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Rattlecan or Duracoat?

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  • GettoPhilosopher
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2010
    • 1814

    Rattlecan or Duracoat?

    Alright, I've been searching for about half an hour now and I've yet to find a solid tutorial on how to rattlecan a gun so that it DOESNT scratch right off immediately.

    I'm thinking of doing a rattlecan job on some converted S12 parts. An ACE 7.5 stock, possibly a dust cover and/or a Chaos trirail. Can anyone link me to (or recommend) a good tutorial on how to prepare/paint/bake/whatever metal parts so they stay painted?

    Or should I just go with a Duracoat shake and spray kit or something? I don't have any air compressors/sprayers/etc. Any baking I did would have to be in an aluminum pan in either my oven or my BBQ.
    Last edited by GettoPhilosopher; 06-07-2011, 8:30 PM.
  • #2
    wilit
    Calguns Addict
    • Dec 2005
    • 5211

    I just got my airbrush setup for under $25 to Duracoat a bunch of stuff I have. I got away cheap, because I already have a compressor, but all you need extra is the propellant and regulator.

    Airbrush (HF copy of a Badger 155 Anthem) - $14.99
    Airbrush hose - $8.99
    Propellant - $9.69
    Regulator - $8.69
    "If a man hasn't found something worth dying for, he isn't fit to live." - Martin Luther King Jr.
    "Those who would give up Essential Liberty to purchase a little Temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." - Benjamin Franklin
    "You have to be willing to swing your nuts like a deadblow hammer to put these jackasses in their place." - AJAX22
    "The best defense against usurpatory government is an assertive citizenry." - William F Buckley Jr.
    sigpic

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    • #3
      Confusion
      Junior Member
      • Jun 2011
      • 77

      I have a compressor and an airbrush (a Paasche, in a box somewhere) however I have a tiny apartment and cannot really use it here. I am willing to loan them out to folks who want to come to Glendale and pick them up.
      --
      I am not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.

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      • #4
        Army
        Veteran Member
        • Oct 2005
        • 3915

        Do what you can to Duracoat it. You'll be happier in the long run, and your gun will not look like crap in two weeks.
        "A nation can survive its fools, and even the ambitious. But it cannot survive treason from within. An enemy at the gates is less formidable, for he is known and carries his banner openly. But the traitor moves amongst those within the gate freely, his sly whispers rustling through all the alleys, heard in the very halls of government itself...A murderer is less to fear. The traitor is the plague."......Cicero

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        • #5
          Full Clip
          I need a LIFE!!
          • Dec 2006
          • 10263

          I've used Ceramacoat on a couple Enfields. and SKSs. Spraycan and bake-on. No compressor/airbrush needed. The finish is holding up pretty well this far.
          Duracoat here as well...

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          • #6
            rareair
            Senior Member
            • Jul 2010
            • 1898

            If DuraCoating S/S or Chrome-moly, DuraCoat recommends light blasting with Aluminum Oxide

            If painting plastic or Aluminum, you can use a scouring pad to rough up the surface.

            Here's my SIG Mosquito I just DuraCoated using a HVLP gun. Since the frame is polymer, I just used the aforementioned scouring pad to prep the surface.

            MagPul MPLA
            POF-USA P415-18-11T-223
            TROY M7A1
            & a bunch of SIG pistols and rifles

            **WTB P227 TacOps**

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