High Brass Semi-Auto

[baka]

Forgive my ignorance...

I had a question regarding "breaking in" a semi-auto shotgun with High Brass (I could not resist the SAS12G Semi Auto from centerfire)

I'm assuming it's due to a larger charge/pressure to cycle the extraction?

Thanks

[maidenrules29]

What model is your SG and is it rated for high brass/magnum loads? If you plan on using it for mainly clays and not HD I wouldnt use high brass to break it in as you would be compressing the spring too much and you could risk not being able to cycle light/low brass loads later on. If it is rated for magnum loads and you plan on mainly using it for HD and will be practicing with those loads then no break-in is required as your spring will be factory stiff. I have an Escort MP-A that is magnum rated and I broke it in with Winchester PDX HD rounds. Expensive but it gave me a realistic preview of what I would be dealing with if I had to use it to defend the casa.

[baka]

It's a dirt cheapo Chinese made semi - $139

SAS12 12GA Semi-Auto Detachable Magazine Fed Shotgun

SDS IMPORTS Manufacturer Part Number: SAS12

Specifications

Semi-automatic
Mag fed
12 gauge
24" chrome-lined vent rib barrel with bead sight
2-3/4" chamber
Chrome-plated bolt
Matte blue finish
Plastic furniture
(2) 3rd steel magazines included
Made in China - Original Brolin Arms SAS12

[billt]

This gun is so stated by the manufacturer to be "broken in" with high brass loads. This is to provide enough force to properly cycle the action until it, "wears in". The internals of this gun are crudely finished, because of it's very low cost. By initially running a case of high brass shells through it, it will wear off any burrs, and or any high or tight spots in the first 250 rounds or so. Which should in turn allow the action to cycle more reliably with lower powered target loads.

Benelli also advises owners of the M-4 shotgun to do the same thing. If you don't, it will not cycle low brass target loads reliably. So it's a common practice. I would also keep the gun very well lubricated during this, "breaking in" process. Then completely clean and relube it. After that you should be good to go.

[sargenv]

Wow.. that looks like a knock off of the Browning B-80.. if so, 3 1/4 dram - 1 1/4 ounce loads would likely be useful in your break in period.. for $139 even I'm curious..

[leadstorm]

High brass in modern shells doesn't mean much.

Pay more attention to the payload weight and velocity printed on the box, as opposed to how tall the brass is. What these manufacturers really intend is for you to avoid lighter loads during break-in.

[k1dude]

Yes, #6 with at least 3-1/4 DRAM and 1 OZ of shot is a good way to break it in.

Sometimes you get lucky and it breaks-in quick. Sometimes it takes a long time. I have a FN SLP that took 1,200 rounds of high base (#6, 00, and slugs) before it would cycle cheap bulk Wally World birdshot.

[JagerDog]

High brass in modern shells doesn't mean much.

Pay more attention to the payload weight and velocity printed on the box, as opposed to how tall the brass is. What these manufacturers really intend is for you to avoid lighter loads during break-in.

^^^^this.

High brass is a carryover from paper shells (and even black powder as is "dram equivalent").

Anything with 1-1/4 oz of shot or more should be sufficient.

[Horrendo Revolver]

High brass in modern shells doesn't mean much.

Pay more attention to the payload weight and velocity printed on the box, as opposed to how tall the brass is. What these manufacturers really intend is for you to avoid lighter loads during break-in.

This.