Got My First Shotgun - Have 3 questions

[Fergie]

3 Questions, stock fore-end, side saddle...

So I got my first shotgun, it is a heavy-walled Mossberg 590A1 #51771. It is a beast and I can now see why people say a lightweight short shotgun for home defense is better. But... it is still what I wanted. I have a 20 gauge semi-auto coming for home defense.

Before it arrived, I over-anxiously bought a Magpul stock and Magpul fore-end, as well as a side saddle for extra shells and a better safety.

It arrived with a stock that can hold 4 shells 2 on each side with a spring mechanism. Is having 4 in the stock any good? It feels a bit awkward pulling shells from there, but it is all new to me. Or, should I switch to the Magpul so I can shorten it up a tad - which I would like to do.

The fore-end came with a a tri-rail configuration which I did not expect. I want to attach a flashlight, and I believe one will attach right to it. With the Magpul fore-end I would have to attach the flashlight to the barrel. Is there pros and cons to either set-up.

I see the side saddles everywhere, that is why I ordered one. But the gun is pretty heavy already. I am a big guy and I still feel its weight. Since the gun hold 9 shells (possible 4 in the stock) should I even bother? Will I need a side-saddle for a tactical class?

The safety is too small and I will definitely switch it out.

I knew I should wait before buying, but I was excited an kept finding things on sale while waiting for the gun to restock.

Thanks for answering any part of this!

[CessnaDriver]

Shotgun shell cards. Velcro. Lightweight. When empty rip them off and slap a fresh on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lnBJ_oNIHE

[Fergie]

Thx! I actually bought TacStar plastic version so I could get the plate on the side of the gun. The idea was, I could put velcro on the plate and not the gun. I bought 2 Esstac velcro cards, but those loops are SUPER tight. It is really hard to get the shells into the loops!

[CessnaDriver]

Thx! I actually bought TacStar plastic version so I could get the plate on the side of the gun. The idea was, I could put velcro on the plate and not the gun. I bought 2 Esstac velcro cards, but those loops are SUPER tight. It is really hard to get the shells into the loops!

They can be tight putting in, which is good because they won't come out accidentally, getting them out and into the mag tube is what counts. Once I tried the cards I was sold.

[Fergie]

I am glad to hear that is normal. It is all new to me, so I have lots to practice. Strangely very excited about getting into it!

[ysr_racer]

Have you even shot it yet?

[Fergie]

No sir. I am excited to, but when I get a new gun I always like to practice handling it for a while, then off to the range. Now if I had a range very close or I could shoot in backyard, I would not waste any time and shoot it right away.

I only get to the range a few times per year. But with more guns I will have more incentive to go.

[shovelon]

Have you even shot it yet?

You crack me up!

Good question.

[ceh383]

Heck, I'm just thinking about buying a gun and I've already shot it...LOL...

[Thanatos2203]

It arrived with a stock that can hold 4 shells 2 on each side with a spring mechanism. Is having 4 in the stock any good? It feels a bit awkward pulling shells from there, but it is all new to me. Or, should I switch to the Magpul so I can shorten it up a tad - which I would like to do.

Definitely switch to the Magpul, it is of a better quality than the speed feel and the LOP adjustments and possibility of a cheek riser make it a more versatile solution. The ability to add a flush cup to either side or use the sling loop near the receiver is a huge plus as well.

The fore-end came with a a tri-rail configuration which I did not expect. I want to attach a flashlight, and I believe one will attach right to it. With the Magpul fore-end I would have to attach the flashlight to the barrel. Is there pros and cons to either set-up.

The slots on the side of the Magpul fore end are a mounting solution for their Mlok accessories. If you go on their website you can buy scout style mounts which mount a flashlight directly to the fore end. This will eliminate the bulk of the tri rail mount and also the annoyance of trying to rack the action with the rails on there.

I see the side saddles everywhere, that is why I ordered one. But the gun is pretty heavy already. I am a big guy and I still feel its weight. Since the gun hold 9 shells (possible 4 in the stock) should I even bother? Will I need a side-saddle for a tactical class?

Definitely go with the side saddle, its the closest ammo source you can get to the tube and chamber. With a shotgun you are going to go through ammo quick so it is better to have more, especially if you switch to the Magpul stock. You will need the saddle for a class.

As far as the extra ammo carrying for a class or whatever situation you foresee I would recommend getting some more fixed ammo pouches or shell caddies. Having two cards is nice (one on the gun serving as a side saddle and one as back up) but I don't think constantly ripping and slapping velcro is ever going to get you through a class or crisis. I run a Vang Comp side saddle with an extra card and then have three of the SOE pull out trays on my plate carrier. Individual cards take up a lot of real estate on your load bearing equipment for not a lot of capacity. Having a source that you can top everything off from is recommended after you have used your side saddle/card for a drill or close encounter. SOE also makes their shotgun micro rig which is basically the same idea just all in one package. Be prepared for a bit of a lead time if that options appeals to you.

Only other things I would recommend other than the safety is a quality magazine follower (the factory ones at least on Remington 870's are junk) and a stronger Wolff magazine tube spring. I have the stronger spring in my 870 and the action of the shells jumping into the loading tray is much more positive. I can feel she shells get launched into the receiver as well as hear them so I know if a round actually is getting chambered without waiting to hear a click instead.

Hope this helps.

[Fergie]

Thank you Thanatos2203 very helpful!

[fritztkatt]

I put a spur style safety on mine, still a bit stiff, but much easier to use. Also swapped the speed feed for a youth stock to cut OAL (20" barrel). The tri-rail fore end isn't really necessary, but when it was my only long gun, mounting a light was not awkward.

