CLR Removes Carbon

[RandyD]

A couple of weeks ago, I started a thread about using CLR on a rifle barrel clogged with carbon. This thread is somewhat of a continuation regarding the use of CLR.

This past weekend I cleaned my stainless steel Smith & Wesson .357 Magnum revolver. The front of the cylinder had some significant carbon burn rings. I put some CLR on a rag, and after rubbing the face of the cylinder for 2-3 minutes the carbon burn rings were gone. Previously, this task would take me about 30 minutes with using Mother's Mag Polish. Polishing the front face of the cylinder can eventually change the cylinder's gap tolerances, but with CLR I don't have that concern.

One concern about using CLR is that it will remove bluing, so I would not use it on a blued steel barrel.

I have a cousin who I email about once a week and our topics are mostly on firearms, shooting, cleaning, reloading, etc. He cleaned his brother's rifle barrel. He first used Hoppes and got clean patches. Then he used CLR and black carbon sludge came out. The rifle had not been shot more than 100 times. I am suspecting that many of us have a lot of carbon in our barrels, that we are unaware of. I am looking forward to using CLR on my M-1 Garand to see how much carbon has been left in it.

[Corbin Dallas]

Interesting.

I may try this on one of my older rifles that I KNOW has a ton of carbon.

Did you make sure to clean the CLR off the barrel after you got the carbon done? My only concern is that CLR is quite caustic and could damage the metal if left on for some time.

[SharedShots]

Mother's Mag Polish. Maybe read the use directions for that product to understand it wasn't ever meant to clean carbon from the front of revolver cylinders? If you're polishing the front of your revolver cylinder for 30 minutes maybe re-evaluate what you're doing and consider cleaning rather than polishing. It shouldn't take more than a minute to clean even a rather dirty front end of a cylinder.

Cleaning and polishing are two completely different things. Polishing is done after cleaning and polishing is not cleaning.

There is the CLR kick going around, almost always involving some advice to or from a relative and an email chain and a forum post to get more people to use it.

You started a thread a few weeks ago and instead of adding to it you start another thread about the very same thing? Seriously?

[jchen76@gmail.com]

It's common to use CLR for rimfire suppressors to get rid of build up that minimizes scraping.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xte_pf3ZhsA

[RandyD]

Interesting.

I may try this on one of my older rifles that I KNOW has a ton of carbon.

Did you make sure to clean the CLR off the barrel after you got the carbon done? My only concern is that CLR is quite caustic and could damage the metal if left on for some time.

The rifle that I used CLR on is 125 years old and most of the bluing has worn off, so I was not concerned about it ruining the existing finish. However, you are correct, it can damage a metal surface if left on too long. I did get some on the outside of the barrel and left it on for a while and a stain was created, but that stain came off by wiping it with CLR. If you are going to use it on a blued firearm, be cautious. It is no different than using Sweets 7.62, which should not be left in the bore for more than 15 minutes.

[RandyD]

Mother's Mag Polish. Maybe read the use directions for that product to understand it wasn't ever meant to clean carbon from the front of revolver cylinders? If you're polishing the front of your revolver cylinder for 30 minutes maybe re-evaluate what you're doing and consider cleaning rather than polishing. It shouldn't take more than a minute to clean even a rather dirty front end of a cylinder.

Cleaning and polishing are two completely different things. Polishing is done after cleaning and polishing is not cleaning.

There is the CLR kick going around, almost always involving some advice to or from a relative and an email chain and a forum post to get more people to use it.

You started a thread a few weeks ago and instead of adding to it you start another thread about the very same thing? Seriously?

Thanks for your quips.

I understand the difference between cleaning and polishing. You appear to be assuming I did not clean before polishing.

I am not a troll or part of an email chain that is trying to get more people to use CLR. I am simply reporting my first-hand experience in using a compound that was not produced for firearms cleaning.

BTW, welcome to this site. I notice you have been on here a whopping 4 months. If you had more time on this site, you would know that I am not a troll. I have been on this site for over 12 years and my reputation and contributions are well known.

Yes, I was serious when I started this thread. Who put you on a throne to judge others and their contributions?

[Barang]

i only have one stainless finish and is now a safe queen. would have been nice if you shared this info when i was elbow greasing it couple of years ago.

thanks for the info.

[RandyD]

It's common to use CLR for rimfire suppressors to get rid of build up that minimizes scraping.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xte_pf3ZhsA

That was a good video. Thanks. The man in the video is Erik Cortina, he is well known in the shooting community.

[RandyD]

i only have one stainless finish and is now a safe queen. would have been nice if you shared this info when i was elbow greasing it couple of years ago.

thanks for the info.

A couple of years! I have been scrubbing carbon off firearms since the late 60's. I miss out on a lot of fun things that I could have been doing.

[Just-in]

I am intrigued, thanks for sharing. CLR is something I keep around anyway because we have hard water in my community.

I used Sea Foam to remove some carbon from a pistol barrel feed ramp and muzzle a few months back, I was impressed because while not being a miracle product, it did work faster than some gun cleaning products in my toolbox, and it's cheaper.

[Flying Sig]

Mother's Mag Polish. Maybe read the use directions for that product to understand it wasn't ever meant to clean carbon from the front of revolver cylinders? If you're polishing the front of your revolver cylinder for 30 minutes maybe re-evaluate what you're doing and consider cleaning rather than polishing. It shouldn't take more than a minute to clean even a rather dirty front end of a cylinder.

Cleaning and polishing are two completely different things. Polishing is done after cleaning and polishing is not cleaning.

There is the CLR kick going around, almost always involving some advice to or from a relative and an email chain and a forum post to get more people to use it.

You started a thread a few weeks ago and instead of adding to it you start another thread about the very same thing? Seriously?

Thanks for your quips.

I understand the difference between cleaning and polishing. You appear to be assuming I did not clean before polishing.

I am not a troll or part of an email chain that is trying to get more people to use CLR. I am simply reporting my first-hand experience in using a compound that was not produced for firearms cleaning.

BTW, welcome to this site. I notice you have been on here a whopping 4 months. If you had more time on this site, you would know that I am not a troll. I have been on this site for over 12 years and my reputation and contributions are well known.

Yes, I was serious when I started this thread. Who put you on a throne to judge others and their contributions?

[Dan_Eastvale]

How to remove the baked on, rock hard carbon on the crown of my ak? From the muzzle brake.
Boretech C4 Carbon Cleaner?

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=0/sku=509350040/sku/

[RandyD]

How to remove the baked on, rock hard carbon on the crown of my ak? From the muzzle brake.
Boretech C4 Carbon Cleaner?

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=0/sku=509350040/sku/

I am tempted to try C4. Brownells' price for C4 is $3.50 per ounce. Amazon's price for CLR for $0.17 per ounce.

[DDRH]

Be careful with CLR. It is acid. Works great for carbon on stainless, but if left overnight or a few days, it could pit/etch the steel. It works good, just make sure to flush it all out.

This was tested by Frank Green of Bartlein barrels.
Erik Cortina also uses CLR, but I don't think he soaks the barrel too long.

Do not use CLR on nitrided parts (ie..muzzle brakes), unless you want it coming out pink/red. I've done this a few times, but the carbon turns it back to black ��

Boretech C4 works good too, but takes longer. It is safer than CLR. I soaked a caked muzzle brake for about 3 days and most of the carbon came off.