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This was an email explanation reponse from my Dad to a guy who was building a k31 Bullpup stock and not doing a very good job on it.
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Ok. Maybe I can give the base dynamics of a bullpup conversion or stock profile. This stock was a badly designed Mini-14 Bullpup Stock from Muzzlite. The trigger pull was mushy and easily 12 to 15 pounds. It was so bad that the entire bullpup would flex a bit when you pulled the trigger. The trigger bar (op-plate) was at an odd angle to the actual trigger surface and altogether, it was just a worthless piece of unuseable plastic junk.
I don't have a picture of it open, but I'll take one when I get time to disasseble the stock. This picture shows the ersatz trigger in relation to the real trigger. The trigger operating plate was of some sort of hard plastic, but it was also a cast one piece with the ersatz trigger. When you pulled to the rear, the op-plate pushed on the trigger, slid up a ways and fired. The op-plate runs right along the very underside of the stock to the rear.
We removed the plastic setup, machined a solid steel op-plate, welded a steel trigger on the front and machined a roller bar system on the back of the plate. The roller bar allowed the Mini-14 trigger to rotate to the rear and up with no resistance at all from the op-plate. (That part is a huge deal)
We machined two longitudinal raceways to inset into the stock on either side where it was previously plain plastic. This allowed the steel op-plate to slide easily to the rear and easily return to a fire position with just the action of the Mini itself. The trigger is now about 6 pounds, which is a useable figure. The less resistance, the lighter the trigger pull, but its very important that the ersatz trigger op-plate (or rod) have as little resistance as possible on the trigger housing, both sides and the rifle trigger's contact point. Its also critical that the op-plate not flex in any way. The top of your ersatz trigger must not be any lower than the rifle's trigger. Your op-plate should be dead center to the rifle's trigger.
On this rifle I cut the entire hokey plastic setup off the carry handle and front tower. I drilled and tapped two steel plates to sandwich the plastic handle. I then drilled and tapped for a short Weaver rail and mounted a Pro-Point sight on it.
I really don't want to go into any detail for a k31 bull-pup stock because we have one of our own planned and it will eventually join the product line.
There actually is a reasonable use for those hokey Muzzlite stocks.
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Ok. Maybe I can give the base dynamics of a bullpup conversion or stock profile. This stock was a badly designed Mini-14 Bullpup Stock from Muzzlite. The trigger pull was mushy and easily 12 to 15 pounds. It was so bad that the entire bullpup would flex a bit when you pulled the trigger. The trigger bar (op-plate) was at an odd angle to the actual trigger surface and altogether, it was just a worthless piece of unuseable plastic junk.
I don't have a picture of it open, but I'll take one when I get time to disasseble the stock. This picture shows the ersatz trigger in relation to the real trigger. The trigger operating plate was of some sort of hard plastic, but it was also a cast one piece with the ersatz trigger. When you pulled to the rear, the op-plate pushed on the trigger, slid up a ways and fired. The op-plate runs right along the very underside of the stock to the rear.
We removed the plastic setup, machined a solid steel op-plate, welded a steel trigger on the front and machined a roller bar system on the back of the plate. The roller bar allowed the Mini-14 trigger to rotate to the rear and up with no resistance at all from the op-plate. (That part is a huge deal)
We machined two longitudinal raceways to inset into the stock on either side where it was previously plain plastic. This allowed the steel op-plate to slide easily to the rear and easily return to a fire position with just the action of the Mini itself. The trigger is now about 6 pounds, which is a useable figure. The less resistance, the lighter the trigger pull, but its very important that the ersatz trigger op-plate (or rod) have as little resistance as possible on the trigger housing, both sides and the rifle trigger's contact point. Its also critical that the op-plate not flex in any way. The top of your ersatz trigger must not be any lower than the rifle's trigger. Your op-plate should be dead center to the rifle's trigger.
On this rifle I cut the entire hokey plastic setup off the carry handle and front tower. I drilled and tapped two steel plates to sandwich the plastic handle. I then drilled and tapped for a short Weaver rail and mounted a Pro-Point sight on it.
I really don't want to go into any detail for a k31 bull-pup stock because we have one of our own planned and it will eventually join the product line.
There actually is a reasonable use for those hokey Muzzlite stocks.
