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Trap - Away and up - Where to Aim?

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  • Charles4400
    Member
    • Aug 2009
    • 349

    Trap - Away and up - Where to Aim?

    Was shooting some trap today and did very well on the crossing targets but for some reason I was having problems on the 'easy' shots going straigt away and up from you.

    Just wanted to check to see where you are supposed to aim for those types of shots...under it (which is what I was doing) , directly on it (bead covering it) or slightly above it (since it is going up)????

    Yes I know, should be easy, so please tell me what I'm doing wrong!
  • #2
    Kodemonkey
    • Jun 2010
    • 2904

    tagged. I have the same problem and I don't know why either.

    Comment

    • #3
      AAShooter
      CGN/CGSSA Contributor
      CGN Contributor
      • May 2010
      • 7188

      I assume you are talking about skeet. Trap does not have crossing targets.

      Comment

      • #4
        NoNOS67
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2008
        • 2161

        Originally posted by Charles4400
        Was shooting some trap today and did very well on the crossing targets but for some reason I was having problems on the 'easy' shots going straigt away and up from you.

        Just wanted to check to see where you are supposed to aim for those types of shots...under it (which is what I was doing) , directly on it (bead covering it) or slightly above it (since it is going up)????

        Yes I know, should be easy, so please tell me what I'm doing wrong!
        Most misses are low and/or behind. Try aiming a bit above the target.

        Comment

        • #5
          Kodemonkey
          • Jun 2010
          • 2904

          Originally posted by AAShooter
          I assume you are talking about skeet. Trap does not have crossing targets.
          Not sure about the original poster, but I have problems with the straight up and down shots that you would think would be easier than the ones going far left or far right in trap.

          Comment

          • #6
            AAShooter
            CGN/CGSSA Contributor
            CGN Contributor
            • May 2010
            • 7188

            Assuming you are talking skeet, this brochure should help: http://www.remington.com/~/media/Fil...tals_2004.ashx

            Here is a similar one for trap: http://www.remington.com/~/media/Fil...tals_2004.ashx

            Comment

            • #7
              AAShooter
              CGN/CGSSA Contributor
              CGN Contributor
              • May 2010
              • 7188

              For targets traveling away from you, there is very little perceived lead needed. Since the shot string largely travels up the same path as the bird, not much "lead is needed". So it is not uncommon for people to swing aggressively to get to the bird and then swing over the top of it with the shot. This happens a great deal for trap shooters on station 3 with a straight-away. The same can be true when standing at the low house at skeet and shooting a low-house bird.

              Targets traveling perpendicular to the travel of the shot string require more lead. The problem is to make sure you are projecting the path of travel for the leading edge of the target correctly. Many people in these situation shoot "behind" the bird. Swinging more aggressively in front of the bird will often lead to success.

              The nice thing about the clays sports, is the mind can learn this very quickly. Since the bird breaking provides instant feedback, the mind gets good sight pictures reinforced immediately.

              Finally, maintaining the cheek weld when shooting is essential. Losing it destroys the sighting system in shotgunning. Many shooters will break that to look at the target or in a fast crossing target that crosses from the shooters support-side to the shooter's strong-side. This leaves you with no solid reference for the shot.
              Last edited by AAShooter; 08-26-2012, 10:19 PM.

              Comment

              • #8
                Charles4400
                Member
                • Aug 2009
                • 349

                Originally posted by AAShooter
                Assuming you are talking skeet, this brochure should help: http://www.remington.com/~/media/Fil...tals_2004.ashx

                Here is a similar one for trap: http://www.remington.com/~/media/Fil...tals_2004.ashx
                Thanks for the link to the articles I haven't read through them yet but will..thanks!

                I am talking about trap...sorry your right, I don't mean crossing targets but the targets that shoot out far left or far right. If your on station 1 or 5 these would be the targets witht he most angle from you.

                Those type targets I do well on, like kodemonkey though the targets that shoot out and up with the least angle I frustratingly tend to miss more.

                For those targets I think the slight rise is messing me up... assuming cheek weld is good would you suggest aiming directly on the target or slightly above it?

                I need to get back out there and see waht I'm doing wrong...missing easy shots is frustrating!!!

