Even with equal steel, there is a difference between AR500 targets

[MarikinaMan]

https://imgur.com/a/OGnduFd

Last night, a video I was watching mentioned that cheaper production cutting methods that uses lot of heat can anneal an otherwise good target and make the metal softer.

Anywhere from an inch from the edge to as much as 60-75% of the whole target.

Supposedly, I should be looking for water jet cut or at the least laser cut targets.

Just sayin

[NapalmCheese]

The edges will get nicked no matter what, they are weak points because the impact area lacks the benefit of being supported around the entire circumference.

That being said, yes, anyone that's trying to cut out AR500 plates with a torch or plasma cutter isn't doing the metal any favors.

[audiophil2]

That's not heavy damage. I've got plates that are broken and splatter welded back together. What you have is almost new.

[MarikinaMan]

That's not heavy damage. I've got plates that are broken and splatter welded back together. What you have is almost new.

I have steel over 5 years old. None of them have a blemish on the surface except the two that caught a round on the edge. So I'm just talking relative to how Ive used my steel.

From a safety standpoint, the expert says the target is no longer safe for close in shooting.

A flat surface will deflect splatter at 15 degree angles. A dimple can cause splatter to come straight back at the shooter. At 100 yards, this is not a concern, but under 20 yards, Im concerned.

But, I will use it for 100 yards or more. Not worried there.

[MarikinaMan]

The edges will get nicked no matter what, they are weak points because the impact area lacks the benefit of being supported around the entire circumference.

That being said, yes, anyone that's trying to cut out AR500 plates with a torch or plasma cutter isn't doing the metal any favors.

You may be right. I just heard an "expert" say the edge get nicked because the heat from cutting makes them softer. Not as what you said.

Low heating cutting is the preferred way, but gets expensive.

But I aint putting money on it, I dont know any better.

[afteractionreport]

That why most of the retailers selling ar500 advise not to shoot rifle rounds closer than 100 y. Small pitting Is fine.
That one just looks like a lucky ricochet.

[MarikinaMan]

That why most of the retailers selling ar500 advise not to shoot rifle rounds closer than 100 y. Small pitting Is fine.
That one just looks like a lucky ricochet.

Yeah, but close quarters rifle drills are a heckavalottafun. I have paper target stands, those are cool too.

[splithoof]

Salute Products is one of my favorites for AR-500 steel targets. Water jet cutting is what they use, and some of mine from them are over 15(?) years old, and have been used in competitive events from day one. Their targets are held at an angle, so the splatter makes a radius on the ground. With shotguns & sidearms, I’ve used them close (3-4 yards), rifles usually 100 yards.
With rifle rounds, all will eventually get small chips at the edges. For that, I segregate the plates to the weapons used.

[MarikinaMan]

Same here. I have angled target hangers, a set of rifle targets, and I have been reloading frangible ammo.

[golfish]

I have a plate that I've put holes in with my ARs. Good AR500 plates won't do that.

[audiophil2]

I have steel over 5 years old. None of them have a blemish on the surface except the two that caught a round on the edge. So I'm just talking relative to how Ive used my steel.

From a safety standpoint, the expert says the target is no longer safe for close in shooting.

A flat surface will deflect splatter at 15 degree angles. A dimple can cause splatter to come straight back at the shooter. At 100 yards, this is not a concern, but under 20 yards, Im concerned.

But, I will use it for 100 yards or more. Not worried there.

I have plates with hundreds of pits I shoot under 20 yards. Never had an issue. These are plates hit multiple times with machine guns and they rock in all directions.

Last time I was out painting the plates I noticed a very distinct area where most of the lead hits on the ground it is about 2 feet in front of the plate and about 3 feet wide. About 2 inch stripe of grey along the ground.

[NapalmCheese]

I have a plate that I've put holes in with my ARs. Good AR500 plates won't do that.

You can punch a hole in ANY AR500 plate with an AR.

Just let it impact at >3000 fps and see what happens. Speed kills plates, not projectile weight.

[audiophil2]

You can punch a hole in ANY AR500 plate with an AR.

Just let it impact at >3000 fps and see what happens. Speed kills plates, not projectile weight.

Incorrect.

[MarikinaMan]

I have plates with hundreds of pits I shoot under 20 yards. Never had an issue. These are plates hit multiple times with machine guns and they rock in all directions.

Last time I was out painting the plates I noticed a very distinct area where most of the lead hits on the ground it is about 2 feet in front of the plate and about 3 feet wide. About 2 inch stripe of grey along the ground.

Good info there. And having known you on here, I suspect you own first rate AR500 targets which would mean they hold their own.

I have video of the splatter my targets make from the angled hangers. Its about a 5 foot line a little behind my plate.

[MarikinaMan]

Incorrect.

Agreed. I'll bet a good amount of money he cant pierce my 1/2" thick gong with a penetrator even at point blank