10/22 Issue..."Click"

[coq]

[Gem1950]

Is the barrel (extractor notch at breach face) lined up properly with the extractor? Perhaps a new extractor is in order.

Could be that one or two things are out of spec with the bolt. You might check if it is assembled correctly with all parts in their proper place. That and/or sending it out to get reworked for better function.

https://sites.google.com/site/quesplace/

[ojisan]

No expert here, just some guy on the internet who has spent a lot of time with the 10/22.

With such a mix of parts it's hard to say what is / which one is wrong and causing the problem.

However, it sounds like the bolt is not going all the way into battery every time.
The click is the hammer hitting the back of the bolt instead of the firing pin.
The 10/22 is designed so that the hammer cannot reach the firing pin unless the bolt is all the way forward.
The case left in the chamber tells us that the extractor did not hook onto the case rim, another sign of the bolt not being all the way in battery.

"Home build?"
If this is an 80% receiver then anything could be out of spec so I won't "speculate" what might be wrong with it.

Something learned when hot-rodding motorcycle engines is change only one thing at a time and make sure it functions properly before going onto the next change.
Too many changes at the same time often results in problems that are hard to track down.
If the new part just won't work right, replace it with an original to eliminate that part from any other variables.

But, the temptation to speculate is here, so, assuming you have an original Ruger bolt and a good, properly dimensioned receiver, I would check:
1. Does the bolt go all the way forward every time when just the bolt and receiver (no barrel or other parts) are tested?
2. With the recoil spring and guide added, does the bolt go all the way forward?
3. Check with an original Ruger barrel and no other changes, does it work right?
4. Is the extractor notch in the TS barrel the correct depth and angle?
5. Is the barrel seated to the correct depth?
6. Is the barrel clamp block straight and tight?
7. Is the extractor groove in the barrel properly aligned with the bolt / extractor?

Lastly, do you have a scope mount on it?
Are the scope mount screws sticking out inside the receiver and rubbing on the bolt?

One more thought: does a round drop easily and fully into the TS barrel chamber without any hang ups or force required?

[Remus]

Does the cartridge have a light primer strike or no primer strike? Is the chamber clean? I've read accounts where match chambered 10/22 aftermarket barrels resulted in out of battery discharges. One of the reasons for the bentz chamber as I recall.

[coq]

I appreciate the questions and input.

Yes this started as an 80, but hoping I can find some other cause. So far, I've only done one mod at a time before testing for function. Problem persists, however…it will run several rounds well, then go click…I can then press handle forward and sometimes get the extractor to click in (so I can fire the round and will eject as normal). Sometimes not, however, and this creates a situation where there's a live round deep into the chamber which has to be manually extracted…not safe, because if the bolt were to then be let go while open, the round will fire from the impact.

Some of the suggested things I cannot readily check, but barrel is on straight, extractor groove seems good and in proper alignment, no scope mount, chamber is clean when I start each time. Next time out I'll check the tightness of the chamber and if there's a primer strike of any kind or not.

Thanks again.

[jinjyr]

polish outside face on extractor to get better results of it going into battery...use new, better return spring for receiver..my 2 cents..good luck

[krwada]

Failure to battery

I can then press handle forward and sometimes get the extractor to click in (so I can fire the round and will eject as normal).

The BOLD faced type ... is a clear indication that your problem is failure to battery.

What kind of 80% receiver are you using? If you are using a RAZOR, then this is your problem. The RAZOR bolt rail, (milled into the receiver), is off by around 0.016". This means you need to move the barrel tenon hole centerline a full 0.016" towards the ejector port on the receiver. Then, if you use a standard Ruger bolt ... this should work.

The fact that you are having difficulty extracting live rounds from your TACSOL barrel is to be expected with bentz chambered barrels. Once they go in ... they STAY in until fired!

This is very contrary to a service rifle. My son, (who was in the Corps), did not know this. He kept jamming and slamming the 1022 ... trying to operate it like his service rifle. I kept telling him to NOT do this ... These match grade things are really finicky and are not good for manhandling ... Manhandling this precision stuff is like assuring that an accident will happen ... or at the very least ... things like slam fires ... which will happen.

[Remus]

Green Mountain barrels are marked, "Caution unfired rounds may not eject". I personally haven't had such a problem. It could be alignment as identified above or it could be ammo with looser tolerances. Have you tried Wolf Target or Eley.

[CalTman]

clean the barrel/chamber and
if the the problem goes away for the first 100 rds or so then it's the tight "match chamber" of the barrel

[fourtraxmc]

I had a similar problem with a build. It ended up being the ejector was causing the bolt to not completely into battery. Adjusted the ejector slightly and problem was solved.

[AceGirlsHusband]

Mine did that once. I was so excited I forgot to put any rounds in the magazine, though.

[coq]

[coq]

I had a similar problem with a build. It ended up being the ejector was causing the bolt to not completely into battery. Adjusted the ejector slightly and problem was solved.

I'm curious about this…are you referring to the extractor? What did you do to adjust?

...This means you need to move the barrel tenon hole centerline a full 0.016" towards the ejector port on the receiver. Then, if you use a standard Ruger bolt ... this should work.

I believe mine is the Razor…can you elaborate?