Advice on Cleaning Kits

[omgwtfbbq]

Hello All,

Recently I've been thinking about my firearms hobby/addiction and have been feeling that the major area in which I lack knowledge is in cleaning and servicing guns. I find a lot of my friends and coworkers (LEOs) are weak in this area too. I think it's important and would be an additional hobby to kill time when the funds for a new build or gun aren't in the cards.

To start out I'm moving into a new place this weekend where I'll have a spare room. I'm planning to put in a small work bench and vice and getting some basic armorer's tools to start working on and deep cleaning firearms.

Where I'm really hung up is on cleaning tools. I have no idea what brands are better quality and what is essential for an armorer/amateur gunsmith to have. Cleaning tool kits range in price from $15 to well over $100. I don't know if something is good simply because it's expensive or not.

I'm a blank slate so any help or advice you can lend about the subject will be great. Thank you in advance for your information.

[Merc1138]

Most "kits" aren't worth a crap. They tend to come with a crappy multi-piece rod, attachments for bore sizes you don't actually need, and so on. It's really best to just buy what you need in terms of rods, jags, brushes, solvents, etc.

[lone shooter]

OP,

You're going to get a bunch of different answers as to what brand is better because it's all personal preference. That said, as for tools, I like Otis because they are American made and very good quality without breaking the bank. Not sure what/how many different cambers you have to but for me this set takes care of about 85% of what I have. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They sell loose parts to build on that kit. Chemicals are a whole different ball game.

GL

[22socal40]

I use breakthrough cleaning products, great stuff IMO, check it out

[russ69]

One piece rods, brushes, and an old tee shirt. What else do you want to know?

[JDay]

If you can afford it I'd get a Hornady Hot Tub.

http://m.hornady.com/store/Hornady-Hot-Tub-9L

[klewan]

OP, be sure to get the cleaning rod and attachments with a screw thread that no body else uses. That way you're tied into them and they can charge whatever price they want. You can thank me later....

[omgwtfbbq]

I'm most concerned with the tools themselves. Slip 2000 CLP and Hoppes 9 solvent has always done fine for me.

Can anyone recommend a quality one piece cleaning rod?

[Zorba]

I dunno if you're talking pistol or rifle, but I like this one for the former:

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Shot-22--45-Caliber-Universal-Pistol/dp/B003RVKK8G/

Along with this muzzle guard:

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Shot-Fits-22--26-Caliber-Rods/dp/B005KW45GI/

YMMV...

[surfbum]

http://www.amazon.com/Remington-Hunting-Cleaning-Maintenance-Kit/dp/B008FQIR42

I just picked this one up. Decided it would be a good starter basis since I recently aquired 3 rifles of different calibers along with my 2 pistols. The squeege system is nice and completely cleans the barrel. Look into it. I am happy as of now.

[RandyD]

When it comes to cleaning a firearm, you want to remove carbon, unburnt powder and any other dust, dirt, lead and copper from the action and barrel.

For dissassembling the action, so you can clean it, you may or may not need specific tools. Those tools will be specific to your firearm. To clean a firearm about all you need are solvent, toothbrush, Q-Tips, rags, and maybe pipe cleaners. I also like to use dental picks to break off carbon deposits, which you can purchase on ebay or at a gun show.

To clean a barrel, the one piece coated cleaning rods are much less likely to damage your barrel than a multi-piece uncoated steel rod. You can purchase these rods at Midway, Brownells and a number of other firearm accessory websites. You need a brush that is specific to your barrel's bore and can buy these on the same listed websites.

As far as solvent, Hoppes #9 is a standard, you may want something specific for carbon, lead and copper. Copper deposits in a handgun's barrel are uncommon due to the muzzle velocity is not very high. Copper deposits in a rifle barrel are more common due to the higher muzzle velocity. Lead and carbon can usually be removed with elbow grease.

Hope this helps

[003]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WRO17sk_dI&list=PLACF2AEF0EC711484

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhTwVOh0_ik

[thomashoward]

One piece rods, brushes, and an old tee shirt. What else do you want to know?

pretty much it. Except patches for various calibers

[-hanko]

Really all you need to know...

You should always clean your guns after every use - except when you shouldn't. Powder residue will corrode your barrel except you'll wear your barrel out cleaning it. Softer than gunmetal bronze and/or nylon brushes can't possibly wear your barrel out but never use cotton patches as they'll ruin the crown and wear the barrel prematurely. You should always coat the inside of a freshly cleaned barrel with gun oil, except that will hydro-lock your gun next time you fire it so you really should use {insert fave brand of CLP here}. Dirty barrels are far more accurate than clean ones except nothing centers like a freshly cleaned barrel. Barrel accuracy degrades, and corrosion sets in after the third round, except for the guy who has shot exactly 15,348,723 rounds since the last cleaning and his barrel looks brand new. The previous is only valid if you use {insert fave brand of ammo here}. If you use {insert hated brand of ammo here}, your barrel will tie itself into a knot, and your cat will barf on your computer keyboard. Match shooters clean their barrels every 10-15 rounds, except the champ who has never cleaned his 50 Y.O. gun. Hoppe's #9 was good enough for grandpa, its good enough for me; but its outdated and you really should use {insert fave CLP here}. You should only run patches with a loop unless you're using a jag. Never use bronze brushes, nylon ones are clearly inferior. You'll wear your gun out cleaning it, except you'll wear it out from the unburned grit and glass particles left by every shot! Don't ever let your cleaning rod touch the inside of the barrel as soft aluminum will damage a hard steel barrel, except that the aluminum oxide on the soft aluminum rod will abrade the barrel. But soft brass/bronze rods won't hurt anything except you should use stainless steel as it doesn't flex as much. Don't forget to always brush or swab from the breech to the muzzle as this is the way the bullet travels - except swabbing/brushing from the muzzle to the breech reverses the the "flow" of crud so it won't migrate from the chamber to the farthest parts of the barrel. If you shot corrosive ammo, spray Windex down the barrel but never use ammonia under these circumstances, put your gun in the dishwasher instead.

A good, stiff cleaning rod is best; especially when it is a nice flexible cleaning cord. One should always use a 1 piece rod, the 3 sectioned ones travel better. Clean your gun at the range, but its OK to wait until you get home. Never use {whatever} to clean your rifle, it will cause flash rust within .0352 microseconds; its far better to use {another whatever} because it will cause buildup that will clog your barrel the very first time its used.

Its best to use the {whatever military} cleaning technique except its outdated and ineffective; better to use the technique employed by {whatever police dept.} as everyone knows all cops' guns are perpetually dirty. The 15 step, all intensive, 3 hour, 18 patch method is best, just run 1 patch through the bbl and throw the gun back in the truck for next time.

[russ69]

One piece rods, brushes, and an old tee shirt. What else do you want to know?

pretty much it. Except patches for various calibers

That's what the old tee shirt is for!