Manufacturer's Name on Firearm

[Whiskey_Tango]

I know, I know. . I just got into electro etching and I'm looking into marking a lower. My question is what must be included/excluded from the manufacturer's name (#3 below)?

Example: I am John Smith, the manufacturer. Which of the following is acceptable?

A. John Smith
B. Smith
C. Smith Arms
D. John's Tactical
E. None of the above
F. Stop being paranoid and put wtf you want on there
G. No one can say for certain because no regulation agency would give up the invaluable ambiguity of their laws.

I've seen every which way, just curious if there is a "consensus"

From ATF:

Identification Markings Placed on Firearms (98R-341P)

1. The model, if such designation has been made;
2. The caliber or gauge;
3. The name (or recognized abbreviation of same) of the manufacturer and also, when applicable, of the importer;
4. In the case of a domestically made firearm, the city and State (or recognized abbreviation thereof) where the licensed
manufacturer maintains its place of business; and
5. In the case of an imported firearm, the name of the country in which manufactured and the city and State (or recognized
abbreviation thereof) where the importer maintains its place of business

UPDATE: went with the full "John Smith" pics posted below.

[j-shot]

Put the 2A on it.

I know, I know. . I just got into electro etching and I'm looking into marking a lower. My question is what must be included/excluded from the manufacturer's name (#3 below)?

Example: I am John Smith, the manufacturer. Which of the following is acceptable?

A. John Smith
B. Smith
C. Smith Arms
D. John's Tactical
E. Non of the above
F. Stop being paranoid and put wtf you want on there
G. No one can say for certain because no regulation agency would give up the invaluable ambiguity of their laws.

I've seen every which way, just curious if there is a "consensus"

From ATF:

Identification Markings Placed on Firearms (98R-341P)

1. The model, if such designation has been made;
2. The caliber or gauge;
3. The name (or recognized abbreviation of same) of the manufacturer and also, when applicable, of the importer;
4. In the case of a domestically made firearm, the city and State (or recognized abbreviation thereof) where the licensed
manufacturer maintains its place of business; and
5. In the case of an imported firearm, the name of the country in which manufactured and the city and State (or recognized
abbreviation thereof) where the importer maintains its place of business

[onelonehorseman]

Where's the poll? . . . bacon?

[huntercf]

If you are the manufacturer it would be your name.

[six seven tango]

Since this is a personal build and you do not intend to sell it, nothing is required. If you still want to do it, it really doesn't matter what you put on there. I've seen people make clones, and copy real roll marks.

To answer your question:

Name (John Smith)
City
State
Model number
Caliber (personally, I would put "multi")
Serial number (make one up)

If you want to do it all legal like, an electro pencil is probably not going to work. There are minimum height and depth requirements. Not sure I'd trust the electro pencil to reliably reach the .003" depth requirement. But, once again, since it's not required on a home build unless you sell it, it's up to you.

[Whiskey_Tango]

Since this is a personal build and you do not intend to sell it, nothing is required. If you still want to do it, it really doesn't matter what you put on there. I've seen people make clones, and copy real roll marks.

To answer your question:

Name (John Smith)
City
State
Model number
Caliber (personally, I would put "multi")
Serial number (make one up)

If you want to do it all legal like, an electro pencil is probably not going to work. There are minimum height and depth requirements. Not sure I'd trust the electro pencil to reliably reach the .003" depth requirement. But, once again, since it's not required on a home build unless you sell it, it's up to you.

I went ahead and did the full name. Not looking to ever sell, but I don't like the fact that it would (legally) have to be surrendered/destroyed when I buy the farm. No issue with getting 3 thou. I'm doin the hill billy car charger method http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=949819. Easily .010+ after 2.5 min.

[Whiskey_Tango]

Here it is pre-paint. Couldn't resist goin mall ninja on the right side, too much open area.

[six seven tango]

That turned out nice.

I've heard of acid etching with diluted battery acid and a q-tip, but not electro-etching. That's why I thought you were referring to an electro-pencil. After following the link you posted and now seeing yours, I'm impressed. I'm going to have to give that a try on my next 80%.

[CSACANNONEER]

Since this is a personal build and you do not intend to sell it, nothing is required. If you still want to do it, it really doesn't matter what you put on there. I've seen people make clones, and copy real roll marks.

To answer your question:

Name (John Smith)
City
State
Model number
Caliber (personally, I would put "multi")
Serial number (make one up)

If you want to do it all legal like, an electro pencil is probably not going to work. There are minimum height and depth requirements. Not sure I'd trust the electro pencil to reliably reach the .003" depth requirement. But, once again, since it's not required on a home build unless you sell it, it's up to you.

The only time there is any legal requirements for height, depth or any info is if it is going to be transferred. Until then, any markings of any size and depth are just as legal as no markings or big deep marking are.

[Flintlock Tom]

Nice job, very neat!