Any Remington 1100 Guru's?

[4DSJW]

Hi All, I have an 1100 that was made in the 60's/70's. It has actually seen very little use, and no abuse, so it is in very nice shape. For reference, I have used the disassembly/assembly technique as shown in the Brownell's YT videos.

For some reason the firing pin is not hitting the primers. I have cleaned it, checked the function, checked the locking block for the correct position, checked that the FP can protrude from the bolt face, the FP spring is intact, the FP is not broken.

All the parts in the Action Bar Assembly appear to be in good shape and working properly.

The trigger group seems to function as it should and the Action Spring is very strong.

I have two barrels, a Skeet bbl and a 28" Field bbl. With the Skeet bbl tightened down all the way with the Magazine Cap, the action and trigger function correctly, but the FP will not hit the primer. With the Field bbl, if the Magazine cap is tightened down all the way, the action functions correctly, but the trigger will not release the the hammer. If I unscrew the Magazine Cap 6 Clicks, the trigger will release the hammer, but the FP will not hit the primer.

I have had the gun completely apart several times, and to my eye there is nothing that is broken or damaged. I have scoured YT for videos and not found anything that directly applies to this situation (besides suggestions to rebuild the bolt assembly)

Any Ideas??? Thx

[shovelon]

Did it work before you took it apart?

[4DSJW]

Did it work before you took it apart?

LOL, a very good question. The answer is a qualified "No". I have not shot this gun for a very long time. At one time it was the gun I was using once a week to shoot 2-3 rounds of Trap, and it worked fine. I may have stopped shooting it because of this problem, I have to admit that I just don't remember.

To be specific, when I took it to the range yesterday to make sure it was working properly, I found that the hammer would fall but the firing pin would not strike the primer. I went home, did the disassembly and a lot of inspection to look for the problem. When I couldn't find any issues, and confirmed that the Bolt assy and the Action Bar assy, seemed to be working correctly, I reassembled with the second barrel. I went back to the range and tried with the second bbl, and found that the firing pin would still not strike the primer.

Obviously something is wrong that I just don't recognize. The two main issues seem to be the FP not hitting the primer, and the fact that the Field bbl needs to have the Magazine Cap backed off by 6 clicks for the trigger to function.

[BOBGBA]

Read through this for some things to check

https://www.trapshooters.com/threads/1100-not-hitting-primer-hard-enough.806219/

[4DSJW]

Read through this for some things to check
https://www.trapshooters.com/threads...enough.806219/

BOBGBA, thank you for that link. I found that exact thread when I started searching for a solution to my problem. That thread is the reason that I took everything apart a number of times to look at specific parts, and to check the function of the firing pin when the bolt was in the closed position. I found no broken or damaged parts, and the firing pin moves freely with no binding when the bolt is in the fully closed position. Clearly I am missing something, but I just can't figure out what it is.

[BOBGBA]

Did you actually pull the firing pin and firing pin spring out and confirm they aren't broken?
If not, the firing pin can still move when broken.
Also, there was a comment about the firing pin spring breaking and coiling itself together.

[Jordon@PacificSporting]

If the bolt is not completely in battery, the hammer will drop but the firing pin won't hit the primer. You might try checking the gas chambers on the barrel lug and make sure the gas pistons are actually going all the way forward so the bolt can completely go into battery, maybe there is a large carbon build up in the gas chambers of the two barrels and the bolt really isn't going completely forward. You might also make sure that the two barrels you have aren't 3" chamber barrels/11-87 barrels on your 1100.

I might also add that I've seen many times people buy aftermarket or hardware O rings that are actually too large and they do prevent the bolt from going completely forward, try taking the gun out without any O rings installed and try shooting the gun. If it works, you probably need to find some correct O rings. The fact that one of the barrels you have works once you back off the magazine cap is a clue that the bolt/action bar/gas assembly isn't moving forward enough to go into battery and that almost certainly means its something in the gas system or gas chambers of the barrels or the O ring is just too big.

