shot sizes and choke tubes

[jbush]

So I've put the rifles and handguns away, and got out the shotguns. Haven't shot a shotgun in 8 years or so and then only a few times. Can someone explain the different shot sizes and there uses and the basics of choke tubes.

To confuse the issue a little bit, I have a 12, 20 and 410 all Remington 870 pumps and want to shoot clays. Due to health reasons I don't hunt anymore and I'm guessing since I have a bad shoulder that I'll probably favor the 20 gauge.

Is there a specific shot size for each gauge that's best for shooting clays, or do I use the same size with each? What about choke tubes?

I picked up a Trius 1 Step online and thought moving targets might be more exciting then punching holes in paper

Thanks, John

[Revoman]

Can someone explain the different shot sizes and there uses and the basics of choke tubes.

Shot sizes range from size 12, being the smallest, (almost sand-like) to 00 buck (.32 caliber). In general, for most of the clays games, shot sizes 7.5, 8, 8.5 and 9 are usually best. Depending on the game you plan to shoot, 7.5 to 8 is normally good for trap because the target is flying farther away from you and you need heavier shot to carry the inertia in order to break a clay target at a distance. 8.5 to 9 is more along the lines of skeet, where targets are generally about 21 to 25 yards away and do not fly away from you....mostly, there are a couple of stations that happens, but in general, not. Sporting or 5-Stand is normally also shot with 7.5 to 8 shot size. You would do well to visit one of the shotgunning forums or a shotgun book to learn more. I could write a lot of stuff here, but you might be better served by a good shotshell loading manual.

The basics of choke tubes are: Cylinder, Modified and Full chokes. Cylinder allowing the widest of patterns at about 40 yards and Full allowing the tightest. Modified is in-between and generally used for much of the hunting/sporting clays stuff, depending of course on what the game is. While Cylinder has the widest pattern, you gotta remember that it also allows more 'holes' in the pattern, meaning that a clay or game bird can slip through those gaps creating a miss. The full choke allows almost zero holes because of the tighter restriction. Does this mean more hits? Not necessarily because since the pattern is tighter, there is less margin for error because the clay may be just outside of that pattern. Modified, while a good choice, is supposed to be the fix for both scenarios above, but it's not always the right choice either, but more often than not. If your game is trap, you would do well with a Modified, if it's skeet, then a Skeet choke should be used. A Skeet choke is slightly more restricted than a Cylinder choke and since the clays are closer, it allows for few misses due to the holes in the pattern. There a MANY more chokes out there, but you asked for the basics.


To confuse the issue a little bit, I have a 12, 20 and 410 all Remington 870 pumps and want to shoot clays. Due to health reasons I don't hunt anymore and I'm guessing since I have a bad shoulder that I'll probably favor the 20 gauge.

All of the above are appropriate 'gauges' for different reasons. While 12 gauge is the universal gauge and can be used for anything the 20 pretty much can have the same ballistics as there are plenty of different loadings for the 20 that make it close to the 12 in most aspects. The problem with using the 20 and trying to attain 12 ballistics is that many times the powder/shot charge must be bumped in order to do so, the 20 being a lighter gun usually, will tend to recoil a little more because of those factors. I would be leary of using a 20 instead of a 12 for that reason. The 410 however is usually used for close in work, such as skeet, it can be used for trap, but is not the ideal gauge, or bore as it is really called, to perform up to task. You can also get 12 gauge in low recoiling shells and they are truly low recoiling yet also allow the larger shot pattern that a 20 or 410 cannot quite do. Think larger diameter v smaller diameter here as the shot column in a 12 is larger in diameter it is more conducive to larger patterning.

[BigDogatPlay]

A lot of good advice above. Worth pointing out that in clay games the .410 is largely an experts choice, and shooting .410 in volume commands reloading. Those little shells get hella expensive.

Depending on how much shooting you want to do... participating in a club shoot, for instance, can involve 200 rounds or more in an afternoon, a 20 gauge gun may be a good place to start. 12 gauge loads at 1100 fps or so won't beat you up badly but most factory clay and sporting type loads run faster than that. Mounting the gun properly goes a long, long way to reducing wear and tear on you.

7.5 and 8 are perhaps the most commonly used sizes in trap. I generally shoot loads with 1 ounce of #8 shot and I get very good results. I've used the same load on 5 stand sporting clays and had good results.

For trap, as noted above, a modified choke is a very good place to begin. As you improve, or start shooting farther back than 16 yards from the house, you'll likely tighten up the choke. Many experienced trap shooters often shoot full choke only.

FWIW... singles trap and sporting clay games can be played very effectively with a pump or semi-auto. Skeet is an entirely different game and is often best fired with some manner of double gun, usually an over / under. I know guys who shoot doubles trap with semi-autos, but the majority use an over / under for doubles, as do I.

[ysr_racer]

Shoot number 8's at everything, you'll be fine.

[jbush]

I appreciate the great advice. Thanks alot, it gives me a great starting point.