Minor rust - Browning Citori

[high_revs]

I left the Browning Citori OU in the bag for maybe 5 weeks in my office. Zipper closed and has padlock. No air conditioning or anything happening. Maybe still the furnace on for some cold night late April / early May. I opened it last week before heading to the trap range and I noticed some rusting on the barrel near the action (a few spots looking like pitting). I was able to use a blue scotchbrite but there was a little bit on the rib.



I used a tooth brush to remove the surface stuff and oiled it when i cleaned it last week after doing a few rounds at the range and discovering it. Because the rib is checkered, I can't evenly get it out. I think the barrel and rib is painted? is there a rust removal that won't harm the finish? just to get down to where i can't brush or rub out.

[W.R.Buchanan]

OK Here's a Hot Tip! Get a hard case for your gun, the gun lives in the hard case full time. In the case is grease and oil to lube the gun every time you put it together. A Travel Tube of Vaseline will work perfectly for the grease for the Hinge and any kind of gun oil for the rest. Put both in a Plastic Zip Lock Bag in case they leak.

There is also a Silicone Gun Rag and a Bore Snake that is run thru the barrel after each session and wiped down to get all hand prints off the metal before putting it in the Case.

There is also a Large Desiccant Package in the Case to suck up any moisture that gets in.

The case is stored in a Warm Dry Closet or other Dry Place when not in use.

You never store a good gun in a Soft Case. Soft cases are for transporting your gun from your safe to the range or shooting venue. Not storing it.

Do these things and your gun will look new forever! And you will also look like you know what you are doing at the range, Even if you don't!.

Randy

[high_revs]

I have a safe plus golden rod plus dessicant. I only left it on the bag for those weeks. it's a soft bag by Beretta . I do want a proper ou hard case in the future but I like getting it out and go go go. I Just left it there a little too long this time. But yeah. I've seen rust on the semi auto section from folks with pelicans for ex. For their ars

Back to question. What can I use to remove that tiny bit of rust without affecting the paint? It's minor but annoys me

[swiftone]

Try some Rem oil (or other protective gun oil) and a soft brush. If it is going to come off, that will do it.

* and my two Sporting shotguns live in soft cases. A quick wipe down with a microfiber cloth and Rem oil does the job. They get shot weekly and none the worse for wear or rust....I gave away all my hard cases years ago. Seemed silly to have to take apart and reassemble my guns every week.

[flypops]

It takes about 20 seconds to remove the two sections of O/U from a hard case, remove the fore end from the barrel, attach the barrel to the receiver and re-insert the fore end.

Less time than I've spent writing this.

[swiftone]

I am sure it is fast, but I see no reason to do it.

That is probably why I do not shoot trap and hang out with the Sporting Clay's crowd. 😉

[high_revs]

will scrub a little more oil and see where that goes. thanks Swiftone

[JagerDog]

WD-40 and a soft brass brush on the checkered rib.

Should be blue, not paint.

If any rust went beyond the blue, then cold blue to touch up.

[mausercat]

Get some Kroil oil. It works great on rust. Use some Number 3 or 4 steel wool.

You can touch up with some instant blue if the area needs it.

This will not mean the area will not show any damage. It depends on the depth of the rust. Light surface rust may not be noticeable but if it is deep you can't get rid of it other than a full reblue.

I can't stand his politics but as Neil Young said "Rust never sleeps"

[JagerDog]

Get some Kroil oil. It works great on rust. Use some Number 3 or 4 steel wool.

You can touch up with some instant blue if the area needs it.

This will not mean the area will not show any damage. It depends on the depth of the rust. Light surface rust may not be noticeable but if it is deep you can't get rid of it other than a full reblue.

I can't stand his politics but as Neil Young said "Rust never sleeps"

I hope you mean 4/0 (super fine) steel wool. But he said it's in the checkering of the rib.

FTR, some poopoo steel wool as they say it embeds tiny pieces of steel wool, which then rust.

On smooth areas, I've read rubbing it with a copper penny and WD-40.

[Bakerloo]

OK Here's a Hot Tip! Get a hard case for your gun, the gun lives in the hard case full time. In the case is grease and oil to lube the gun every time you put it together. A Travel Tube of Vaseline will work perfectly for the grease for the Hinge and any kind of gun oil for the rest. Put both in a Plastic Zip Lock Bag in case they leak.

There is also a Silicone Gun Rag and a Bore Snake that is run thru the barrel after each session and wiped down to get all hand prints off the metal before putting it in the Case.

There is also a Large Desiccant Package in the Case to suck up any moisture that gets in.

The case is stored in a Warm Dry Closet or other Dry Place when not in use.

You never store a good gun in a Soft Case. Soft cases are for transporting your gun from your safe to the range or shooting venue. Not storing it.

Do these things and your gun will look new forever! And you will also look like you know what you are doing at the range, Even if you don't!.

Randy

I use silicone gun socks for storing everything. Clean the gun after every outing, put it in the sock, then back in the safe. No safe rash on any of my guns.

[Revoman]

Agree on not using steel wool as it does embed and will rust.

[high_revs]

I use silicone gun socks for storing everything. Clean the gun after every outing, put it in the sock, then back in the safe. No safe rash on any of my guns.

i do have those too when it's going back to the safe. a little bit of a pita because i have the Graco where as with my 20ga OU with just a solid stock, it's much easier to slip on.



thanks for the tips. i have kroil also. will try with a stiffer nylon brush before i hit the brass brush.



i guess i'll have to bring that cloth (oiled can't remember the name). and have been putting it back to the safe after; just gotta remember the wipe down. i have a oiled rag i bought (can't remember the name).

[Bullwinkle]

Bullfrog Rusthunter Gun Wipes.

These are primarily to prevent rust, but I've seen them do amazing things when there is already rust present. Since you already have rust, it's going to take a while, so be patient.

1. Wipe down the infected area with a Rusthunter wipe--heck, wipe down the entire shotgun--and let it sit for a week (not in a case, and preferably a dry area).

2. After a week, dip a nylon brush in regular cleaning solvent and scrub the infected area. Wipe down with a rag. If the Rusthunter did its job, it penetrated into the metal's pores to lift out the rust. You'll know this because the rag will show orange.

3. Repeat.

With luck, your rag will stop turning orange after 2-3 applications. A couple notes: As 'mausercat' said, the area might still show signs of damage depending on how badly the rust penetrated. Also, as I alluded to earlier, Rusthunter is meant as a protectant (and a cleaner), not a rust remover. If you neglect the shotgun, the rust can return, so keep it under control by wiping the shotgun after use/cleaning.

I swear by Rusthunter wipes, but YMMV, so the best of luck to you!

[DArBad]

I am a long time believer of Eds Red.