Blackening Stainless Steel

[Grenal Spark]

So I just happened upon this website:

http://www.robarguns.com/additional_finishes.htm

Now, I was given a rifle that is stainless steel and I just prefer blued rifles (although I want my pistols stainless, go figure).

So I called these guys on the phone and this person I talked to said not only will they make my stainless steel weapon "black", it will even mean I don't need to clean it as thoroughly and just wipe it down once in a while (not including the actual inside of the barrel).

Does ANYONE have any actual experience with this? It's kinda costly, but since it was a gift, it's like getting the rifle I want for a couple hundred bucks. If it actually had a real bonus to it, not just visual, I would be more inclined to do it.

Please share your thoughts.

[metalhead357]

Alumahyde II..... Do it yourself for under $20 and if youend up not liking it you can remove it or change colors..................

[Serpentine]

Have it bead blasted. It's cheap, durable, and comes out a dull non-reflective grey.


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[Grenal Spark]

Okay, I'm doing the Aluma-Hyde II today. We shall see.

Thanks for the heads up.

How many applications do you think I should do? I did one with a couple of coats (I have good spray technique). I'm curing it next to heat for two days. Should I apply a second, third coat? Or, is this gonna work with one?

[bigthaiboy]

Okay, I'm doing the Aluma-Hyde II today. We shall see.

Thanks for the heads up.

How many applications do you think I should do? I did one with a couple of coats (I have good spray technique). I'm curing it next to heat for two days. Should I apply a second, third coat? Or, is this gonna work with one?

Requires air cure at 70+ degrees for 7 to 10 days minimum:

[norcal77]

So I just happened upon this website:

http://www.robarguns.com/additional_finishes.htm

Now, I was given a rifle that is stainless steel and I just prefer blued rifles (although I want my pistols stainless, go figure).

So I called these guys on the phone and this person I talked to said not only will they make my stainless steel weapon "black", it will even mean I don't need to clean it as thoroughly and just wipe it down once in a while (not including the actual inside of the barrel).

Does ANYONE have any actual experience with this? It's kinda costly, but since it was a gift, it's like getting the rifle I want for a couple hundred bucks. If it actually had a real bonus to it, not just visual, I would be more inclined to do it.

Please share your thoughts.

The finish they are referring to is kind of similar to the same finish as a frying pan...basically a non-stick coating. The ones you linked to are not even there premium finish..the NP3 and Roguard are. I've gotten samples of there stuff before and I wasn't impressed...the samples had an orange peel effect. I emailed them about it and never got a response...

I've been looking at this finish myself...the link is a review of the finish. The company doesn't even have a website..they are old school..just the way I like it.

Contact info at the bottom.

http://www.snipercentral.com/birdsong.htm

[Joe]

Okay, I'm doing the Aluma-Hyde II today. We shall see.

Thanks for the heads up.

How many applications do you think I should do? I did one with a couple of coats (I have good spray technique). I'm curing it next to heat for two days. Should I apply a second, third coat? Or, is this gonna work with one?

My 1911 has an Aluma-Hyde II finish. Black slide with OD frame

[Grenal Spark]

Seriously, my question is should I repeat this process a couple times, or is one week good enough?

[Joe]

Paint it following the directions until it is completely covered. Then let it cure for the correct amount of time. Don't repaint it to cover more after you've already let it cure. Cover it completely the first time.

[Grenal Spark]

I guess what my real concern is am I not going to be able to shoot, or use, this weapon for a month? I have a backup 12-gauge, but I'm much more comfortable with the rifle.

[Grenal Spark]

Paint it following the directions until it is completely covered. Then let it cure for the correct amount of time. Don't repaint it to cover more after you've already let it cure. Cover it completely the first time.

Just posted, thanks, I think I'm just going to be out of a rifle for a week.

[Serpentine]

Just posted, thanks, I think I'm just going to be out of a rifle for a week.

You'll be happy with the results in the end, however, if you really "need" it, don't worry about the paint.

.

[bigthaiboy]

Seriously, my question is should I repeat this process a couple times, or is one week good enough?

Did you not watch the Brownells video above? All the info is there. I find 3 to 4 coats is generally enough, but the coats have to be applied within 30 minutes of each other. Then do not assemble. Just leave it to cure for 7 to 10 days minimum. I usually let it cure two weeks before re-assembly.

[TTT]

The low-mount thumb safety on this EMP was blackened by Robar. It's a metal treatment not a coating/plating like Roguard or NP3.

Some stainless steels have only modest rust resistance, blackening will help that.