Hoppe's #9 + CLP (not the usual "solvent vs solvent" thread)

[LT1Silverhawk]

Hi All,


My usual procedure for cleaning a barrel is:

- starting with a brush dipped in Hoppe's #9 to break yup the crud

- running a patch dipped in Hoppe's on needle jag

- cleaning out the crud and Hoppe's using a pointed jag with patches until
patches come out clean/

- running a patch sprayed with CLP.

- cleaning out the crud and CLP using a pointed jag with patches until patches come out clean.

- applying a coat of CLP as a protectant.


I have noticed that, after the patches come out clean after applying Hoppe's, the patches are even dirtier, if not just as dirty, after I apply CLP. is this normal? Or should I just skip Hoppe's (and just leave the bottle open for the aroma as I clean) and stick with CLP?


I have been doing a lot of research lately on other solvents and protectants, as well as reading up on other people's methods. I've noticed quite a few people have mentioned that Hoppe's is no longer as effective as it used to be.

[fritztkatt]

Try doing it backwards next time. See if using hoppes after clp will give the same result. If it does, then I'd say they clean different things.

It may also be possible that during the time you spend cleaning, the solvents have time to react with the filth and that's why you're seeing it get removed with clp. Maybe the hoppes is breaking it up, but the clp actually removes it? Maybe just the friction from the patches is loosening it up so the it finally comes out after you use clp?

Check out the clp thread in the semi-auto rifle section. I tested seafoam and found it to be lack-luster in bore cleaning compared to clp, but light-years ahead in general carbon cleanup.

What caliber(s) are you using this method on? There are different solvents for copper, lead, and powder, no? Do you use nylon, or brass/bronze? Have you tried running a patch in between pulls of the brush to clear the loose junk instead of spreading it around? What happens if you use a bore snake?

[LT1Silverhawk]

Thank you fritzkatt, for all that information. I will try it backwards the next time I clean and report back.


I am doing this procedure on .22 and 9mm.


I am using brass brushes. I have not run a patch between brush pulls.


I do not have a boresnake for the 9mm (its currently on my shopping list). I do have two of them (eBay knock offs) for the ,22, but I for the life of me cannot get them to pull through the barrel. Even after reading about the being tight, I gave it all I had but they would not budge. I'm thinking I was sent the wrong size both times.

[Click Boom]

Hoppes is stronger than CLP.

[tbc]

Although Hoppe's aroma is nice but you need to stop sniffing this stuff. The benzene in Hoppe's is pretty nasty (toxic).


Sent from my iPhone

[Hairball]

#9 is more for removing lead/metal fouling, powder residue and rust. While clp does clean somewhat, it's more of a lubricating and preservative ( hence the name CLP). If you are using both, I would use the #9 first..JMHO

[357magnum]

Hoppe's #9 and CLP (40 yrs for Hoppe's #9 & 35 yrs for CLP) are all I use for every gun I have ever owned.
There might be newer and supposedly better stuff out there, but this combo works great for me. If you find something that works, don't mess with it.

[LT1Silverhawk]

Thank you everyone for the helpful feedback.

Although Hoppe's aroma is nice but you need to stop sniffing this stuff. The benzene in Hoppe's is pretty nasty (toxic).


Sent from my iPhone

Lol got it.

#9 is more for removing lead/metal fouling, powder residue and rust. While clp does clean somewhat, it's more of a lubricating and preservative ( hence the name CLP). If you are using both, I would use the #9 first..JMHO

Yep, that's the order of my cleaning procedure: Hoppe's first, followed by CLP.

[wpage]

Both are effective solvents.

[SkyHawk]

Going back 25+ years, to when #9 had cancer causing ingredients and trace nuclear waste (aka, the good stuff) - even after getting clean patches, just running some light oil down the bore on a clean patch would always bring back a dirty patch. Not sure why, that is just the way it is.

I use #9 followed by CLP now. I recently started using #9 again after having used only CLP for many years, and noticed it doesn't smell the way I remember it used to.

[Agent 0range]

I haven't used #9 in a while. I replaced it with M-pro7 so I could clean my guns in the kitchen without my wife complaining about the intoxicating aroma of Hoppes. However, tonight I used it to clean my AK because Tula just seems to be so dirty. I used the same routine of #9 with jag and patch, then brass brush, jag and patches until clean, followed by CLP. I noticed the same issue of dirty patches with the CLP. I don't seem to have this problem using M-Pro7, or at least not nearly as noticible.

[Jeepergeo]

CLP is the only thing you need most of the time. If your barrel gets leaded or coppered up, then Hoppes or BreakFree Bore Foam can be used, followed by CLP.

[BrassCase]

I've used #9 and CLP, #9 probably works better. Lately I've been using Ballistol and KROIL which I think both work better than CLP or #9. I don't think #9 has benzene anymore in it, unfortunately. What I do now is to get the bore wet and then use a copper brush to scrub it. Then several wet patches followed by the brush again which then yields a black wet patch. I use several wet patches and then back to the brush until I get clean wet patches. Clean your barrel and then run a wet brush down it several times followed by wet patches and I'll bet you'll see that your barrel wasn't really clean.

[LT1Silverhawk]

Thank you all for the continued feedback and tips.

I haven't used #9 in a while. I replaced it with M-pro7 so I could clean my guns in the kitchen without my wife complaining about the intoxicating aroma of Hoppes. However, tonight I used it to clean my AK because Tula just seems to be so dirty. I used the same routine of #9 with jag and patch, then brass brush, jag and patches until clean, followed by CLP. I noticed the same issue of dirty patches with the CLP. I don't seem to have this problem using M-Pro7, or at least not nearly as noticible.

The M-Pro7 is the one I am debating about trying next once my bottle of Hoppe's runs out. That or Butch's Bore Shine.

I've used #9 and CLP, #9 probably works better. Lately I've been using Ballistol and KROIL which I think both work better than CLP or #9. I don't think #9 has benzene anymore in it, unfortunately. What I do now is to get the bore wet and then use a copper brush to scrub it. Then several wet patches followed by the brush again which then yields a black wet patch. I use several wet patches and then back to the brush until I get clean wet patches. Clean your barrel and then run a wet brush down it several times followed by wet patches and I'll bet you'll see that your barrel wasn't really clean.

Thanks, I think I will "re-clean" my handgun tonight using this procedure to see what comes out.

[81turbota]

My normal cleaning regimen is Hoppes No. 9 followed by CLP as a final protectant before the firearm is stored. CLP does a great job at long term deep cleaning as well - guns that produce a clean patch at the end of a cleaning session will produce a slightly grey patch when I run one through a month or two later. Both CLP and Hoppes No.9 are great stuff!