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This is part of a series on how to zero an IR laser when there is no slaved laser. Also when there is no commercially available target to zero the laser available.
Tools and Supplies
- laser bore sighter
- tape, paper, cardboard, scissors and a fine tip marker
- necessary tools to zero the lasers
- rifle stand
First, to create a target for zeroing, one must know the offset between the bore and the IR laser.
Put the rifle on a stable rifle stand and set up a solid target stand in front of the barrel. I used index cards. Insert the laser bore sighter into the rifle and mark the center of the laser dot.
Then, turn down the lights, and put on IR goggles. Turn on the IR laser and mark the center of the IR dot, without moving the target.
I did this exercise twice and found that my offset is 40mm and 6mm off the centerline. Using the original index cards, I made templates to create the targets.
I first made a bore sighting target to bore sight the IR laser to get me on paper. This was done by putting two reflectors on each offset POI. The objective is that when you shine both visible and IR lasers on this target, both reflectors will splash back simultaneously. I did this at 12 yards. At this point, I predict the rifle is already within a 25 yard minute of man.
With the templates, I transferred the offset to commercial targets by marking POIs with sharpie.
With the the offset POI centers marked, I placed a reflector at the IR laser POI, and put a 2 inch circle on the bore's POI.
This completes creation of the targets. The last step is to bring these targets to the range at night and shoot them. I simply shine the IR laser on the reflector, and adjust it so that I am grouping on the 2 inch circles.
Boresighting with lasers does not compensate for ballistics. It is necessary to use these targets at the zero range desired.
I havent decided whether to zero at 25, 50 or 100 meters.
EDIT: I’ve settled on a 19.5 yard / 270 yard zero for my red dot and laser. This represents the P battle sight setting on the AK. And 19.5 to 270 yard zero.
Tools and Supplies
- laser bore sighter
- tape, paper, cardboard, scissors and a fine tip marker
- necessary tools to zero the lasers
- rifle stand
First, to create a target for zeroing, one must know the offset between the bore and the IR laser.
Put the rifle on a stable rifle stand and set up a solid target stand in front of the barrel. I used index cards. Insert the laser bore sighter into the rifle and mark the center of the laser dot.
Then, turn down the lights, and put on IR goggles. Turn on the IR laser and mark the center of the IR dot, without moving the target.
I did this exercise twice and found that my offset is 40mm and 6mm off the centerline. Using the original index cards, I made templates to create the targets.
I first made a bore sighting target to bore sight the IR laser to get me on paper. This was done by putting two reflectors on each offset POI. The objective is that when you shine both visible and IR lasers on this target, both reflectors will splash back simultaneously. I did this at 12 yards. At this point, I predict the rifle is already within a 25 yard minute of man.
With the templates, I transferred the offset to commercial targets by marking POIs with sharpie.
With the the offset POI centers marked, I placed a reflector at the IR laser POI, and put a 2 inch circle on the bore's POI.
This completes creation of the targets. The last step is to bring these targets to the range at night and shoot them. I simply shine the IR laser on the reflector, and adjust it so that I am grouping on the 2 inch circles.
Boresighting with lasers does not compensate for ballistics. It is necessary to use these targets at the zero range desired.
I havent decided whether to zero at 25, 50 or 100 meters.
EDIT: I’ve settled on a 19.5 yard / 270 yard zero for my red dot and laser. This represents the P battle sight setting on the AK. And 19.5 to 270 yard zero.
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