Serious question on switching S&W barrel

[Dano3467]

Will/or can one get S&W to replace a 686+ barrel (on my dime) 6" to 4"

If they would, how much do you think this would cost, or how long it might take.

Just fielding some options.

As always, thank you

[Tommy Gun]

Honestly might be more cost effective to buy a 4". Unless you have the barrel already.

[highpower]

It would probably be less expensive to sell the 6" revolver and buy a 4". If you factor in the cost of a new or used barrel, the labor to replace it and the shipping (assuming that you can't get it done locally), I don't think it is economically viable.

OTH, if the gun has certain sentimental value, then the cost is immaterial. However the tried and true Calguns answer is to keep the six inch gun and buy a four inch to go with it.

[Dano3467]

The issue comes from being unable (at this time anyway) to procure one.

I'm sure one will surface, or S&W will resume production soon.

So just spit balling to see what the brain trust knew about such things.

[Mr. Beretta]

Will/or can one get S&W to replace a 686+ barrel (on my dime) 6" to 4"

If they would, how much do you think this would cost, or how long it might take.

Just fielding some options.

As always, thank you

Call S&W Customer Service 1-800-331-0852 and ask.

Remember they're on EST.

Good luck!

[Rob454]

A barrel is $160

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/smith-wesson/revolvers-sw/686-sw

A gunsmith may cost $200 to get it installed.
You can sell the old barrel to recoup some money. A new gun is gonna run you $900-1000 bucks if not more.
You can also look for someone who wants to swap a 4 inch for a 6 inch and just do a trade

[smittty]

Some 6” barrels come with the new colt python attached. ��

[TurboChrisB]

Keep your eye on gunbroker for one.

[TAS]

If you find yourself looking for a new/used 4”, there is the SSR, which is a 686 model. It’s not a ‘plus’ so it only has a 6 round capacity, but it is a sweet shooter. Opinions will vary but it was designed to be competition ready out of the box.

I do not compete but enjoy the heck out of mine. It’s easily one of my favorite revolvers.

[Barang]

A barrel is $160

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/smith-wesson/revolvers-sw/686-sw

A gunsmith may cost $200 to get it installed.
You can sell the old barrel to recoup some money. A new gun is gonna run you $900-1000 bucks if not more.
You can also look for someone who wants to swap a 4 inch for a 6 inch and just do a trade

i like this option.

[ysr_racer]

I've seen a gunsmith change a barrel on a S&W revolver. You clamp the barrel in a padded vice, then use special inserts in a special frame wrench, and turn the frame.

Then you have to set the cylinder gap. Too little is better than too much. Too much means they have to take the barrel off, and set it back.

[hambam105]

The pluming isle conveniently located at any Harbor Freight store near you will gladly offer you a wide selection
of semi custom wrenches in different shapes and colors for any kind of precision Colt or Smith & Wesson revolver
DYI jobs. Remember, if you use the right wrench no technical experience necessary. Just pull the handle harder.

Don't forget to ask HB for your Father's Day early coupon special.

[ojisan]

I've seen a gunsmith change a barrel on a S&W revolver. You clamp the barrel in a padded vice, then use special inserts in a special frame wrench, and turn the frame.

Then you have to set the cylinder gap. Too little is better than too much. Too much means they have to take the barrel off, and set it back.

I make wood frame supports using a dremel, files and epoxy, then cushioned with a layer of duct tape to protect the finish.
The frame gets clamped in the vise.
I use a padded wrench on the barrel.
The advantage to doing it this way is I can make supports for guns that nothing is made for.

[RandyD]

I have a 4" 686 and I am open to trading barrels. If interested send me a PM.

[ojisan]

Of major importance when selecting a revolver barrel for a swap is the shank length.
The shank is the threaded portion of the barrel that includes the forcing cone.
You should carefully measure the distance from the face of the forcing cone to the line where the barrel outer surface meets the frame.
A replacement barrel shank should be this length or longer to make sure the barrel can be screwed in far enough so the barrel to cylinder gap is too small or hopefully within spec.
If the gap is none or too small there are forcing cone face cutters sold by Brownell's and others.
I will admit to having taken off a couple thousands or so using jeweler's files on a barrel that was just a hair too long.
If the gap is too big then the barrel shoulder will need to be set back.

Next, be aware of the fact that the frames from one gun to the next are not cut to the same length.
Even on major name brands the portion of the frame that holds the barrel threads can be slightly longer or shorter and this can affect the shank length fit.
When you are trying to determine if a barrel is a good candidate for a cannibalization or swap this measurement must also be considered.
The reason for all this measuring and cutting is not only must the barrel to cylinder gap be correct, but the barrel when tightened must have the front sight blade perfectly vertical.
Some "kentucky windage' is required for all this fitting as the final full tightening of barrel to frame should ideally only be done once and you won't exactly know your barrel to cylinder gap until the barrel is all the way home.
You will want to figure out something like 1 /4 turn of the barrel equals about .005" or whatever for your adjusting and calculations.
(Of course, a professional gunsmith with all the proper equipment and measuring equipment can be very precise in the set-up.)