Safe install Question

[Sousuke]

I've recently moved and will be installing my safe asap.

My previous house was a rental so I used threaded concrete bolts to secure it to a slab. When I moved, I unscrewed them and filled the holes with concrete filler. (Anchor types you generally have to cutoff leaving the metal in the slab).

I now own so I can do as I please. Is it really necessary to use anchor type bolts or do you think my threaded bolts were adequate? I think both types defend well against tipping / pry attempts.

I used these previously: https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-con...oaAmKfEALw_wcB

I know most recommend these: https://www.google.com/search?q=conc...rgpusZCZOcUpM:

[onelonehorseman]

I've recently moved and will be installing my safe asap.

My previous house was a rental so I used threaded concrete bolts to secure it to a slab. When I moved, I unscrewed them and filled the holes with concrete filler. (Anchor types you generally have to cutoff leaving the metal in the slab).

I now own so I can do as I please. Is it really necessary to use anchor type bolts or do you think my threaded bolts were adequate? I think both types defend well against tipping / pry attempts.

I used these previously: https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-con...oaAmKfEALw_wcB

I know most recommend these: https://www.google.com/search?q=conc...rgpusZCZOcUpM:

For me, the more secure, the better.

I used anchor type into the slab AND lag bolts through the back of the safe into a couple of wall studs.

[SVT-40]

Just make sure your slab isn't post tension. Or if it is, know EXACTLY where the steel is before you drill

[smoothy8500]

Just make sure your slab isn't post tension. Or if it is, know EXACTLY where the steel is before you drill

Is there a way of finding the tension cables with a metal detector? We luckily "found" one while jackhammering the slab on a re-model.

[Powder_Keg]

I used the "wedge anchor" type and I added a fender washer.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-3-8-in-x-3-3-4-in-Concrete-Wedge-Anchor-15-Pack-11016/100045628

A hammer drill and masonry bit make for quick work. Should take you 25-35 mins max. Hammer the anchors in and tighten down the nuts.

Before you butt the safe up to a wall and secure it to the slab, run the elec for your light and dry rod first. Once it's bolted down the 4 studs don't allow a lot of movement even when they are loose.

[Jeepergeo]

Anchors are the way to go. Look at the pull out rating for each option you are considering (compare same bolt diameters) and you will see why anchors are stronger. The exception might be some of the epoxy grout solutions, but those are more complicated than needed.

And don't underestimate pry access and tipping access limitations...those can be just as important as bolting down. And keep in mind, many safe break ins are accomplished via cutting sides or tops.

[Sousuke]

Just make sure your slab isn't post tension. Or if it is, know EXACTLY where the steel is before you drill

Its not, its a typical rebar pour.

[Sousuke]

Anchors are the way to go. Look at the pull out rating for each option you are considering (compare same bolt diameters) and you will see why anchors are stronger. The exception might be some of the epoxy grout solutions, but those are more complicated than needed.

And don't underestimate pry access and tipping access limitations...those can be just as important as bolting down. And keep in mind, many safe break ins are accomplished via cutting sides or tops.

At the old house it was a good setup. I had it in a semi hidden cabinet and there was only 3" of clearance on top and about 6" to 8 on the sides.

[calif 15-22]

I used the "wedge anchor" type and I added a fender washer.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Red-Head-3-8-in-x-3-3-4-in-Concrete-Wedge-Anchor-15-Pack-11016/100045628

A hammer drill and masonry bit make for quick work. Should take you 25-35 mins max. Hammer the anchors in and tighten down the nuts.

Before you butt the safe up to a wall and secure it to the slab, run the elec for your light and dry rod first. Once it's bolted down the 4 studs don't allow a lot of movement even when they are loose.

This is what I used as well.

Thin sharpie to mark the holes then move the safe and drill. Move safe back and hammer in the anchors and bolt down

[Saym14]

use the red heads. much better. even better are the epoxy bolts, if you do it right, they wont come out without a chunk of concrete, which is held down by the wt of your safe.

[Hopalong]

I guess it depends where you put the safe.
Mine is in a closet in a bedroom.
Unlikely to get a fork lift in there, so I used 5/8 threaded bolts.

[crazyhorse305]

anchor bolt

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QZ36M5/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B072QZ36M5&pd_rd_wg=kVo3z&pd_rd_r=6GX8NAV6WXYJFBSQRRKE&pd_rd_w=j3T5V

these are best anchor bolt for concrete floor, drill the hole, drop in anchor bolt, make sure the nut is level with top of thread, hammer the top pin the bottom of anchor expand and you done, no need to tighten nut, will tighten while you hammer the top pin, I install all my safe this way.

[rugershooter]

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=731447

Here's a good thread about it.

[hermosabeach]

The safe is a 5’ lever.... the screws will pull out easily

If you own the home, do it once and do it secure

[Waffleobill]

Drill and anchor bolts for me!