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Remington 512-X, Bolt Disassembly

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  • DirtyRussianAmmo
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2013
    • 1360

    Remington 512-X, Bolt Disassembly

    My bother recently unearthed my very first rifle, thought it was lost forever. It's a 1966 Remington 512-x, and it's a beaut. Has anyone out there fully disassembled a 512 bolt?

    Would love to find a good youtube on it??

    Here's a pdf I found:http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/rem510.htm

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

    Note, I did punch out the rear sleeve pin, but wasn't able to remove it from the bolt? Didn't want to force it...


    Last edited by DirtyRussianAmmo; 11-24-2014, 4:30 PM.
  • #2
    TRAP55
    Calguns Addict
    • Jul 2008
    • 5536

    DRA, dis-assembly is the easy part, getting it back together, will make you say bad words, some you didn't know were in your vocabulary. It's not one you want to learn on.
    The question you need to ask yourself, "does it NEED to come apart?". If it does, let me know. Somewhere here, I have some written instructions.
    BTW...that is one clean 512!
    Edit, by your barrel code, it was made in Sept (if that's a D) 1966 for the N, and the 4 and 9 are assembly codes. 1966 was the last year for the 512 X.
    Last edited by TRAP55; 11-29-2014, 3:30 PM.

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    • #3
      DirtyRussianAmmo
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2013
      • 1360

      Originally posted by TRAP55
      DRA, dis-assembly is the easy part, getting it back together, will make you say bad words, some you didn't know were in your vocabulary. It's not one you want to learn on.
      The question you need to ask yourself, "does it NEED to come apart?". If it does, let me know. Somewhere here, I have some written instructions.
      BTW...that is one clean 512!
      Edit, by your barrel code, it was made in Sept (if that's a D) 1966 for the N, and the 4 and 9 are assembly codes. 1966 was the last year for the 512 X.
      Thanks for the head's up, Trap55. No, the bolt doesn't need to come apart. It cycles and extracts fine. The rifle has been buried in storage and hasn't been cleaned for I don't know how many years. I figured as part of my field strip, I would remove the firing pin, clean and lube it. But after reading your post, I'm not going to fix something that isn't "broke."

      The barrel code is LN 49, tough to see in that pic. I think that makes it a February 1966 rifle.

      If for some reason I end up needing to disassemble the bolt, will PM you for those instructions.

      Comment

      • #4
        wolevides
        Junior Member
        • Nov 2014
        • 2

        The barrel code is LN 49, tough to see in that pic. I think that makes it a February 1966 rifle.

        Comment

        • #5
          TRAP55
          Calguns Addict
          • Jul 2008
          • 5536

          I did my first one, because like you, I thought I should. After that, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" is applied. It's not impossible, just a PITA, like a Ruger auto pistol. After you've done it a few times, it's easier, but it's still a PITA!
          I have a couple of the 500 series. When the bolts need cleaning, Hoppes and a toothbrush, hose it out with brake cleaner, blow it out with compressed air, and a coat of CLP. Just be careful to keep solvents off the red paint on the cocking indicator. That one would be GTG with a shot of lube.
          Looking at your pics again, that is the cleanest 512 I've ever seen!
          How long has it been stored?, and how was it stored?

          Comment

          • #6
            DirtyRussianAmmo
            Senior Member
            • Jun 2013
            • 1360

            Yep, that's basically what I did, Hoppes and a toothbrush and a can of compressed air, then followed with my CLP.

            The gun spent most of its life stored in a room in my folks garage, thirty plus years. It was kept in an old leather gun case, nothing special. In fact, when I pulled the rifle out, a good amount of the case's lining came out with it too. The rifle had a few patches of light rust on the bolt and barrel surface, but most of it cleaned right off. The bore was dirty and fouled with powder. But a few passes with hopes, followed by CLP, and the thing looks shiny and new. I removed the stock, the metal below the wood looked perfect, no rust.

            Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, but will soon. I'm guessing it will run like a top.
            Last edited by DirtyRussianAmmo; 11-30-2014, 8:27 AM.

            Comment

            • #7
              DirtyRussianAmmo
              Senior Member
              • Jun 2013
              • 1360

              Update: Got out and put a few rounds through the 512. Very impressed. The rifle functioned flawlessly. I'd forgotten what great shooters they are!

              Shooting off-hand at 50yds with a Tasco 4x15 scope, I was able to get 2 inch groups pretty consistently. From a bench I think this thing could be a little tack driver.
              Last edited by DirtyRussianAmmo; 11-30-2014, 5:25 PM.

              Comment

              • #8
                TRAP55
                Calguns Addict
                • Jul 2008
                • 5536

                2 inch? You weren't trying hard enough!
                Invest in some Match ammo, or standard velocity, and try it off a bench.
                It's a shame Remington can't build a .22 like that anymore. My old 341P will group just as well as my 513T's will.

                Comment

                • #9
                  DirtyRussianAmmo
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2013
                  • 1360

                  Yep, the rifle was doing its part. The nut behind the trigger, not so much.

                  I was using Remington "golden bullet" 36grain, brass-plated hollow points. Going to have to pick up some match ammo for the range.

                  At some point would like to upgrade the scope. Any suggestions?

                  Anyone try one of these?

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