reloading shotshells

[ragenmoan]

I was advised that when reloading shotshells, the wad gas seal should be seated down far enough to touch the powder. This would created most efficient burn. Kinda like a high compression pistons in a gas engine. If using too short of a wad that's seated all the way down to the powder, there will be some empty volumn in the shot cup and the shot will just rattle around. Is this a problem and/or will it cause a shot patterning problem? I'm wondering if it's best to pack the shot tight or pack the powder tight?

[swifty]

Shotgun reloading is very similar to reloading rifle and pistol, there is a recipe that must be followed. The hull will require a particular wad be used with a particular powder/weight and the appropriate amount of shot.

Reloading books or data should be available for your hulls and needs.

[RaymondMillbrae]

Shotgun reloading is very similar to reloading rifle and pistol, there is a recipe that must be followed. The hull will require a particular wad be used with a particular powder/weight and the appropriate amount of shot.

Reloading books or data should be available for your hulls and needs.

Agreed.

Get a good reference book on shotshell reloading, and follow the load data to a" T".

Once you get a better understanding of the shotshell reloading process, you can vary the ingredients...slightly.

I reload for target loads, and for sabot slugs as well. (Click on the progressive slug tutorial below my signature).

One of the nice things about shotshell reloading is customizing your loads. (It makes a huge difference in shotgun shooting). And if you are making low-recoil target or slug loads...you will really save money!

As for the juggling around of the shot (not buck-shot), it is OK if you have the proper hull and wad. It is not uncommon for the shot to rattle around in the hull a bit.

In Christ: Raymond

PS: It is not a matter of "packing the wad down tight against the powder". If you reload shotshell, you will learn that there is a general "psi" that you use to push the wad down into the powder.

[ragenmoan]

Thanx Raymond. I'm in total agreement of following load recipes "to a T", especially the powder charge to bullet weight to seating depth criteria. Been handloading high power rifle and handgun ammo for 5 years. I'm fruggle when comes to hand loading and not really into the macho mucho bang thing. Just recently got into trap shooting and naturally "roll my own" shotshells. With regards to pushing the wad down into the powder, I look at it similarly to "compressed" high power rifle loads. The idea being the tighter the packing, the hotter the burn, the more efficient the combustion leading to increased velocity. I'm just wondering what effect loose shot in the shot cup has on the shot cloud pattern. I have a bunch of BPI SRC, Helarco VP10 and VP15 wads (for 1 and 1 1/8 ounce loads). I want to see how they'll do with about 18 grains of Clays and 7/8 ounce #8 shot in a straight wall hull. The low powder and shot volumn is going create quite a bit of empty space in the hull.

[swifty]

You should not have empty space in the loaded cartridge. If you are going to use 7/8oz of shot then use the correct wad. The wad will take care of the empty space.

Where are you getting your data?

[ragenmoan]

Load data is for Clays powder from the Hogden and BPI websites. I'm having problems with (BPI"s) recommended wads for the Win AA hulls. Neither Hogden or BPI's data distinguishes the old style one piece/unibody/compression formed and the new 2 piece/polyformed/HS or whatever else they want to call these hulls! Contrary to what BPI says, the BPI SRC, Helarco VP10 and VP15 wads will not fit in either of these AA hulls. Even the new style 2 piece ones that really look like a straight wall hull with a taller tapered base wad. The old style hulls seem to have less volumn (greater taper). I've since bought the Claybuster WAA12 replacement wad (CB1118-12) for my 1 oz loads and the WAA12L for 7/8 oz loads per Hogden's website and they fit well. Still gotta do the water volumn comparison between the old and new style AA hulls since this will affect the ballistics.

[swifty]

OK, I think I understand you better now. I have not loaded the AA-HS hulls, I still have a bunch of the AA left. BPI's data shows you have a good recipe with 18.0Clays and 7/8shot when used with the VP10's. If the hulls aren't accepting the VP10 you might contact BPI for advice.


Back to your Original Post. The powder and wad combo should bring the top edge of the wad below the bottom of your crimp. If the wad is too long and forced into the hull, shot can be damaged upon firing. As you surmised, the wad needs to be seated directly on top of the powder, with no airspace between the two. The crimp must be tight on top of the shot, too little shot and the crimp will continue inside the case and open, shot will then leak out. If you need to fill a wad to remove open space, you might cut a piece of filler material to stuff inside the wad below the shot. Filler material could resemble the cardboard from a shoe box.