Barrel cleaning - back and forth? And rod question

[SanDiego619]

If I am using BoreTech to get copper out of my barrel, can I run the brush back and forth or only one direction?

I saw a video of someone going up and down the barrel to clean it, I thought that was a no no.

I got a "brass" brush that turned into stainless steel after contacting the BoreTech. Will that damage the barrel? Would nylon be better than brass? Are metal cleaning rods ok?

Thank you

[Divernhunter]

Use a 1 piece rod-- coated or steel(forgot about the carbon fiber ones that I have not used).
I prefer to just use patches. I sometimes use a plastic or brass or even a stainless steel brush if required. I do get to clean some pretty bad firearms and mil surplus ones that were probably last cleaned in 1944.
The compound in the solvent that removes copper fouling will also eat up a brass brush and to a lesser extent a brass jig.

You can do as you please with the strokes on a brush. Probably the best would be with a breach guide and remove the brush when pushed out the barrel each time. However I do work it out the barrel then back thru the barrel. several times. Then follow with some patches.

you should be using enough patches that you buy 500-1000 bulk packs of them and not little 25-100 bubble packs of them.

"I personally" would 1st use Wipe-Out and patches then the Bore Tech. I actually use the Wipe-Out then Sweets7.62 or Barnes CR-10 followed by Butches Bore Shine or Tetra-Gun or even Shooters Choice. This is especially true when I plan to shoot all copper bullets after the firearm has been used with regular jacketed bullets.

[SanDiego619]

Use a 1 piece rod-- coated or steel(forgot about the carbon fiber ones that I have not used).
I prefer to just use patches. I sometimes use a plastic or brass or even a stainless steel brush if required. I do get to clean some pretty bad firearms and mil surplus ones that were probably last cleaned in 1944.
The compound in the solvent that removes copper fouling will also eat up a brass brush and to a lesser extent a brass jig.

You can do as you please with the strokes on a brush. Probably the best would be with a breach guide and remove the brush when pushed out the barrel each time. However I do work it out the barrel then back thru the barrel. several times. Then follow with some patches.

you should be using enough patches that you buy 500-1000 bulk packs of them and not little 25-100 bubble packs of them.

"I personally" would 1st use Wipe-Out and patches then the Bore Tech. I actually use the Wipe-Out then Sweets7.62 or Barnes CR-10 followed by Butches Bore Shine or Tetra-Gun or even Shooters Choice. This is especially true when I plan to shoot all copper bullets after the firearm has been used with regular jacketed bullets.

Thanks for all the info, I was considering those carbon cleaning rods, I've heard that the barrel can be damaged from steel brushes or cleaning rods, I was not sure if that was true. I buy 1000-packs of patches, I use lots when cleaning.

So what is the reason people say don't go up the barrel (towards the chamber)? Is it because if gunk goes in the chamber, rounds won't seat all the way into it properly?

[IVC]

Normally, you want to use brass brush. It's been used forever and is the standard for cleaning barrels. Nylon is too soft, steel is too hard. There are times you would use them, but not for general cleaning.

The only issue with going both ways is that whey you go from the muzzle end you'll be spraying some debris into the action. Not a big deal, if you ask me, since you'll be cleaning it all anyways, but some people are picky about it.

Just remember that guns get damaged by over-cleaning much more than by not being cleaned enough.

[bohoki]

aint no steel brush goin in my bore even the swirly culry one designed for shotguns is excessive

never reverse a copper or bronze brush in the bore

i am a bit more careless with my pistols though cause i shoot a hell of a lot of old lead bullets

[SanDiego619]

Normally, you want to use brass brush. It's been used forever and is the standard for cleaning barrels. Nylon is too soft, steel is too hard. There are times you would use them, but not for general cleaning.

The only issue with going both ways is that whey you go from the muzzle end you'll be spraying some debris into the action. Not a big deal, if you ask me, since you'll be cleaning it all anyways, but some people are picky about it.

Just remember that guns get damaged by over-cleaning much more than by not being cleaned enough.

May I ask, what exactly is the action? It sounds like all the moving parts, bolt face, ejector, etc. is that correct? Or is the action the chamber? Will a chamber brush and boresnake sufficiently remove debris from the chamber?

I only want something to remove copper fouling on well-maintained barrels, so I don't think I need steel or something crazy. I'll look for a brass brush.

Thanks for the info.

[SanDiego619]

aint no steel brush goin in my bore even the swirly culry one designed for shotguns is excessive

never reverse a copper or bronze brush in the bore

i am a bit more careless with my pistols though cause i shoot a hell of a lot of old lead bullets

That is what I've always heard, will reversing a copper brush cause damage, or just pull junk backwards the wrong direction?

Thank you

[Barang]

i use nylon and brass brush interchangeably running back and forth. i make sure the brush come out the muzzle end before pulling it back the opposite direction.

i use hopes first then follow it up with boretech.

