Reloading .223

[Jicko]

Any good links for "how to reload" for rifle/.223?

I "reload" 9mm, and I do have a RL550B... I have all the stuff that is needed to reload my 9s....


1) Now, what do I need to get before start reloading .223?

2) What's the difference in process between reloading a handgun round and a rifle round?

[bwiese]

There is a pretty good article in a magazine that's still on the stands - "Book of the AR15", which I think is published by Guns & Ammo. They seem to come out with this every year or half-year. You might be able to find it at a smokeshop/newstand or still some at Barnes & Noble or Borders - the latter is where I got mine.

Towards the last 1/3 of the magazine there's a 4-5 page article on reloading 223, with focus on ARs/autoloaders.

Real important:
- full-length size, not neck size;
- watch/inspect primer seating - high primers are DANGEROUS.
- use a crimp to avoid dangerous bullet-setback issues...

[Jicko]

Do I have to trim the case before reloading? Do I have to apply lubrication to the case? (These don't need to be done with my 9mm carbide sizing die)

ie. any additional steps other than:
1) pick up used brass
2) tumble clean them
3) ??
4) start reloading - size/deprime
5) fill powder
6) seat bullet
7) crimp
8) inspect each round, and check in case guage

[berg]

Just remember if you are reloading for a semi-auto rifle you need to get small base a.k.a. full length reloading dies. It's dangerous to only neck size cases for semi-auto rifles.

Also be aware that you can't reload cases very many times for a semi rifle.

Read through this and the link at the bottom for more tips. It applies to .223 as well. http://www.dragunov.net/reloading.htm

[delloro]

...small base a.k.a. full length reloading dies....

actually small-base dies are a type of full-length sizing dies.

[Fjold]

For your RL550B you will need:

223 reloading dies - full length resizing die and bullet seating die

The Dillon 22 caliber powder through die insert.

I don't know the rim size for the 9mm (I don't load mouse guns) but you'll need the #3 shell plate for the 223.

You already have it set up for small primers so it's just adjust the powder measure, install the parts listed above and go.

[TonyM]

Also, any military brass will most likely have crimped primers that need to be taken care of before you can use the cases.

I reload multiple pistol calibers, and have been thinking about loading 5.56/.223 with the prices of good ammo going up, but with all the extra steps and all of my existing brass is M193 / M855 / Q3131A, so I would have to get a swage or upgrade from an XL 650 to a Super 1050....

Then there's the issue of having to use case lube, I hate case lube. The price of the caliber conversion for my 650, good dies and the casefeed plate is about the same as 2 cases of XM193, not to mention I would probably buy Dillons $$$ Case Trimmer that takes up a spot on the tool head... Then I'd have to buy another conversion setup for .308.... So I'm still holding off on loading for rifles.

[Fjold]

Then there's the issue of having to use case lube, I hate case lube.

I use Hornady one shot spray lube. Give a rack of cases a spray from two sides at a 45 degree angle so that the lube goes into the case mouth and let it sit for two minutes. The spray dries to a wax in two minutes and will not hurt primers or powder after that.

[ocabj]

I use a small base full length resizing die for .223 because I've got a few Colts with tight match chambers. Small base resizing dies will wear out brass faster, but it's a small price to pay for reliability. Considering 223 brass is pretty easy to come by, faster brass wear isn't too much of a concern.

My procedures for military brass.

1. Deprime brass with Lee universal decapper (the Lee universal is far better than the RCBS universal).

2. Tumble brass.

3. Swage and uniform primer pockets.

4. Full length resize brass.

5. Trim brass.

6. Debur/chamfer necks.

7. Tumble brass.

8. Clean flash holes.

9. Prime brass.

Ready to load.

I'm using RCBS dies right now, but I'd get the Reddings if I were going to buy a new 3-die set. Might also be a good idea to go with an S-Type Redding sizer that uses bushings to get extra neck tension where crimping on non-cannelure bullets may be desired.

I use the RCBS swaging kit. It works for the most part. But I'd recommend the Dillon swager. It's twice as much as the the RCBS, but arguably twice as better (if not more).

[ocabj]

Then there's the issue of having to use case lube, I hate case lube. The price of the caliber conversion for my 650, good dies and the casefeed plate is about the same as 2 cases of XM193, not to mention I would probably buy Dillons $$$ Case Trimmer that takes up a spot on the tool head... Then I'd have to buy another conversion setup for .308.... So I'm still holding off on loading for rifles.

I like Imperial die wax. Not messy. Easy to use. A little goes a long way. A tin lasts a long time.

You could get a used single stage. I mostly load on a RCBS Rockchucker. When I decide to load pistol I use my Redding T-7 turret.

[phish]

You'll need Varget, lots and lots of Varget.

[Pablo]

These are good places where you can learn and ask questions...

http://forums.accuratereloading.com/groupee/forums/a/cfrm/f/7211043

http://www.reloadbench.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/Ultimate.cgi

[-hanko]

Just remember if you are reloading for a semi-auto rifle you need to get small base a.k.a. full length reloading dies. It's dangerous to only neck size cases for semi-auto rifles.

Also be aware that you can't reload cases very many times for a semi rifle.
[/url]

If you're shooting your reloads in your rifle, full length resizing is not necessary; adjust your resizing die until a resized round chambers comfortably in your rifle; there will be a difference between what you need for a nato v. 'match' chamber.

As someone has already posted, a major reason for cartridge failure is excessive resizing. An rcbs 'x-die' does a nice job of controlling brass growth, but you start by trimming your brass around 20-thou less than maximum case length (which, iirc, is 1.75").

If you've not reloaded bottleneck cartridges, get someone who has to show you how...it's a lot different than straight walled pistol cartridges. If you're loading blasting ammo, surplus bullets & powder are available, and you can same some money.

-hanko

[fal_762x51]

If no one mentioned this: remember when reloading military brass to use reduced loads, the mil brass is thicker then commercial.