Thread for Choke or Not?

[bigdawg86]

I picked up a Remington 1100 that is well worn and bone stock with the standard 28" barrel. I decided to make this my next project by increasing capacity and getting it Cerakoted. This is my first (and likely only) shotgun and I don't foresee getting another one any time soon.

It will be used primarily for HD and range use, but since I won't be getting a new one any time soon I am thinking about getting it threaded for a choke for if I go bird hunting.

What would you do? Thread for choke? No Choke?
Why or why not?

What are typical costs involved for getting the barrel threaded? I don't really want to buy separate barrels at this point.

Thanks in advance.

[Sicarius]

I personally would look for another barrel if you are looking for more of an HD setup. It can be done but when you thread a barrel, the walls are already going to be thin. Then you have to buy special chokes for the thin wall chokes which are fairly expensive. It might be cheaper to buy a barrel and a nice perk to have an extra barrel if you wanna shoot trap or something.
Kevin

[bigdawg86]

I personally would look for another barrel if you are looking for more of an HD setup. It can be done but when you thread a barrel, the walls are already going to be thin. Then you have to buy special chokes for the thin wall chokes which are fairly expensive. It might be cheaper to buy a barrel and a nice perk to have an extra barrel if you wanna shoot trap or something.
Kevin

Ya I guess that makes sense. Considering a Rem-choke barrel is about 250 bucks it would make more sense to get a hunting specific barrel.

Now what about cutting down the barrel? I am setting it up to be 10+1 with a Nordic extension tube that I would like to be (about) flush with the barrel. Any recommendations on cutting down a barrel?

[hermosabeach]

If you cut the barrel you lose the factory choke.

After you cut it down, measure your longest straight shot from the muzzle to the opposite side of the room or hallway.

Then pattern the shotgun at that range.

This pattern will tell you if you need to add a choke.

You can also use federal flight control was OO buck to tighten the pattern.


If you have access to a bandsaw then chopping a barrel is an easier process to ensure the cut is square. Start the cut at 18 1/2" or greater to all for extra room when trueing up the muzzle.

You could also practice by cutting it at 26" then 24" etc to verify that this is within you skill set.

If you have a ribbed barrel, you want to cut at a solid point in the rib. Is where the rib contacts the barrel.

Two other thoughts
Pay a smith to trim the barrel and to drill/ adjust gas ports for a shorter barrel.

Buy a second barrel so you can still shoot clays with the 28"

[Sicarius]

If you are looking for the flush look with the extension, Buy the extension and install it first then see where to cut. Without the extension installed, it is just speculation as far as how much of the barrel needs to be cut.
If you are good with a hacksaw, you can cut it down and use a file to true it up. Then wrap a golf ball with sand paper and you can take the edge off the inside. Definitely the ghetto way of doing it but it has been done. For the rib, it is all preference but you can cut through an unsupported portion. Just simply grind or cut off the overhang and put an angle on the support. The angle will help keep the barrel from getting caught up or hang on something... something like this.


Kevin

[SilentPea]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/837364/remington-barrel-remington-1100-competition-master-12-gauge-2-3-4-22-rem-choke-with-modified-choke-tube-vent-rib

The 22" competition barrel is a solid option for a maneuverable HD/3-gun 1100. You are much less likely to need gas system tuning (like the 18.5 barrels) and the +3 extensions are just about flush w/ the muzzle.

If you throw in a set of choke tubes, it should group plenty well enough for everything short of ducks.

$250ish sounds expensive, but considering what a nice shop (briley, etc) are asking to chop/thread a barrel -- it's totally worth it.

(Briley pricing: $200 for threading+a few chokes, $75 for a cut/crown.... http://www.briley.com/chokeinstallationpricing.aspx )

[moneymike]

If you are looking for the flush look with the extension, Buy the extension and install it first then see where to cut. Without the extension installed, it is just speculation as far as how much of the barrel needs to be cut.
If you are good with a hacksaw, you can cut it down and use a file to true it up. Then wrap a golf ball with sand paper and you can take the edge off the inside. Definitely the ghetto way of doing it but it has been done. For the rib, it is all preference but you can cut through an unsupported portion. Just simply grind or cut off the overhang and put an angle on the support. The angle will help keep the barrel from getting caught up or hang on something... something like this.


Kevin

That's pretty slick, I want to do something similar for my 870 Express

[SilentPea]

That's pretty slick, I want to do something similar for my 870 Express

Bam! (out of stock, but 21" vent rib barrel for 3" 870)

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/399781/remington-barrel-remington-870-12-gauge-3-21-rem-choke-with-extra-full-turkey-choke-tube-vent-rib-matte-black