Should I do a Duracoat refinish?

[CK_32]

Just wondering if duracoating my new 870 is a good idea. How does that do with oils and rusting and pitting? I know it takes wear well and holds up but what about protecting from rust and protecting the metals?

The gun I got has some scuffs and I've been told the express has a eh finish anyways. I was thinking putting a flat black finish on it with one of their $30 kits or having someone spray it for me if it's cost effective.

Another note for a basic protecting clean flat finish what would I need to get which kit I went to their site expecting to get their kit but there is like optional get this get that get this add this on and have no clue what any of it does. I just want a simple shake n spray or airbrush job or kit to clean her up and protect the finish for cheap.

[barca101]

I've also been contemplating of getting my 870 Cerakoted, not Duracoated. I guess in Cerakote the material conforms with the object like twisting and flexing that may prevent flaking making it more durable. I asked about disassembling the shotgun myself and reassembling it to save cost. The only part I don't like about taking it apart and putting it back together is after the finish is already on, it may make assembly difficult b/c a layer of finish that may make it difficult to put back.

I guess if your going to tackle the job, just be careful not to spray so much.

[CK_32]

Yea exactly I've been told its easy to do but I always thought it was just a simple pack you buy but they have so many differsnt options on their site I'm lost now.

And I feel cerakote is over kill IMO I just want to reprint my barrel tube and receiver. Don't plan on painting the stock or anything else just protect it a little more from rusting and scratches.

But if I can find someone to do a decent job for relatively cheap that's fine I just have a feeling if I take it to a smith it will be over priced and shotty work.

[Dozen Gauge]

Look at Brownell's AlumaHyde II finish. Their site has video's of the process. One can will be more than enough. Preparation is the most important part.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1117/Product/ALUMA-HYDE-reg-II

This is coated with Matt Black Alumahyde II

[Jax Smirking Revenge]

I did my 870 and was thoroughly impressed with the results. Duracoat claims that you can leave your gun in the ocean for seven years after applying their product and it will be in operating condition when you pull it up. In other words, the point of Duracoat is for rust prevention. It has proven to live up to its claims so far. It has been three years so far and not a speck of rust in any of my three Duracoated weapons. I have intentionally left oil and silicone treatments off of the non moving areas to test it. So far so good.

[Dark Sky Solutions]

Yes, Duracoat does protect from rust also. You can spray Duracoat .25 mil thick up to 1.5 mil thick in high wear/rub areas. I prefer Duracoat over CK myself. If you really want to get the ultimate protection on any (steel)gun you need to parkerize it, then duracoat it whatever color you want. That thing will last thru the apocalypse after that treatment.

[Jax Smirking Revenge]

Agreed about Duracoat on parkerized surfaces. My 870 began life parkerized and the Duracoat absolutely loved that surface and has been excellent. As with all surface treatments, prep is everything though.

[CK_32]

I have an express magnum.. I never could figure out exactly what those were too many it's tho no ts that. And what prep could you do wih out unparkerizing it?

[SJgunguy24]

If you have a way to bake the gun I would use Moly Resin or KG Gunkote. If you can't bake I would go with Alumahyde2. I've used Duracoat and can't stand it, one it makes me sick, two after 3 weeks of curing it wiped off with a little acetone. I've been able to paint stuff with krylon and not have it come off with acetone.

[Dakine_surf]

If you have a way to bake the gun I would use Moly Resin or KG Gunkote. If you can't bake I would go with Alumahyde2. I've used Duracoat and can't stand it, one it makes me sick, two after 3 weeks of curing it wiped off with a little acetone. I've been able to paint stuff with krylon and not have it come off with acetone.

If it came off that easy, you did something wrong... Prep is key, I spend anywhere from 3 to 8 hours prepping most guns. Also proper cure time is important, Lauer claims 1 hour to dry and 24 hours to put the gun back together, and then 3 to 4 days till you can shoot.

It could be that I live near the ocean, but I wait 3 to 4 days to even touch it, and then give it a full 2 weeks to cure in a warm dry place (incubator oven.) It is hard to explain but when you tap the metal, You will notice the sound go a thud to a ting. Once that has happened the stuff is crazy strong.

Cerakote is stronger still but is baked on, and requires a lot more prep (bead blasting.) Cerakote is also a little more expensive.