Budget way, shorten wood stock?

[Honey nut]

[meno377]

You could do that, but the pitch is important.

[therealnickb]

Is there a budget way to save $65 on a hogue 12” lop 870 stock?

Is it simply cutting the wood stock to my desired length and installing a slip on limb saver or custom reinstall the limb saver?

Do you have a miter saw? I cut an old stock down once. It slipped a bit on me and caused a very small chip. Had I taken a couple extra steps to secure it, it would have been perfect.

I wanted the same angle butt, just shorter. So I aligned the butt with the blade, and then slid it into place. Pretty easy job.

I bought a grind to fit limbsaver that I’ll get to some day. I think Randall here suggested freezing it before you grind. Sounded like good advice.

[whutsup40]

It can be done!! Are you handy enough with wood working skills to make it look nice and fit right?????

[whutsup40]

65 seems easier and cheaper!!

[Honey nut]

Yah im going to spend my $65 hogue 12” lop.

[meno377]

You could go with this as it's a youth model and half the price. It doesn't say the LOP, but there's a chance it's either close or in fact 12". This is presuming you have an 870.

You would still need a recoil pad.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1164960

[tallengnr1]

If this is for a young person, then I would go the Hogue route, or buy a cheap used stock on ebay and cut that. That way when the person grows, you can put the original back on and/or the shotgun will sell easier with the original stock and original LOP if you choose to sell it.

[SandHill]

Sure, it can be done, even by a person with seriously limited woodworking skills (me).

I borrowed a power miter saw, which obviously helps a lot, as does having a good, fine tooth blade on it. Wrap some painters or other tape around it to help prevent chipping, line it up and go. Gone in 60 seconds.

You don't necessarily have to buy a recoil pad either. I recycled the one on the stock and sanded it down so it didn't overhang. This is a messy job. It helps if you put the recoil pad in eh freezer first, and spray it with some WD 40 while sanding.

I did this on a Winchester Defender stock for HD. I bought a used stock (and forend) off a Winchester 1300 on eBay for $25 in case I screwed it up. Turned out to be a better stock than the original, with checkering on the grip that the Defender stock didn't have. And the match was close enough that I didn't bother changing out the forend. I think it looks pretty good:

Defender Overall View.jpg

Defender Recoil Pad.jpg

It might not look good enough for a skeet range at an elite club back east, but any burglar who gets to see it in person is not going to get that close a look at the stock!

[therealnickb]

Looks good to me.

[whutsup40]

I like it!!

[CamW]

Isn't LOP measured from the face of the trigger to the end of the stock,not length of the stock?

[meno377]

Isn't LOP measured from the face of the trigger to the end of the stock,not length of the stock?

You are correct.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Sure, it can be done, even by a person with seriously limited woodworking skills (me).

I borrowed a power miter saw, which obviously helps a lot, as does having a good, fine tooth blade on it. Wrap some painters or other tape around it to help prevent chipping, line it up and go. Gone in 60 seconds.

You don't necessarily have to buy a recoil pad either. I recycled the one on the stock and sanded it down so it didn't overhang. This is a messy job. It helps if you put the recoil pad in eh freezer first, and spray it with some WD 40 while sanding.

I did this on a Winchester Defender stock for HD. I bought a used stock (and forend) off a Winchester 1300 on eBay for $25 in case I screwed it up. Turned out to be a better stock than the original, with checkering on the grip that the Defender stock didn't have. And the match was close enough that I didn't bother changing out the fore end. I think it looks pretty good:

[ATTACH]984147[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]984150[/ATTACH]

It might not look good enough for a skeet range at an elite club back east, but any burglar who gets to see it in person is not going to get that close a look at the stock!

This^^^

Also Brownell's sells a really neato jig for grinding Recoil Pads that makes the job nearly fool proof. I think it is $62 I got mine 15 years ago and use it about once or twice a year on this or that project. It paid for itself the first time I used it as my mounting came out perfect. The jig is pretty easy to set up and use and get perfect results with as long as you have either a belt sander or disc sander with a good sharp new belt or disc installed. The sharp belt is the key to getting a good cut and finish on the sides of the pad. You don't need to freeze it with a sharp belt.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shotgun-tools/recoil-pad-tools/universal-fitting-fixture-prod25267.aspx

As far as cutting the stock you need masking tape wrapping the stock so it doesn't chip when you cut it. A real Miter Box would be a good tool to have I used my Band Saw which worked well. You need to have a good hold on the stock so it doesn't shift while in the cut.

Here's the Stock on my A5 that I set up as a Combat Shotgun. LOP is 13.5 with the Recoil Pad (Pachmayer) which works very well. The second pic is the one I did on my Marlin .45-70,,, note: how it is flared out which is done by tilting the table on the grinder. It was done to increase the surface area to spread the recoil impulse out over a larger area, thus reducing Recoil overall. And it works!

Randy