10/22 Bolt/Charging Handle

[Bigbemo]

Should the charging handle on my 10/22 fully open easily? When I purchased it it only goes back about half way easily and is a little harder the rest of the way. About every 10th round casing does not fully extract and causes a jam. Is it a manufacturer defect? I'm fairly new to shooting and I was wondering if any one has any advice or has experienced the same problem. I have been shooting bulk Federal 36gr. out of it.

[Merc1138]

Are you referring to the tension from the hammer? Does the CH feel the same if you try to operate it when it hasn't been fired yet, compared to when it has been fired?

Have you lubed the rifle yet?

[Bigbemo]

I have not disassembled the rife to to lube it. I have cleaned the barrell and applied light oil to what I could reach where the magazine is inserted.

[Merc1138]

I have not disassembled the rife to to lube it. I have cleaned the barrell and applied light oil to what I could reach where the magazine is inserted.

So take it apart, and lube it. Should be plenty of reasonable videos on youtube about it.

[Bigbemo]

I will, but is this a common problem?

[Merc1138]

I will, but is this a common problem?

A firearm that hasn't been lubricated, failing to operate as expected, yeah.

I'd also suggest trying a different magazine, and possibly different ammo as well. But you need to start with the basics first. Also, you didn't answer my question that might clarify what's going on with your charging handle.

[ojisan]

It's not a problem.
Some lube on the hammer face where it rubs on the lower rear corner of the bolt smooths this out.
You need to remove the trigger group from the receiver to do this.
10/22s are really easy to take apart and put back together...give it a try!

When you have it apart, check the surface of the metal rod that functions as a guide for the recoil spring and charging handle.
If this surface is not smooth, you can polish it using crocus cloth or replace the rod with an aftermarket one.
Lube where the charging handle slides on this rod is also important.

[Bigbemo]

The ch feels the same as as it did before it was fired as it does after.

[Merc1138]

The ch feels the same as as it did before it was fired as it does after.

Sounds like you need to follow ojisan's advice then.

A lot of guns simply do not come "ready to go" from the factory, as grease and oils they use aren't necessarily for lubrication, but to keep it from rusting as it sits on a shelf in the open air for who knows how long(could be years). Some guns are certainly more likely to work out of the box with the factory gunk in place(not every factory uses crappy packing oil, or the springs are heavy enough that it doesn't matter).

[Bigbemo]

I will take it apart, inspect and lube. I will report back soon. Thank you.

[ojisan]

OK...the first time you pull the ch back, the hammer gets cocked.
If you pull the ch back again, without having pulled the trigger, the hammer remains cocked from the first time you pulled it back.
In this case, you will not feel the hammer cocking resistance until near the end of the rearward movement of the ch as the bolt is not rubbing on the cocked hammer when it is further forward.

[DPmax]

Mine was always rough, I changed it out with a KIDD one not long ago... now it's smoooooooth!!

[tanakasan]

+1 for KIDD!

The guide rod/springs kit is only $13. A world of difference. It is 70 Rockwell C hard and very smooth. Get the KIDD extractor while you are at it!

Disassemble, clean and lube as mentioned above.

Robert

[DPmax]

+1 for KIDD!

The guide rod/springs kit is only $13. A world of difference. It is 70 Rockwell C hard and very smooth. Get the KIDD extractor while you are at it!

Disassemble, clean and lube as mentioned above.

Robert

And a KIDD bolt buffer!

['ol shooter]

Before you start dumping parts into it, which I am not opposed to by any means, a thorough cleaning is in order, including the use of Scotch Brite on the inside roof of the receiver to remove any paint, to smooth that part that the bolt rides against the most. I am a big dry lube user, because it doesn't create that nasty mud that oil and rimfire residue make when mixed together. Take your magazine apart, make sure it's clean, and re-clock the rotor spring to 8 flats, and lock down, making sure the rotor moves freely. Check that both barrel vee block bolts are snug, some have one or both loose right out of the box. Now shoot it, and see if you are happier with it. There are no limits to how much money you can dump in a 10-22, my wallet can attest to that. I have 11 currently, and they range from lightly modified trainers to full on customs, they are addictive. Good shooting.