If you're a lefty, be warned that the speed feed will likely hurt your jaw. It is also quite difficult to use the shell holding part. Better than nothing, but not ideal. I'd go with the shot cards, best idea I've seen. Running single shells out of a pouch is a B****!

Don't forget to pattern it, and adjust the sight for some slugs.

[L-2]

1. Magpul. Generally good stuff. I haven't used them. On my Mossberg 590A1, I've got a Surefire weaponlight fore-end; and a stock with a cut-down recoil pad. I was going to get a Magpul stock but I was too cheap to spend more money after buying and trying various things on the three shotguns I've got. Since you've already got the stock, I'd use it, especially to get the length of pull right for you.

2. You apparently got a Speedfeed stock from Mossberg with the extra shell capability. I find those stocks a bit long for me, yet I've got to use them at work as the 590A1 is my department's designated shotgun of choice (but now we're using a 14" barrel; no longer the 20" barrel; my personal Mossberg is an 18.5" barreled model). If you don't change out the stock, then sure, put 4 extra shells in there. It is a good idea to have 4 more rounds there instead of somewhere else, like the car, at home, or anywhere else when you & your shotgun could use 4 more rounds. This question is "moot" if you're going to replace the Speedfeed stock with the Magpul, anyway.

3. As someone else already mentioned, the Magpul stock has provisions for attaching a Picatinny rail, should you want to use that fore-end instead. You could, as you mentioned, get a flashlight attachment for your barrel and there may still be versions which attach to the mag tube or screw under the mag tube cap. Again, I've got a Surefire fore-end on my Mossberg.

4. Even though we don't use them at work, on my personal shotguns I like the sidesaddle shell carriers. Before a class, shoot your gun as much as possible to determine what items will loosen up and even fall off.

5. Somehow, without even shooting your new shotgun, you've determined the stock safety is inadequate. OK. I do know those Mossberg safeties when new are stiff and hard to manipulate. I've found the stock safety's size just fine, but a new gun will be "tight" at first. The safety and the pump mechanism will loosen up with several hundred cycles. OK, maybe a few thousand cycles. My concern is a larger safety could also be easier to accidentally bump "off" to the "fire" position. This may not be of concern if not slinging the gun on & off and doing things like hopping fences; transitioning to handgun; or any other activities. It's just something to consider.

Usually a detail strip of the receiver is necessary to replace a 590A1 safety. Just be careful especially with not losing the small detent ball bearing in there.

6. I mentioned sling. This is a personal decision and I prefer a simple 2-point type. Especially with that 20" barrel, a long sling is usually necessary and sometimes not found in stores. Looking at the Magpul stock, it appears to have a built in sling mount which will need a sling or mount which has its strap or web to directly attach at the rear. You'll have to determine which front mount to use, whether end-of-mag-cap; swivel-stud-in-bayonet lug; or under-mag-cap-strap-mount. You'll also want to determine if the sling will get in the way of your future mounted light, whether left, right, bottom, or somewhere in-between.

7. SideSaddles can loosen up when shooting. Don't over-tighten that plate onto that aluminum receiver, but do use thread-locker (Loctite) of some sort. One of the mounting screws replaces a screw directly inside the receivers ejection port. It would be a bad thing for that screw to come loose with the bolt getting cycled right over it.

8. For any shotgun tactical class, before attending, try to get advice from the instructor(s) as to what they recommend to configure your shotgun.

For me, I've got a sling, weaponlight, a 4-round side-saddle on the left side of the receiver, and a 5 round side-saddle screwed onto the right side of the buttstock. Usually, a shotgun class will need even more ammo for its drills. Bird, buck, or slugs in cargo pants pockets usually get filled depending on the drill at hand. Your instructors can advise depending on how they run the class. Some folks will even use a "dump pouch" type of bag which might be easier to dig shells from rather than cargo pockets. I don't have them, but I like the other poster's recommendation of hook & loop shotgun cards and extra cards mounted on a vest of sorts. This can go along with train the way you'll fight.

9. Weight of a 590A1 w/20" barrel + accessories. Yes, I agree, that gun gets heavy. If for a class, configure the gun for the mission (the class). If there's no low light section, leave off the light. If the side-saddle adds to much weight and you'd rather load from your pockets, then do so; unless the instructor strongly recommends side-saddles and is going to instruct based on loading from side-saddles. After any good shotgun class, you'll have a better idea what will work for you and your environment/use.

[fritztkatt]

Slings, going off what l2 said... I tried a botac 2pt on saturday. Only shot about 60 rds in about a half hour of having it slung.

The botach worked much better on the shotgun than a m16/m4 (I have tried it on them). I attached it around the stock/pistol grip (just the small point right behind your firing hand) and on the fore end using a BFG picatinny clamp. It had enough adjustment to hold tight/close while standing, but still be fired strong side. Using the quick-pull, I could switch shoulders even with a plate carrier on.

You shouldn't need to detail strip the receiver to swap a safety. I just took the top screw out and didn't lose the ball/detent. Didn't even field strip it.

Check torque on the ejector screw. Mine worked loose at about 1k rounds, and the wife's 20ga 500 came loose from the factory.

If you swap the stock out, check that doesn't work loose either. I'm hesitant to put loctite on aluminum.

[L-2]

fritzkatt, thanks for the first-hand report of swapping a safety switch. I've since found this Youtube video which also shows it being done for our OP:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPVgWduJ2ts