Building My Own Steel Targets - Need Some Advice

[Federalist]

OK, I realize that "need advice" opens me up to all sorts of abuse, but hope that the abuse will be worth it (given the collective experience of Calgunners).

I think I may have found myself two AR500 square plates (12"x12"x3/8") that have holes drilled in the two top corners of each. If this proves to be true, I plan to build a couple of target stands from which I can hang the plates. I want to keep the stands simple and easy to disassemble for transport.

I plan to use steel pipe to make the stands. Do you recommend that I use galvanized steel pipe or something else? For targets this size, do you recommend that I use 3/4" pipe or something larger? Any thoughts on the length of the crossbar and legs? I'm thinking about 30" for each.

Since I plan to hand the plates from a crossbar pipe, is there any dis/advantage to simply draping chain over the crossbar? Does this method of attachment allow the target to "creep" when it is hit? Or is it better to weld a link onto the crossbar? (This is a bit of an issues since I don't know how to weld.) And any thoughts on how far below the crossbar I hang the plates? I'm thinking about 6" of total chain length.

Finally, does anyone have a preferred design for such a stand? I have seen a number of stands with T-style legs connecting to the crossbar. I also have seen A-frame style legs. I'm leaning toward the T-style legs design.

Thanks in advance.

[zrock]

2 things. Hanging the plates with a chain works good . If its just you and your buddies it will last . Dont use any kind of g/pipe as it wont last . We have used 1" thick rebar to hang plates from and it works good. We have a range that gets lite to med use and our setups last about a year. If your ever up in corona pm me and i show you.

[zrock]

The a-frame works good . Dont worry to much about the details if its just you and your friends. Hook it up and blast. Make sure its out about 100+ yds

[Jonathan Doe]

I would use tempered steel and mount it in an angle.

[Federalist]

Thanks for the tips. Galvanized is out, and I'll check out the rebar and tempered steel routes. I'm making them for moderate use by my buds and me. We'll be sure to use them at 100y or more.

Wednesday or Thursday, I will find out if the AR500 plates are for real, or just a dream. If they show up, I have a new weekend project.

[DSeifert]

Use COLD rolled steel not mild/hot rolled steel. Cold rolled steel will resist pass through more that the mild steel.

[chuck762]

Use COLD rolled steel not mild/hot rolled steel. Cold rolled steel will resist pass through more that the mild steel.

Cold rolled can be either something fairly soft such as 1018 (most common and least expensive steels) or slightly harder. The main advantage of cold rolled it a nicer surface finish.


Hot rolled comes with the hardened slag on it which is a pain to remove and makes the surface harder. It is actually a little harder due to the forming process.

The amount of carbon and other additives in the metal and what is done to it heat treat wise is where the hardness comes from.

Rifle bullets will go right through cold rooled depending on the thickness.
I have a bunch of 1/2 scrap 1018 plate from work and .308 even at 300 yds take quite a chunk out of it. 1/4 inch thick and the bullet goes right through it.
Even .223 will go through 1/4 cold rolled if 100 yds away. 3/8 or thicker in the softer steels is needed if you want it to last any amount of time.

AR500 won't show any damage except maybe at the very edges if it was flame cut since that will anneal that area some.

If you use pipes make it so you can replace sections along with the chain as they will be hit unless it is just you shooting it. Get a group together and your stand will have holes in it if exposed.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/steelguide.cfm

Do some googling if you want to learn more and make your head hurt from reading all the technical stuff