1100 feeding issues

[Penzanse]

I have an old 1970's era Remmy 1100. Started to rebuild it. I can't get the shells to clear the magazine tube during cycling. The feed latch seems to hang on the lip of the brass. It looks like the feed latch has some wear patterns and it looks like the natural curve of the latch is wrong like it's been bent but rebent. The portion of the action bar that pushes the latch out of the way is worn but not too worn. I am replacing the action bar and the feed latch. Is there anything else I should look at?

Thank you for your help.

[TERRYGER]

was it working when you bought it? 1970 1100 is not "old"

if you took it apart search for a blowup of reaasembly on the net and MAKE SURE you have put it back together correctly

1100's almost never have problems and don't need "rebuilding". parts like you mentioned do not need replacing unless they have been "fixed" by another "rebuilder"

most are caused by those that think they know what they are doing and find out they really don't

[Penzanse]

OK, I'll stop rebuilding my 1100 then. Thanks for your help.

[TERRYGER]

OK, I'll stop rebuilding my 1100 then. Thanks for your help.

with that attitude you should

answer the questions "mr expert rebuilder"

it's really strange you have no idea what the problem is but you want to be a smartass with anybody that responds to ya.

all my 1100's work great and have since before you were born so i don't have a problem. YOU DO!

if you answer the questions i asked i may(the key word) be able give you further help.

if not, i'll let you use your own superior 1100 rebuilding knowledge

[Penzanse]

Please read my post. I know specifically what is wrong. "I can't get the shells to clear the magazine tube during cycling." because, "The feed latch seems to hang on the lip of the brass. It looks like the feed latch has some wear patterns and it looks like the natural curve of the latch is wrong like it's been bent but rebent."

I'm a retired engineer. How old are you?

I asked if there was anything else I should look at. I was hoping someone had seen this problem before. If you can't constructively contribute, perhaps you should not have answered.

Thank you for your help.

[aaronraby1]

Please read my post. I know specifically what is wrong. "I can't get the shells to clear the magazine tube during cycling." because, "The feed latch seems to hang on the lip of the brass. It looks like the feed latch has some wear patterns and it looks like the natural curve of the latch is wrong like it's been bent but rebent."

I'm a retired engineer. How old are you?

I asked if there was anything else I should look at. I was hoping someone had seen this problem before. If you can't constructively contribute, perhaps you should not have answered.

Thank you for your help.

retired engineer, crane operator, college student of a younger age... just because you are retired doesnt mean anything. no disrespect but it looks like you are a n0ob. as for me, my 1100 has also never had a problem. perhaps you need to take it completely apart and clean it thoroughly. but like terryger said, get a blownup layout to make sure everything goes together right. youtube videos work well if you find the good videos. haha. as for the feeding problem... are you shooting low or high brass shells? i notice that shooting low brass shells dont always have enough kick to cycle rounds.

[TERRYGER]

though you still haven't said, i will have to assume you did not take it apart and reinstall it incorrectly which is fairly commom on this problem. maybe soemone elee did?

i will also have to assume that the gun was not working when you aquired it as you say it "appears to have wear", which would be commom on any gun more than a couple of years old, but brass shell heads will cause very little damage, if any, to steel parts regardless of age, as the metals are just not equal in strength. but as an engineeer i am sure you already know that.

as for the part that "appears bent and rebent" without a picture i cannot agree or disagree. that being said, in my post i said many(maybe not you) have taken these guns apart and been unable to assemble them correctly. i know this because i have correctly reassembled several of them for others after they "worked on them".

soooooo. is the part bent incorrectly?

by looking at a blueprint which i said are all over the net, you should be able to tell with a quick comparison.

although i am not an engieer i have worked on 1100's and lots of other guns for many years and this is how i go about it.

1. did it ever work since i have owned it?
2. if it did work, what has changed?
3. if it didn't work, is it assmbled correctly?
4. if it is assembled correctly, are the parts correct?
5. if it is assembled correctly and the parts are correct, why did it stop working? despite what many may believe 1100's do not just quit!

i know you think you see the problem but unless you know the cause you are only seeing a result.

it could be the latch is bent or worn but both of these (and i have seen a lot of 1100's) are highly unlikely'

i would not even consider wear for the above stated reasons. as for the part being bent, there is only one way that could have happened and that was from someone using a tool and a lot of force.

my first step, as i said in my first post, would be to disassemble and reassemble(15-20minute job) and make sure it is correct. at that time i could decide if the part was really bent or just my imagination.

we would then have a basis without so many variables to formulate a plan of action that would correct the malfunction.

as for seeing this problem before i have seen it and it has always been incorrect assembly. 1100's are not rocket science and don't require .000 tolerances to work.

but again, with out knowing if it was working to start with, if it was working why it needed to be "rebulit" and who else(since you are not sure this part is bent or not) was working on this gun, i have to make assumptions and you know how they are.

as for being constructive i assure you these are constructive comments .

let's get your 1100 operating correctly and work on whether i should/shouldn't post and what my comments should/shouldn't be when you have a lot more time. i assure you the 1100 problem will be far easier to deal with

[Penzanse]

I answered in haste. My description of my 1100 prob was too scant. I took umbrage when I should not have.

Hear is the scoop. I came into an old 1100. It was beat, it was tired, it did not work. It deserved to be restored to it's original splendor. The receiver, barrel, and magtube were blasted and duracoated. New stock and fore. All springs, seals and o-rings were replaced. New firing pin. Any part that looked excessively worn was were replaced. When the unit was put back together, manual cycling revealed the feed latch hang up. I had not replaced the latch because it did not look too worn. The part of the action bar that pushes the latch looked VERY shiny. The arc of the latch didn't look right. It looked like it had been rebent into shape. The reason I say rebent is that the arc of the bend is not smooth compared to a working 1100.

I have owned 1100's before in 12 and 20 ga. I have not seen this particular problem before. I had hoped that someone else had seen this prob.

[ghostrider]

I had feeding issues with an old 20 gauge 1100, my problem was my bolt would not cycle all the way back found out it was a worn out piston ring and O-ring seal that was letting gas escape, hopefully yours could just be a worn latch, midwayusa or brownells has plenty of replacement parts and prides are reasonable

[TERRYGER]

when you pull the bolt back slowly does the shell release and jump into the chamber? could be the spring is not cocked on the side as it should be. this usually takes 3 hands to set and most folks only have 2.

one hand is needed to cock the spring and hold it in place. the other two set the trigger group in place to hold it. once in place it is always cocked.

[Penzanse]

Nope. doesn't clear the tube. I can see the full travel of the bolt as I have the trigger group out. As the action bar slide back, it disengages the bolt, bolt slides back enough to see full travel of the link. I tried a new mag spring and it still doesn't clear the tube.

With the action bar fully in the rearmost (all the way to the receiver), I can see where the latch is supposed to move out of the way. With or without a shell, the amount of movement of the latch is the same. I think the latch has been bent in the past to try and fix this prob. I should get the slide and latch by next week. I've been second guessing myself and thinking "how could I have not realized it was the XXXX also?

I am not missing any parts as all are accounted for. The only parts I know of tht can be installed wrong are the rings/seals but I haven't even got there yet. I'm cycling the action bar manually.