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Not wanting to spend $100 for a trigger "kit" on a $200 dollar rifle I decided to watch some you-tube videos and complete a trigger job on my 10-22.
Just a note about dremils, they take metal off too fast, round edges and generally do not work that well. I like doing triggers by hand.
After watching several videos I decided on a plan of attack. I went toHarbor Chinese Freight and bought several packs of sandpaper. I purchased the 200, 500, 1200 and 2000 grit.
Once home I cut a 4x4 square out of each sandpaper. I then laid it on a flat square oak board I have which has nice clean edges. I took the 10-22 trigger pack out of the gun and laid all the parts on a paper towel. I wiped all the parts down so the oil, grease and dirt were removed.
I proceded to use 200 paper to grind down the hammer/sear engagement surface of the hammer. Working towards the edge instead of away. I gently rubbed the hammer on the paper while keeping it flat. Once I had sanded the sear "catch" surface on the hammer down about 40% I used some 500, 1200, 2000 to polish it back up. I then used more 200g to barely round the the back of one of the other parts, its the smaller of the two parts that sits in the trigger itself (disconnecter?). Once I had a slight round to the back (allows it to rock smoothly) I used the 500,1200,2000 to polish it out. Next I took the sear catch area down about 20% and polished when finished. The last thing I did was to use 1200, 2000 to polish all contact areas.
While reassembling I used Geislee grease on all contact parts. Its a very slick synthetic clay imparted grease made by Mobil for the airplane industry. Upon testing the trigger it had NO creep and was about 3.75-4lbs. I would like it to be a bit less maybe 3-3.25lbs. I will take the trigger out next weekend and put a set screw in the trigger to stop over-travel.
All in all I reduced the crappy factory trigger by half, eliminated creep and I am happy with my $12 dollar (sandpaper) trigger job.
Just a note about dremils, they take metal off too fast, round edges and generally do not work that well. I like doing triggers by hand.
After watching several videos I decided on a plan of attack. I went to
Once home I cut a 4x4 square out of each sandpaper. I then laid it on a flat square oak board I have which has nice clean edges. I took the 10-22 trigger pack out of the gun and laid all the parts on a paper towel. I wiped all the parts down so the oil, grease and dirt were removed.
I proceded to use 200 paper to grind down the hammer/sear engagement surface of the hammer. Working towards the edge instead of away. I gently rubbed the hammer on the paper while keeping it flat. Once I had sanded the sear "catch" surface on the hammer down about 40% I used some 500, 1200, 2000 to polish it back up. I then used more 200g to barely round the the back of one of the other parts, its the smaller of the two parts that sits in the trigger itself (disconnecter?). Once I had a slight round to the back (allows it to rock smoothly) I used the 500,1200,2000 to polish it out. Next I took the sear catch area down about 20% and polished when finished. The last thing I did was to use 1200, 2000 to polish all contact areas.
While reassembling I used Geislee grease on all contact parts. Its a very slick synthetic clay imparted grease made by Mobil for the airplane industry. Upon testing the trigger it had NO creep and was about 3.75-4lbs. I would like it to be a bit less maybe 3-3.25lbs. I will take the trigger out next weekend and put a set screw in the trigger to stop over-travel.
All in all I reduced the crappy factory trigger by half, eliminated creep and I am happy with my $12 dollar (sandpaper) trigger job.
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