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I was given an old Winchester single shot .410 shotty. It looks similar to a Model 20, but the stock is different up front. The gun doesn't have any serial numbers or even a model number. The butt of the stock has the Winchester label on it. The side of the receiver has Stevens stamped on it. I believe the trademark year is 1913. I will try to get some pictures posted soon.
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If the receiver says Stevens on it, it's probably not a Winny, it's probably a Stevens with a Winchester butt plate.sigpic
Bob B.
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That is what I thought, but if that's the case this was done a very long time ago. It also looks like a factory job (as in perfect). I will post pics by the weekend.Comment
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OK, looking more like its a J. Stevens... Here are some pics. Note, I took pics of any and all stamped markings on the gun, no serial numbers anywhere visible. From how it feels, I think with a general cleaning it would fire without issue.
_DSC9196 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr
_DSC9198 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr
_DSC9199 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr
This is where you can see a difference between what a Model 20 Winchester looks like...
_DSC9200 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr
This makes me wonder about its age, I haven't seen any other guns showing 12 M-M for a shell size.
_DSC9201 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr
Lots of surface rust, even though it has been in a closet with camera gear for 50 years. The wife of the original owner said her husband got the gun as a boy, he died at age 90.
_DSC9203 by Kevin.Woodard, on Flickr
Where the confusion started.
_DSC9204 by Kevin.Woodard, on FlickrLast edited by trikster; 07-25-2013, 12:49 PM.Comment
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Definitely a Stevens. The Winchester buttplate was probably added to replace a broken one, fairly common to do so.
Serial numbers became mandatory in 1968.
Use some '0000' steel wool with oil, that will remove a fair amount of loose rust.Comment
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Do you happen to know a model number? Would like to get more info on it. Any value other than sentimental? I am thinking of restoring it and using it as a shooter.Comment
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I would clean it up, and if you really want to shoot it, wear plenty of protective apparel and a safety shield on your face. Good luck.sigpic
Bob B.
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The barrel is steel, proofed for smokeless, good chance it's a 2.5" chamber. Don't use steel wool, it will remove the blue. Use bronze wool, and soak the rust with Kroil or ATF first. Soak the bronze wool in the same. When you "think" you have all the rust off, spray it off with "non-chlorinated" brake cleaner. Any rust you missed will light up neon orange. Repeat the wool/oil as needed. Then after a final rinse with brake cleaner, soak it good with CLP.Comment
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Where are you getting the bronze wool? Do you think that I should be cautions in firing it? I thought that was only for Damascus steel that you had to worry... I can't imagine a .410 2 1/2" would have that issue...Comment
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ACE Hardware carries the bronze or copper wool, if you don't see it, ask for it, and they'll get some.
I can't remember off hand if Stevens marked the chamber length on the gun. If it's marked, it'll be on the barrel, maybe on the "water table" on the receiver under the chamber. Many of the early guns were chambered for the 2.5" .410, that was developed from the .44XL shot cartridge.
Check the bore for pitting, if it's clean, the gun locks up tight, it's safe to shoot. The barrel is not Damascus, it's smokeless steel.Comment
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Pretty cool old gun. I've got a couple old .410s similar to this. Take your time on this and it will last another 100 years.
Look online for a manual. Numrich and Brownells have them for $1-2 sometimes. Carefully take all the wood off and then treat with 0000 brass/bronze wool. Very gently, this will take time. Almost no effort and the top rust will slowly come off.
If you let the oil soak into the wood, it will blacken and stain it. Kroil, gun oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF, etc. Most of these will work depending on how much of the smell you can take. Wear gloves for sure.NRA LIFE MemberComment
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Last edited by rick.benjamin; 07-26-2013, 4:08 PM.Comment
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