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have any 500 owners ever have this problem The hammer wont cock back. It cocks back a lil but the wheel spins freely. It wont cock back all the way and align the wheel in place for the next shot. I might have to send this to smith and wesson...its not locked so I dont know whats wrong.
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"The California matrix of gun control laws is among the harshest in the nation and are filled with criminal law traps for people of common intelligence who desire to obey the law." - U.S. District Judge Roger T. Benitez -
tried that...hammer still wont come back fully
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Send it back to Smith - they have a good CS policy and service.The way some gunshop clerks spout off, you'd think that they invented gunpowder and the repeating rifle, and sat on the Supreme Court as well.
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Check my current auctions on Gunbroker - user name bigbasscat - see what left California before Roberti-RoosComment
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It may have some grunge under the side plate, causing it to stick, my Model 28 does this once in a while, not locked up, only sticky when pulling the hammer back to rotate the cylinder. I'd pull the side plate off and see if there's anything I could fix (or clean) before sending it out to S&W.Comment
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As a gunsmith who regularly services broken revolvers, new and old, and one who makes new race-ready ICORE and USPSA revolvers, Lots can go wrong with the little clockwork design- moreso with mega recoil.
The hand may be broken. I've heard of it, buet never seen the lock engage under recoil. The MIM made Double Action sear can crack... the rebound assy may be stuck due to a bent pin... I've seen a 500 brake 3 scope mount screws clean off after 4 rounds. I make a habit to warn buyers of 500 revos to not be totally surprised when the thing brakes. Much much higher rate of failures than regular caliber revos.
Whatever it is, SW will fix her for free. You might call them and see if you can get them to flip for a return shipping call tag. It'll save you about $50.Comment
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I have the 4 inch model, and ive experienced similar problems after firing 20 rounds of 500 grain, sometimes the hammer will not cock back manually or when pulling the trigger. Or the cylinder will just not turn, sometimes the ejector rod will jump over the bullet casing. Ive found that letting it cool down for a few minutes seems to do the trick, the amount of force put on this gun is mind boggling to say the least. Always clean your 500 after every trip to the range, especially the cylinder ports.
I have never contacted SW about this trouble as it just irons itself out after a rest.Comment
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Quick question, did you ever spin the cylinder then jerk the gun so it could pop it into place like they do in movies?Comment
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not surprised with the immense pressures this thing undergoes....if it doesn't "fix it's self" then see if S&W will pay for return shipping, otherwise, it might be cheaper to have a gunsmith look at it first...he might fix it for cheap, or it might need to be returned, either way you'll know for sure.sigpic
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕComment
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Interesting, my friends has the same problem with his S&W .500. I will check in with him to see if h has tried to fix it.Comment
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"Do these problems occur with the S&W 460 also. I don't have one, but just wondering. Thanks."
x2 , I own a 460 xvr and would am curious to know the answer the that query as well.Comment
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Try pressing the cylinder release all the way to the rear, and see if you can then cock the hammer. If so, either some grit was keeping it from moving all the way back (which blocks the hammer), or the springloaded center pin going through the cylinder got peened over on the front edge under heavy recoil (this happened to my 629 Mountain Revolver, twice).
Edit: On second thought, the 500 has ball detent lockup so the center pin wouldn't get peened over under recoil. It is still possible that something got bent and is keeping it from moving all the way to the rear.Comment
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