What to do with raw complete lower?

[juelz919]

Anodize? Powder coat? Cerakote? Spray paint?

Now i am starting to regret getting a raw one...

Is there any real differences? How much harder is an anodized over non-anodized? can i just buy a couple cans of rustoleum and call it a day?

My understanding is that aluminum doesnt rust but rather "corrodes" but its oxidation process makes it harder? Isnt that basically what anodizing does is oxidizes it all at once?

I'm obviously no chemist here but i will appreciate any help.

Or if someone here anodizes and is in sac that would be awesome too!

[bohoki]

flat black is fine it also looks neat as it rubs off the high spots for a more well used look

[Sabian722]

Talk to this guy: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?t=1143580

[VictorFranko]

There's a lot of plating shops that'll anodize that for $50 if you don't tell them what it is.

[juelz919]

I did a home anodize job and painted with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy over that. It came out a little glossy, but I still like it. The Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is a fairly durable finish and cheap at like 3-4 dollars at a local hardware store.

Instructions that I used for the application:

Dude that Gengar is godly.

HOW!!!!!

[hermosabeach]

Hard Anodizing definitely makes the surface of the Aluminum harder... less likely to scratch and less likely for the pin holes to looses up over time....



Is this a fighting rifle that will be shot 20,000 times or a plinker that might see 800 rounds in its lifetime of use.....

If it is a plinker, then Alumnahyde II or a similar product will be fine....
or
Find your local Sherwin Williams Auto Paint dealer and pick up a pint of what ever custom color you want....


From the Interweb....



A clarification on anodizing by Brad Fuller:

There are two types of anodizing, Chromic Anodize (MIL-A-8625E, Type 1 & 1B, Class 1 & 2) and Hard Anodize (MIL-A-8625E, Type III, Class 1 & 2). Chromic anodize is not the same as the Hard Coat anodize. The key as to what finish that is applied to aluminum AR15/M16 type receivers is the TYPE (I, IB, or III). A manufacturer may state that it meets MIL-A-8625E, but if no type is specified you don't know what you're getting. It must be type III for Hard Anodize to meet the spec for the M16. Types I & IB, class 2 can be dyed to the black or dark grey; the dye can rub off.

Type III, class 2 can be dyed and is specified on the contract drawings. Hard anodizing color will vary from light tan to black depending on alloy (this should be 7075 T-6 for AR15/M16 uppers and lowers) and can be dyed in darker colors depending on the thickness of the anodizing. Hard anodize coating penetrates the base metal as much as it builds up on the surface. This provides a VERY hard coating. If a thickness is unspecified on the contract drawings then the thickness shall be nominally 0.002" thick. The term THICKNESS includes both the buildup and the penetration. The upper receiver should then be coated on the interior with Solid Film Lubricant (MIL-L-8937D). I know Colt and Bushmaster apply this film and are HARD Anodized. Parts that have a purplish tone to them probably are not Hard Anodized. Older SGW parts were bead blasted and then chromic anodized.

Phosphate coatings are applied to medium and low alloy Steels. There are two types, M & Z, with class 1 thru 4, where M=Manganese and Z=Zinc. These are grey to black in color. Type M is more resistant than type Z to alkaline environments. Type M is used on AR15/M16 steel parts. The thickness of Phosphate coatings ranges between 0.00002"-0.00004".

For comparative purposes on the thicknesses, a human hair averages 0.015 thick.

Hope this provides everyone with some good information.

--Brad Fuller

[sigstroker]

Yeah, hard anodizing is pretty hard. A friend of mine dropped the lid of a hard case on his SIG frame. The nickel plated latch on the lid left a big silver mark on the frame. It wiped right off.

[BrokerB]

Cerakote bake on paint and be done with it.

Or go alumahyde...i used it , worked great ina .38 sw

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/paint-finishes/air-cure-aerosol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx

[stix213]

Just an FYI to the OP, generally the term "raw lower" is used to refer to a Registered Assault Weapon.

[whipkiller]

That ^^^ was my first thought when I saw the title.

[NinjaNinja]

I did a home anodize job and painted with Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy over that. It came out a little glossy, but I still like it. The Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is a fairly durable finish and cheap at like 3-4 dollars at a local hardware store.

Instructions that I used for the application:

As a Pokemon fanatic and a novice gun enthusiast, that Gengar Lower is LEGENDARY

[JDay]

There's a lot of plating shops that'll anodize that for $50 if you don't tell them what it is.

Unless he stays there while they do it they'd both be guilty of a felony since the shop doesn't have an FFL.

[CoopsDad]

I used aluminum primer from West Marine to prime my completed 80%; its made to bond to the metal. I then sprayed with desert sand camo rattlecan and it came out great.

[Jimi Jah]

I had mine engraved and anodized. It looks factory made. There are FFL anodizing shops that will do this.

[Staticsouls]

Leave it raw or polish it up so it screams home built!