                Comment

                • #9
                  Kodemonkey
                  • Jun 2010
                  • 2904

                  Originally posted by Charles4400
                  I need to get back out there and see waht I'm doing wrong...missing easy shots is frustrating!!!
                  I hear you. I am at the point that I will be getting private instruction once it cools down. The wife and I have really started to get into the sport now and we have reached a level where we need some expert advice.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Peashooter
                    Member
                    • Dec 2007
                    • 324

                    My dad was a competition trap shooter in AZ back in the 60-70s He taught me to shoot clays.. For going away birds swing through and coverup the bird and follow through with the shot. Always on the rise,
                    Last edited by Peashooter; 08-26-2012, 10:40 PM.
                    Ca. Where a .38 and a shotgun is an arsonal.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      AAShooter
                      CGN/CGSSA Contributor
                      CGN Contributor
                      • May 2010
                      • 7188

                      I think page 11 in the trap brochure referenced above will help with lead. For most right handed shooters, a hard right bird shot on Station 5 is the one where the shooter is most likely to pull the gun away from their cheek as they swing to catch the bird.

                      Also the diagram as far as hold position is important. Both foot position and hold point for the shotgun change depending on the station. This positions the shooter in a position so they can easily cover the range of targets thrown relative to that position. The hold position helps minimize gun movement necessary to hit the targets as well as improve visibility of the targets. Finally, some shooters find that holding slightly lower or higher on the trap house will make them more successful. For example, some will hold about 6" off the top of the trap house.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        KWalkerM
                        Senior Member
                        • Apr 2012
                        • 2032

                        dont lead as much. if you have a field gun, cover the bird. if you have a trap or over under gun then shoot under. it all has to do with where your gun shoots. the other thing, is dont lead it as much as you think you need, i can almost guarantee you are shooting over the bird. i had this problem and fixed it by slowing down my swing because i was too aggressive

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          BigDogatPlay
                          Calguns Addict
                          • Jun 2007
                          • 7362

                          There is good advice in the thread above, particularly (as always) AAShooter. I get best results with my students keeping the bead just at the front roof line of the trap house when they set up, and their vision is focused on the field beyond the house. They (and I) seem to get the best look at the bird that way. The Remington brochure linked above is about the best advice around on paper and the techniques it describes can improve scores and understanding greatly.

                          Part of the answer goes around the gun you are shooting. Different guns shoot to different points of aim. For instance, my go to 1100 shoots pretty flat so on the straightaways, when the bead gets to the bottom of the bird the trigger gets pulled. Proper follow through and keeping a solid cheek weld should result in a puff of dust where the bird used to be and typically does. OTOH, I shot a new BT-99 on Saturday which is set up to shoot somewhat high. Once I had it figured out I found that I needed a good finger width of air between the bottom of the bird and the bead on straightaways, otherwise I was shooting well over the top of them.

                          This is why it's important to pattern your gun with a few different loads and find where it shoots relative to your point of aim.
                          Last edited by BigDogatPlay; 08-27-2012, 6:42 AM.
                          -- Rifle, Pistol, Shotgun

                          Not a lawyer, just a former LEO proud to have served.

                          Americans have the right and advantage of being armed - unlike the citizens of other countries whose governments are afraid to trust the people with arms. -- James Madison

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                          • #14
                            fishnbeer
                            Senior Member
                            • Sep 2010
                            • 771



                            "Easy, you just dont lead em' so much!"

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              KWalkerM
                              Senior Member
                              • Apr 2012
                              • 2032

                              Originally posted by BigDogatPlay
                              There is good advice in the thread above, particularly (as always) AAShooter. I get best results with my students keeping the bead just at the front roof line of the trap house when they set up, and their vision is focused on the field beyond the house. They (and I) seem to get the best look at the bird that way. The Remington brochure linked above is about the best advice around on paper and the techniques it describes can improve scores and understanding greatly.

                              Part of the answer goes around the gun you are shooting. Different guns shoot to different points of aim. For instance, my go to 1100 shoots pretty flat so on the straightaways, when the bead gets to the bottom of the bird the trigger gets pulled. Proper follow through and keeping a solid cheek weld should result in a puff of dust where the bird used to be and typically does. OTOH, I shot a new BT-99 on Saturday which is set up to shoot somewhat high. Once I had it figured out I found that I needed a good finger width of air between the bottom of the bird and the bead on straightaways, otherwise I was shooting well over the top of them.

                              This is why it's important to pattern your gun with a few different loads and find where it shoots relative to your point of aim.
                              i was under the impression a high gun above the house was better for trap. all you need to do is move the guns left or right. provided you can shoot with bothe eyes open

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