Trusty Rusty PLEASE HELP

[BayAreaShooter]

Well to no ones surprise my 870 is rusty once again. I can not keep this thing from rusting. I believe it is because I never fully remove it and it just keeps coming back. In the past I just try to remove it by soaking it in Hoppes #9 and light swirling motion than oil to remove the solvent. It seems to work for a bit or maybe it is just making it so I can not see it. I need some advice on how to remove the rust for good. I would like to keep the finish as is even though it is crappy but I honestly could care less if it gets messed up if the rust is removed for good. Thank you in advance.

[aippi]

The matte finish in an area with high humidity is going to be an issue. There are great products out there and the guys will post in with some good stuff like CLP and others.

However, there is a question of how you are storing it. Are you by chance keeping it a gun case? If so, then this a big NO. Keep it in your safe or even leaning up in the closet but never in a case. Many of the cases have a lining that contributes to the issue of rusting.

[Donkeypunch0420]

You can try one of those silicon bags. Here's a link:

http://dsafe.stores.yahoo.net/masaulingunp.html

I've used baking soda and a toothbrush to get rid of rust with great success. This was on a stainless gun though, so YMMV.

[emilio]

d'oh! persistent rust sucks. what do you put on it? how do you store it? +1 for avoiding gun cases, and if you don't have a safe (yet) and must keep it locked up then get some desiccant packs and dehumidify them often. air out your gun case at home if it's ever closed up in a damp environment.

one of the last, best solutions for surface rust is wax. i've used Boeshield T-9 (paraffin wax in a petroleum solvent base) on blued guns and carbon steel tools to great effect, just follow the instructions and make sure it dries undisturbed. a cheaper and more aggressive way is to literally wax the gun: rub all the outside surfaces with a block of paraffin.

take off the stock and separate the receiver, bolt, barrel, and pump, then degrease each part before you rub it down (don't leave degreased parts sitting out). it would probably help to warm the metal in the oven (well under 150) or with a heat gun, and warm the wax just a bit, too. while it's still a bit warm, lightly rub everything down with a paper town to remove as much as you'd like. don't get too much inside the action or bore, but lightly use a quality grease on the bolt and other bearing surfaces.

of course there are drawbacks to this kind of aggressive waxing. it works great for storage but it's not a terribly durable coating. if you apply too much it could run when the gun gets hot. it also feels waxy and can look waxy, depending on how much you leave on there.

- emilio

[BayAreaShooter]

Sorry I left out some details. I am storing it in a safe with silica packs as well as a electronic dehumidifier. I have only once had a problem with rust on a different gun and after I cleaned it I have never had a problem since, but the 870 is just a trusty rusty type. I do not have problems with rust on any other guns in the safe.

[akjunkie]

I tried Eezox, it was great for the first 3 months. After taking my 870 out shooting, there was Rust where my oily cheeks touched the rear of the receiver.

I make it a practice of wiping my shogun down with CLP or Rem wipes thoroughly before storage.

[jpscoot_21]

Here are some recommendations..

Product by Birchwood Casey called "Barricade." I've heard of people near the coast use a coat WD-40 with success. Do you take the offending rust off with some gun oil and 0000 steel wool? Whenever I want to take off surface rust this is what I use. It works on blued surfaces on collectible firearms just fine, too. I saw a post recently about a product called Eezox that worked very well. I use CLP mostly.
*just re-read your post, I think the oil and 0000 steel wool would be your best bet. Buy a bag at the hardware store cheap.* After that use either CLP or Eezox or Birchwood Casey Barricade.*

[Caliredsoxfan]

I have had good luck just wiping mine down with some rem oil wipes before I store them. they leave a nice light coat of oil and wipe off any dirt/rust in the process.

[aippi]

If you are doing all that and still getting rust then I say have it parkerzied and the issue is over. You also just gave it the same finish as the 870 Police and with two small parts costing less then $20 can turn it into the same weapon as the 870 police. You will never mutter the word rust again.

[bsg]

If you are doing all that and still getting rust then I say have it parkerzied and the issue is over. You also just gave it the same finish as the 870 Police and with two small parts costing less then $20 can turn it into the same weapon as the 870 police. You will never mutter the word rust again.

+1.

[BayAreaShooter]

Product by Birchwood Casey called "Barricade." I've heard of people near the coast use a coat WD-40 with success. Do you take the offending rust off with some gun oil and 0000 steel wool? Whenever I want to take off surface rust this is what I use. It works on blued surfaces on collectible firearms just fine, too. I saw a post recently about a product called Eezox that worked very well. I use CLP mostly.
*just re-read your post, I think the oil and 0000 steel wool would be your best bet. Buy a bag at the hardware store cheap.* After that use either CLP or Eezox or Birchwood Casey Barricade.*

I think I will be picking up some 0000 steel wool today thanks. Is the Eezox or CLP for preventing the rust from coming back.

[BayAreaShooter]

If you are doing all that and still getting rust then I say have it parkerzied and the issue is over. You also just gave it the same finish as the 870 Police and with two small parts costing less then $20 can turn it into the same weapon as the 870 police. You will never mutter the word rust again.

What is the cost to have it Parkerzied. What is the difference between the 870 and the Police model.

[aippi]

There is only one 870. A simple down load of the 870 parts list from their web site will prove that every 870 has the same parts. The P has a different extractor and one small spring, that's all the parts difference other then the trigger plate assembly is cast aluminum on the P and polyer on the Express and Tactical Models. Polymer is better.

The P is Parkerized. So parkerizing you 870 and changing those two parts brings it up to P spec. Check around locally for shops that Parkerize. Asking at some local gun shops could get some answers. Also posting the Question here for a local guy near you could get some resluts.

[geeknow]

OP,

Based on the feedback I hear, I'm starting to wonder if Rem didnt cook up a 'bad batch' of finish. Seems to be a rash of this happening....including my new 870 . I keep mine in the safe with everything else. Once, every 2 weeks, I feel compelled to run a lightly coated (oil) rag over it. This, after opening the safe one day and gasping in horror at the sight of my BRAND NEW 870 all covered in rust......and not a speck of rust on 'everything else' in there.

I am about to send it out to be blasted and coated (probably Duracoat). This should cure it once and for all.

I wonder what Rem's position on this is...?

[geeknow]

What is the cost to have it Parkerzied. What is the difference between the 870 and the Police model.

Seems to be ~80 bucks to blast and park.