[k1dude]

Another problem you might have is the field barrel. If it's from the 60's/70's, it can't handle steel shot.

I have the same problem. I have an 1100 of the same vintage, but Remington went out of business before I could get a replacement barrel. The new Remington isn't producing any barrels and I don't think they plan to.

[TRAP55]

If the bolt is not completely in battery, the hammer will drop but the firing pin won't hit the primer. You might try checking the gas chambers on the barrel lug and make sure the gas pistons are actually going all the way forward so the bolt can completely go into battery, maybe there is a large carbon build up in the gas chambers of the two barrels and the bolt really isn't going completely forward. You might also make sure that the two barrels you have aren't 3" chamber barrels/11-87 barrels on your 1100.

I might also add that I've seen many times people buy aftermarket or hardware O rings that are actually too large and they do prevent the bolt from going completely forward, try taking the gun out without any O rings installed and try shooting the gun. If it works, you probably need to find some correct O rings. The fact that one of the barrels you have works once you back off the magazine cap is a clue that the bolt/action bar/gas assembly isn't moving forward enough to go into battery and that almost certainly means its something in the gas system or gas chambers of the barrels or the O ring is just too big.

First thing I thought of too. Backing off on the mag cap, tells you the locking lug isn't all the way engaged in the barrel extension recess.

[4DSJW]

Did you actually pull the firing pin and firing pin spring out and confirm they aren't broken?
If not, the firing pin can still move when broken.
Also, there was a comment about the firing pin spring breaking and coiling itself together.

Sorry, it's been a busy couple of days here. Yes I pulled and checked both. Neither had any sign of damage and both looked in great shape. The Breech Bolt Buffer has clearly seen some use, but it is not cracked and the firing pin moves freely through it.

[4DSJW]

Another problem you might have is the field barrel. If it's from the 60's/70's, it can't handle steel shot.

I have the same problem. I have an 1100 of the same vintage, but Remington went out of business before I could get a replacement barrel. The new Remington isn't producing any barrels and I don't think they plan to.

The Field bbl is the one that is original to the gun, which I purchased, used, in Idaho in the early 80's. I have never used steel shot in it, and I don't see an occasion that I ever would need to.

[4DSJW]

This is something that will have to look into. Thanks to both of you for your comments. The gun, including the gas ports, is very clean with no carbon fouling. The o-ring might be an issue and I will have to look into that. There are not many parts available for the 1100 nowadays (it didn't used to be that way), but Brownell's does have the correct o-rings.

Both bbl's are marked for 2-3/4" shells, not 3" shells. Neither bbl has a marking as to what shotgun it is made for. Both bbl's do slide easily into the receiver. Besides the 2-3/4" mark, the Remington name, and the patent dates, there are no other marks (besides the small inspection or proof marks). The Field bbl is marked "MOD", the Skeet bbl is marked "SKEET".

The Field bbl came on the shotgun and worked for many years. The Skeet bbl was given to me by my dad and I do not know its history. He had both 1100 and 870 Trap guns, and generally was very knowledgeable what he was buying when he purchased something.

New Questions-
1- do you know how to tell which gun a barrel is made to fit?
2- I know there is a newer version of the Piston/Piston Seal. Do you know if the new snap together version is better/worse than the older version (which I have on this 1100)?

Thank You Again to Both of You for the Suggestions!

If the bolt is not completely in battery, the hammer will drop but the firing pin won't hit the primer. You might try checking the gas chambers on the barrel lug and make sure the gas pistons are actually going all the way forward so the bolt can completely go into battery, maybe there is a large carbon build up in the gas chambers of the two barrels and the bolt really isn't going completely forward. You might also make sure that the two barrels you have aren't 3" chamber barrels/11-87 barrels on your 1100.

I might also add that I've seen many times people buy aftermarket or hardware O rings that are actually too large and they do prevent the bolt from going completely forward, try taking the gun out without any O rings installed and try shooting the gun. If it works, you probably need to find some correct O rings. The fact that one of the barrels you have works once you back off the magazine cap is a clue that the bolt/action bar/gas assembly isn't moving forward enough to go into battery and that almost certainly means its something in the gas system or gas chambers of the barrels or the O ring is just too big.

