Kimber/ strong wrist question

[glock23lover]

I have a question in reference to Kimber.

I am purchasing a Kimber Ultra Carry and wanted to learn a few things before I do. I have been reading that there are some folks having problems with Kimber jamming. Some of the info is telling me that the users wrist is not strong enough and on the shorter barrel models this makes it difficult for the slide to come all the way back if your wrist is week of you are not holding it tight enough. Longer barrels don't have this issues.
Also, I have been reading that it takes minimum of 500 rnds to break in a Kimber and this is to allow proper wear. A good lubrication is recommended when cleaning. One should expect feeding problems until it is broken in.

Can someone share some thoughts on this? I have been doing research and Kimber is supposed to be a great product and for the money I would have to agree but if there is issues then I might go with another brand.

I appreciate everyone's responses in advance and thank you.

[Big Jake]

I have a Kimber Ultra Carry II. I have not had any jamming problems with it. The ammo you use is very important. Do not use reloads or Wolf ammo! Use factory fresh ammo and you should not have any problems. Clean it well after you shoot it and it will give you good service!

Good luck!

[JagerTroop]

While I can't confirm the exact number of rounds required for a break in, I can attest to the "limp wrist" issue with shorter barreled 1911s. This is true with most (if not all) shorter barreled 1911s. You must have a firm grip, and not let the pistol throw you around Manhandle that thing, and it should function as intended. Don't be a limpwristed pushover.

I've heard many people say that their 4" 1911s (mainly Kimbers) have feeding issues. One Kimber specifically was sold because of "feeding issues". I fired this pistol, after it was aquired by the new owner, and it functioned just fine. As a test, I fired a few rounds, letting the muzzle flip as I fired. It did, in fact, not go completely into battery a few times. Then, resumed my normal (strong wrist) shooting style, and it functioned flawlessly.

I have a very short barreled 1911. A Para NiteHawg. If I don't stay in complete control of the muzzle flip (aka:limp wristing), it tends to not completely chamber the next round. However, this is an extreme case, as the Para is very short, and finicky when it comes to ammo.

Keep a firm grip, shoot quality ammo (doesn't have to be match ammo, just no junk) and it'll be OK.

[glock23lover]

Thanks for the info.
I will keep these things in mind. I thought only glocks had reload issues?

[9mmepiphany]

I have been doing research and Kimber is supposed to be a great product and for the money I would have to agree but if there is issues then I might go with another brand.

in my experience, great might be a bit generous...i think hit and miss might be more accurate. when they work, they work pretty good; when they don't, not so much so.

i would not recommend the Ultra as a first 1911...actually i wouldn't recommend any 1911 with a slide/barrel less than 4.25" long. you increase the likelihood of reliability issues when you reduce slide mass and recoil spring tunnel length below that. i'm not saying they won't work...i used to carry a Colt OACP w/3.5" bbl...you just need to be aware that they will not be as reliable and will require additional attention

[MAC USMC]

Take a close look at Springfield Armory's 1911 line up. For quality, price, feel, reliability and customer support you can't beat their firearms.

You might consider a USED 1911 for your first one. Just shop around and leave your name and phone number with the gun shops.

I now own a HK .45C model, a Springfield Armory Champion .45 and a Sig 220 .45 and I love them all. BUT, I usually carry the HK since it is the only one which is double-action on the first shot. Use good quality ammo!

[tacster]

i have a kimber pro carry with a 4 inch barrel. it jammed up all the time. i tryed winchester, remmington, wolf and some other expensive kind (i forget the brand), all of which jammed at some point. i was really frustrated for a while, but the manual said the break in period is a few hundred rounds, so i just kept it well lubed, almost too lubed and kept shooting it. i havent had a jam in a long time now. maybe it was the break in period, maybe it was limp wrist problems, and i just got used to the recoil, i am no expert, but its a great gun now that it doesnt jam all the time.

[IGOTDIRT4U]

I have a Kimber Warrior II and an Ultra CDP II. The CDP II is very short with a 3.5" barrel.

I have never had a misfeed issue with the CDP II. And it broke in after a couple of hundred rounds (as to the frame fit).

The Warrior, different story. For the first 400 rounds, it would misfeed (ftf) almost every 5-6 rounds.

Solution? Toss the Kimber mags and get good ones, like Wilson or Tripp Research. Haven't had a problem since. (seriously, I crushed all my Kimber mags because I did not want someone to get ahold of them and use them, only to get themselves injured or killed because of the issues of FTF)

[shovel88ci]

I have 1911s from many different manufacturers. Kimber is by far my favorite of the newly manufactured ones, DO NOT buy one with an external extractor!

The brek in period, oh yes! On all custom built 1911s you must break it in before it will function reliably. A good friend of mine worked for Armond Swenson, he says this:

"You have to fire the gun 500 times without any problems for it to be completely broken in. If you fire 127 rounds flawlessly and it jams on 128, you start all over again. If you fire 498 rounds flawlessly and it malfunctions on 499, you start over at 1."

Kimber isnt exactly a "custom" 1911, but they are tight and must be broken it properly.

And dont limp wrist it!

I hope this helps.