Unconfigured Ad Widget

Collapse

Gunkote vs Moly Resin Norells?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Psychbiker
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2009
    • 1671

    Gunkote vs Moly Resin Norells?

    I can't deicide on which route to go. I plan on getting a bench top sand blasting cabinet as the cost to have to lowers done pays for the tool.

    That said, Norells Moly Resin generally get's the better votes I've read but damn, 8oz is $30. Does 2.5 ARs. Not sure how many lowers or 1911 lowers that would be.

    Gunkote is $21 for 8oz and 4oz bottles is also available.

    Norells Moly Resin I guess dries faster before baking is a better finish. Does require blasting first and a parkerizing gets best results but not mandatory.

    Gunkote seems to only need to be degreased.

    Experience with either? I may get black or grey in Moly Resin and purple in gunkote for GF's lower.

    Can I k-phos then moly resin?
  • #2
    smoothy8500
    Veteran Member
    • Sep 2009
    • 3846

    I have used both. The Norrell's and Gunkote are the same product in my opinion, but Gunkote is thinned down more. Norrell's goes on easy and is less likely to drip or run. The Gunkote takes more work to apply-you have to be more careful about runs since it takes a little more application to get the coverage. P13 frame is Norrell's sandblasted before application. Safeties were parked prior to application.
    Last edited by smoothy8500; 01-31-2017, 7:59 AM.

    Comment

    • #3
      smoothy8500
      Veteran Member
      • Sep 2009
      • 3846


      Gunkote. The slide was parkerized with Lauer's manganese first.

      Comment

      • #4
        Psychbiker
        Senior Member
        • Jul 2009
        • 1671

        Thanks for those pics!

        On a 1911 build, is the thickness of either products a problem with fitting safeties and things after coating?

        I really don't wanna have to parkerize and was looking at k-phos which is a gunkote product. Both help adhesion.

        Think I'll do Norells and a small Gunkote.

        Comment

        • #5
          uxo2
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2008
          • 4003

          I have used both.

          Both require same prep. Surface to be AlumaOxide blasted, Sanded,
          Parked or anodized.

          The best results for adhesion I have had were on Parked parts followed by Anodization and Blasting.

          If you surface is smooth.. It will chip of easily.

          Both are Shake and spray. No mixing.

          Only difference I came away with is that KG has more colors.

          If your temp is to high.. Brittle and or color change.
          Last edited by uxo2; 01-31-2017, 9:51 AM.
          Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you,
          Jesus Christ and the American Soldier.
          One died for your soul; the other for your freedom.
          George Patton

          Comment

          • #6
            smoothy8500
            Veteran Member
            • Sep 2009
            • 3846

            Originally posted by Psychbiker

            On a 1911 build, is the thickness of either products a problem with fitting safeties and things after coating?
            No fitting problems. It's 10 times thinner than Duracoat or Ceracoat. Park does help with durability, but the Para frame was just blasted aluminum and it has held up fine.

            Comment

            Working...
            UA-8071174-1