[bohoki]

QUOTE]

no if you reverse in the bore the brush can jam its more likely in small calibers (under .30) cause the ratio of twisty wire holder to bore scrubber can make it act like a ziptie

i saw someone get one stuck in a 10/22 barrel stripped out the rod


you can go back and forth i go back and forth i just make sure its out of the barrel all the way

[SanDiego619]

QUOTE]

no if you reverse in the bore the brush can jam its more likely in small calibers (under .30) cause the ratio of twisty wire holder to bore scrubber can make it act like a ziptie

i saw someone get one stuck in a 10/22 barrel stripped out the rod


you can go back and forth i go back and forth i just make sure its out of the barrel all the way

That makes sense, thanks for the clarification!

[CWL]

When cleaning from the muzzle end, I always use a brass muzzle guide so I don't cause any accidental damage to the muzzle rifling.

[FeuerFrei]

You cannot go wrong with a bronze bore brush and nylon chamber brush.

It has always been gun care dogmatic law to clean from the breach to muzzle in a complete single pass without stopping. Do that unless your cleaning kit and or gun manufacturer says it's OK to do otherwise.

Copper build up will depend on your barrel's rifling/finishes. Bare neked 4140 steel coppers up faster than nitride or CL barrels IME. Nitrided takes a long time to copper up.

Degraded accuracy for no good reason on any barrel is my tell. Time to give it an enema.

[fish45]

Only use a coated rod. A non coated steel rod will scratch the barrel.

Be careful about how long you leave cooper fouling remover in the barrel. It can damage the bore if left in for too long.

[IVC]

May I ask, what exactly is the action? It sounds like all the moving parts, bolt face, ejector, etc. is that correct?

Yes, it's the moving parts that make the gun work. They are behind the chamber, so as the brush comes out it will spray a bit towards the moving parts (assuming you're brushing in this direction). That's why it's generally recommended to brush in the direction of the muzzle.

Will a chamber brush and boresnake sufficiently remove debris from the chamber?

Chamber is usually directly connected to the barrel so whatever cleans the barrel will clean the chamber. Revolvers have chambers in the cylinder, so you have to clean each one as if it was barrel - brush through, wipe clean with the bore snake.

I only want something to remove copper fouling on well-maintained barrels, so I don't think I need steel or something crazy. I'll look for a brass brush.

If you know it's copper, look for the specific products that will dissolve copper.

I don't shoot copper bullets so I don't use it, but as far as I know it's the same process as with any other fouling - you use the correct product, you let it soak for a bit, you brush until you're happy with the result, then you lightly coat with oil for protection.

I've seen enough people really try to go for the ultra clean, running jags with loads of patches until it all comes out completely clean, brushing and stressing out. In reality, you're just scrubbing the inside of the barrel, the same as if you were over-cleaning your stove - it ends up a bit cleaner, but you've scraped a lot of metal.

The first shot you fire afterwards will bring the barrel back to your "good enough clean" that you'd get by just making sure there are no deposits. So all this super clean mostly just damages the barrel for no benefit. When you shoot your guns, only the first shot will be through the clean barrel. The rest is through your "working clean enough" barrel.

This is just my 2c, so take it with a grain of salt. Many will disagree...

[SanDiego619]

Yes, it's the moving parts that make the gun work. They are behind the chamber, so as the brush comes out it will spray a bit towards the moving parts (assuming you're brushing in this direction). That's why it's generally recommended to brush in the direction of the muzzle.



Chamber is usually directly connected to the barrel so whatever cleans the barrel will clean the chamber. Revolvers have chambers in the cylinder, so you have to clean each one as if it was barrel - brush through, wipe clean with the bore snake.



If you know it's copper, look for the specific products that will dissolve copper.

I don't shoot copper bullets so I don't use it, but as far as I know it's the same process as with any other fouling - you use the correct product, you let it soak for a bit, you brush until you're happy with the result, then you lightly coat with oil for protection.

I've seen enough people really try to go for the ultra clean, running jags with loads of patches until it all comes out completely clean, brushing and stressing out. In reality, you're just scrubbing the inside of the barrel, the same as if you were over-cleaning your stove - it ends up a bit cleaner, but you've scraped a lot of metal.

The first shot you fire afterwards will bring the barrel back to your "good enough clean" that you'd get by just making sure there are no deposits. So all this super clean mostly just damages the barrel for no benefit. When you shoot your guns, only the first shot will be through the clean barrel. The rest is through your "working clean enough" barrel.

This is just my 2c, so take it with a grain of salt. Many will disagree...

Thanks, I've learned a lot. I don't try to scrub the barrel perfectly clean anymore, and I use BoreTech to remove fouling of various sorts. I'll probably get a better brass brush to help loosen up carbon and agitate the BoreTech as it works on the copper and lead. I use jacketed rounds but whenever I use boretech it comes out nice and teal so I know there's some copper in there. After hundreds of rounds it comes out really dark teal.

Thanks again for the information. Based on what you said, I do not think there is any harm in running the brush from the muzzle towards the chamber. The upper is off the rifle with the BCG removed at that point, so I'm not getting any mess in the action to speak of.