Billet lower - bolt catch screw ISSUES

[Bagel_7]

Update- I cheated and used the roll pin. The screw was not going to work.


Hello, I'm building out my first 80% lower. After it was finished I took it to get anodized. I've started putting the lower together and have had some issues. When I installed the magazine release I had to sand a bit of the anodizing off to get proper fit.

Main issue right now is the bolt catch screw, it uses a screw not a roll pin. I can get the screw in a small bit, but it hits a point where the screw stops. I attempted to use a small drill bit to strip the anodizing but I can't get it to budge.

Second possible issue, the LPK i have didn't come with a bolt set screw, so I had to order one separately the only ones I could find said AR10. So I'm worried maybe I got the wrong size screw, it may be the anodizng, or it could the lower uses a specialized screw designed specific for their lower. Problem is I don't know who makes the lower. I got it on this board and it never said in the description.

Help!/

[SkyHawk]

You need a tap to chase those threads. It is probably a standard thread size - I can't imagine there being too many sizes of threaded bolt catch pivot pins.

If you can't find a skinny tap and a skinny extension to drive it - just use a sacrificial bolt with the same threads.

Be sure and tape the receiver up before you start so you don't scratch up your new finish.

[desrt2]

Is it a Broken Armory 80%?
The screw is brilliant. Especially having one for the bolt release. Much easier to install than a roll pin.
I have a special drift pin that I use for installing roll pins on MILSPEC lowers.
Anyway, if it's Broken Armory, give them a call or email. They are very helpful and personable and may sell you some extra screws to work with.
Try Skyhawk's suggestion.
Lubricate the hole and screw then drive it in until you meet resistance. Yeah, I know that sounds like rape.
Turn the screw 1/4 turn or so then back out then repeat until you complete the threading.
Clear out any metal shavings or particles every couple of full turns.
The steel screws are harder than the aluminum lower so be careful not to strip out the hole.
I've built 8 receivers from BA and they are very well designed. Coupled with the jig, the fit is very precise when milled correctly.
Let the person who did the anodizing know what happened. They may not have known they were working with a receiver that did not use a roll pin. Easy to overlook.

[Bagel_7]

As of right now the threads do not even touch. The actual pun is to large to fit through the exit of the front hole to make it into the gap.

[tonyxcom]

Then drill it out.

[desrt2]

Almost impossible to bore it out with a drill since there are no drill bits of that diameter long enough to reach.
No bore brush small enough.
A small Dremmel bit may work but is likely to be very sloppy and too aggressive.
It may be possible to drive a roll pin through if you can determine the right diameter but you wouldn't be able to remove it after installing it.
The person that did the anodizing probably has a sandblaster. The hole might have to be sand blasted.

[kevins750]

I believe I bought the same one, and it didn't come with the bolt either.

I ordered this....Haven't tried it yet though. 5/40 threads

https://billet80.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_62&product_id=76

the broken arms 1 piece bolt/pin is 6/32.

http://brokenarmory.com/Replacement-Parts_c2.htm

[tonyxcom]

Almost impossible to bore it out with a drill since there are no drill bits of that diameter long enough to reach.
No bore brush small enough.
A small Dremmel bit may work but is likely to be very sloppy and too aggressive.
It may be possible to drive a roll pin through if you can determine the right diameter but you wouldn't be able to remove it after installing it.
The person that did the anodizing probably has a sandblaster. The hole might have to be sand blasted.

Are we still talking about the bolt catch pivot/pin location? No drill bit long enough for that?

If you replace it with a roll pin, you would just drill it all the way through, that way it can be removed.

[Bagel_7]

Well I cheated and hammered the roll pin in. So hopefully that works out and doesn't come loose I've never had one go in so easily.

[Bullitt01]

You can buy 12" long VERY SMALL drill bits at home depot.

[b18bturboek9]

Had the same issue with a 308 billet lower, I just used a standard ar15 pin to punch instead of that one. Main reason why it's good to have extra parts laying around.

[Bullets&Whitewalls]

you can drill it from the mag well side to make the pin fit. I was able to do mine as I had the same issue. osh had some pretty long bits that I was able to get. Also I filed the pin a little bit too some of the coating was a little heavy. I used a hand drill when I did mine. I would be afraid that the standard roll pin will come loose because it is a bigger hole.

[desrt2]

I'm surprised that they sell bits that long for that diameter since it would take very little torque to break.
But the roll pin should stay in there.
The only reason to really remove the magazine catch now may be if you want a BAD lever or some other improved release.