First thing I thought of too. Backing off on the mag cap, tells you the locking lug isn't all the way engaged in the barrel extension recess.

[BOBGBA]

Please confirm that:
1) the part of the barrel that goes into the receiver looks and measures the same length on both barrels
2) the barrel ring (it slides over the magazine tube) is in the same place (measure from the chamber where the rim of the shell goes in)
3) both barrels fully seat in the receiver

I don't believe that Remington shotgun barrels have any identifying stamped marks that would point it to a particular model.

However you can determine when the barrels were made.

Here is a picture of the markings on the left side (near the receiver) of my 870 barrel.

barrrel marks.jpg

Using the 2nd and 3rd characters (from right to left) you will see LI.
From the website: https://www.gunvaluesboard.com/remin...ture-2164.html

L = February
I = 1988

The 870 was purchased in 1989, so it appears the website dating info works on this example. The barrel was probably made earlier in production than the receiver.

If both of your barrels have single gas ports, this is an indicator that they are for an 1100.

If all else fails, you could try calling this guy and picking his brain (no idea how helpful he is).

https://www.corsonsbarrels.com/

[4DSJW]

Please confirm that:
1) the part of the barrel that goes into the receiver looks and measures the same length on both barrels
2) the barrel ring (it slides over the magazine tube) is in the same place (measure from the chamber where the rim of the shell goes in)
3) both barrels fully seat in the receiver

However you can determine when the barrels were made.
From the website: https://www.gunvaluesboard.com/remin...ture-2164.html

If both of your barrels have single gas ports, this is an indicator that they are for an 1100.

Short Version-
- the o-ring that was installed was .097 thick, not 1/16" thick (.070 actual)
- with the correct 1/16" thick o-ring installed, the action and trigger now work for both bbl's, with the Magazine Cap screwed down tight.

Long Version and Answers-
1) I measured with calipers at 7 different points (lengths, widths), on both bbl's, and the numbers were the same, within +/- .002.

2) (assuming that the "Barrel Ring" is the part that is silver soldered onto the barrel, where the gas ports are drilled). If so, the measurement from the chamber edge to the leading face of the barrel ring is almost identical for both bbl's (using a precision scale). The chamber edge to the back surface of the chamber ring is different by ~.030 (Probably not an issue since this is only a bearing surface for the Magazine Cap/Forend to hold the bbl. in place)

3) Both bbl's fully seat against the sheet metal part with two upturned tabs. Remington Part #48 (Forend Support), that slides on the Action Bar.

- The Field bbl is marked LQ, made in 1978. The Skeet bbl is marked AE, probably made in 1984.

- Both bbl's have dual gas ports. From my reading, it was the 3" guns that only have one gas port, at least for the "newer" guns.

I am going to try to get down to the range in the next few days to do a function test to make sure both bbl's work. I am encouraged that the trigger now works without having to unscrew the Magazine Cap, and I expect that the correct size o-ring will solve the problem.

We are also starting to piece together (form somewhat marginal memories) how this issue probably came about. I will put up a post on how the function test goes, and an epilogue post as to the why's and how's of the oversized o-ring getting onto the gun.

Thank You to Jordon@PacificSporting, TRAP55, and BOBGBA for your comments and help. If the function test does not work, and the 1100 does not go "BANG". I will be bummed.

Thanks Again, Dave

[BOBGBA]

...

- The Field bbl is marked LQ, made in 1978. The Skeet bbl is marked AE, probably made in 1984.

- Both bbl's have dual gas ports. From my reading, it was the 3" guns that only have one gas port, at least for the "newer" guns...

That confirms that both barrels were made prior to the existence of the 11-87.

That makes sense on the gas ports, needing 2 ports to cycle the lighter (non-magnum) loads. It seems I never remember that correctly.