean Simple Green?

All I know about RP is that it has superior lubrication properties to most, if not all, motor oils. It's supposed to bond to metal and provide unheard of lubrication and protection abilities.

, yup, simple green... LOL super green.

[909 in 916]

, yup, simple green... LOL super green.

what dilution ratio do you use?

[ghostwong]

Ok Here's a question . . .

After shooting anywheres from 5-8 guns. I break down the guns to barrels, links, striker, springs, bushing, guide rods and a whole lot of parts.

So can I soak all these parts in Simple Green, straight or do I neeed to dilute the mixture?

I normally use Hoppe's and soak everything overnight in a sealed glass container. (I get headaches from the fumes, I wear latex gloves to clean the parts. Yes, I do work in a very well ventialted area. Then I drop the glass container in an ultrsonic cleaner and let it run for a few minutes, 15 minutes for so.

Will the Simple Green stuff cut my cleaning time? and what effects will it have on the metal parts? I remember Hoppe's a oil based product, and the Simple Green stuff as a water base product.

Water and air = rust!?!?

Thanks for the input!

[aileron]

what dilution ratio do you use?

Don't even think much about it, just fill up the bottle to a little past half way, and add water. No biggie.

I've even done full concentrate. No difference from my perspective.

All I do is grab a plastic tub

After shooting break the guns down and throw the parts in there, and spray them with the simple green. Then I proceed to clean them barehanded with a tooth brush. Sometimes I wear gloves.

Now here is the scary part. I swear I was skeptical myself, but it does work. You rinse it in water.

Yup, you heard me water. I then proceed to dry them with an air hose, pat them down and make absolutely sure there is no, I repeat, no water in them before I proceed to oil all the parts. Let them sit for awhile (under heat lamps or the sun) if your not sure, like a few hours.

I use another tooth brush and oil it up and then proceed to liberally oil them. Then I put the gun back together and wipe it down, so its not super oily. Also I liberally spray both tooth brushes and they come out sparkling clean. Simple green is amazing.

I got this process from the AGI videos and it was soo much better and faster then the old way, I never looked back.

AGI videos for those that don't know.

http://www.americangunsmith.com/

Hope I answered both your guys questions above.

EDIT: I take off the grips so I can clean the frames, I was really nervous about water getting trapped in the frames and springs but after shooting them with the air hose for a bit, I couldn't get any more water to come out so was confident I wouldn't see tons of rust a year later. So far no problems. Guns come out really clean.