No Ruger LCP 2 22 lr topics here?

[smittty]

First range trip fired 180 rds, first three magazines were CCI mini-mags and then switched to federal value pack, and all worked perfectly.

It's an interesting little gun that I didn't need but now that I tried it, I'm happy to have it. Glad it's on the roster.

[Spyder]

Mine has been great and goes in my pocket when going out to the back 40 to check on chickens and fences and such. Light, carries great, shoots well, hasn't malfunctioned yet. I'm a big fan.

[stormvet]

[Imageview]

[smittty]

I wanted to get one before the new tax, then figure out how much I'll like it. I like it!

[DanGunner]

I picked up a Ruger LCR II .22 as soon as they became legal in California. It soon developed a habit of failing to fire after a few rounds and sent it back for repair. Came back with same problem and sent it off again. Since getting it back for second time it's been operating flawlessly through at least 500 rounds. I like it again.

[ojisan]

I got mine out of jail last week.
Just one trip to the range so far.
I'm a big Ruger fan but I have to say that this gun is not so good so far.

The gun comes with one mag and I ordered two more mags separately on the net.
All three mag base plates were incorrectly installed, the base plates slid back and forth at least a 1/2".
On all three mags, the base plate retainer plate was not hooked over the rear of the mag like the owner's manual shows.
Got that fixed easy, although I did launch one follower across the room and it landed behind the computer table in the mass of cords and plugs, necessitating a behind the computer table clean out of lint, dust, dead bugs and assorted other small gun parts which had been lost sometime in the past.
Finding missing parts is always great, now if I could just remember what the parts went to.

As per usual, I took the slide off the new gun before shooting it for an initial look at the insides and to make sure the bore was clear of grease or excess lube before heading to the range.
Odd, the gun was bone dry with no lube anywhere.
I lightly greased and oiled the parts and put it back together.

The first two hundred plus rounds had numerous light strikes, two above-the-chamber-mouth feed jams, there were numerous random slide lock backs while there were still rounds in the magazines, a few that failed to fully go into battery, one fail to extract and a few fails to eject.
Ammo was mostly Federal Champion 36 Gr hollow point copper plated at rated rifle speed of 1260 FPS.
Also fired was a bag of miscellaneous leftover Winchester 40 Gr Roundnose Lead and a few Remington Thunderbolts.
Best function was with CCI Mini Mags 40 Gr plated roundnose but there were still a couple of light strikes, several slide lock backs and a fail to go into battery.
The Mini Mags were definitely stronger than the other rounds recoil wise.

Back home, first I perused the various internet threads on these problems.

Light strikes: Hmmm, as with other guns, sometimes a fail to fully go into battery by just a tiny amount can be caused by the round hanging up in the chamber just short of fully seated.
When the hammer is dropped, the slide gets pushed that last little bit into battery but the hammer / firing pin energy is used up when fully closing the slide / seating the round so the round does not fire.
Inspection of the chamber showed a slightly rough surface with tiny circular machining ridges visible.
Hand feeding rounds into the barrel chamber with the barrel off the gun had felt roughness and drag.
Mother's Metal Polish on a bore brush and then on a cloth covered jag was used to smooth the chamber ridges and now all rounds of many brands easily fully seat in the chamber and pass the drop-in plunk test.
Hopefully this has also cured the light strikes, failures to extract and failure to eject.
I also gave the feed ramp a light polish but it was pretty smooth already.

Slide lock backs: Internet says the tab on the slide stop that is pushed up by the follower when the mag is empty is too long.
Slide off and full mags in the frame, it is easy to see that the noses of the bullets can bump the tab and push it up early.
I slightly shortened and angled the tab and now when hand cycling the slide lock back does not happen but it does still lock back when the mag is empty.

Above the chamber feeds: Rounds look to me to sit very nose high in the mags.
The front feed lips might need to be bent down a little to lower the round feed angle but I am going to hold off on changing them for now since there were only two instances of this.

I'm going to head over the range again later this week for another test session to see how the current fixes work.

I also ordered the Galloway Spring Kit, it should be here by the weekend, not sure if it will be needed but I do want this gun to work right.

In favor of the LCP was it showed good plinking accuracy all the way out to the 100 yard steel plates at ASR when it worked right and I wasn't focused on the function problems.

I will update later in the week after the next test session.

[smittty]

I got mine out of jail last week.
Just one trip to the range so far.

I also ordered the Galloway Spring Kit, it should be here by the weekend, not sure if it will be needed but I do want this gun to work right.

I installed the Galloway Spring kit before my first range trip and it's been perfect so I would definitely install the spring kit before going to the range again, otherwise you could just be wasting ammo and getting frustrated.

I bought some federal punch for this gun and looking forward to my next range trip!

[nosuchagency]

I got mine out of jail last week.
Just one trip to the range so far.
I'm a big Ruger fan but I have to say that this gun is not so good so far.

The gun comes with one mag and I ordered two more mags separately on the net.
All three mag base plates were incorrectly installed, the base plates slid back and forth at least a 1/2".
On all three mags, the base plate retainer plate was not hooked over the rear of the mag like the owner's manual shows.
Got that fixed easy, although I did launch one follower across the room and it landed behind the computer table in the mass of cords and plugs, necessitating a behind the computer table clean out of lint, dust, dead bugs and assorted other small gun parts which had been lost sometime in the past.
Finding missing parts is always great, now if I could just remember what the parts went to.

As per usual, I took the slide off the new gun before shooting it for an initial look at the insides and to make sure the bore was clear of grease or excess lube before heading to the range.
Odd, the gun was bone dry with no lube anywhere.
I lightly greased and oiled the parts and put it back together.

The first two hundred plus rounds had numerous light strikes, two above-the-chamber-mouth feed jams, there were numerous random slide lock backs while there were still rounds in the magazines, a few that failed to fully go into battery, one fail to extract and a few fails to eject.
Ammo was mostly Federal Champion 36 Gr hollow point copper plated at rated rifle speed of 1260 FPS.
Also fired was a bag of miscellaneous leftover Winchester 40 Gr Roundnose Lead and a few Remington Thunderbolts.
Best function was with CCI Mini Mags 40 Gr plated roundnose but there were still a couple of light strikes, several slide lock backs and a fail to go into battery.
The Mini Mags were definitely stronger than the other rounds recoil wise.

Back home, first I perused the various internet threads on these problems.

Light strikes: Hmmm, as with other guns, sometimes a fail to fully go into battery by just a tiny amount can be caused by the round hanging up in the chamber just short of fully seated.
When the hammer is dropped, the slide gets pushed that last little bit into battery but the hammer / firing pin energy is used up when fully closing the slide / seating the round so the round does not fire.
Inspection of the chamber showed a slightly rough surface with tiny circular machining ridges visible.
Hand feeding rounds into the barrel chamber with the barrel off the gun had felt roughness and drag.
Mother's Metal Polish on a bore brush and then on a cloth covered jag was used to smooth the chamber ridges and now all rounds of many brands easily fully seat in the chamber and pass the drop-in plunk test.
Hopefully this has also cured the light strikes, failures to extract and failure to eject.
I also gave the feed ramp a light polish but it was pretty smooth already.

Slide lock backs: Internet says the tab on the slide stop that is pushed up by the follower when the mag is empty is too long.
Slide off and full mags in the frame, it is easy to see that the noses of the bullets can bump the tab and push it up early.
I slightly shortened and angled the tab and now when hand cycling the slide lock back does not happen but it does still lock back when the mag is empty.

Above the chamber feeds: Rounds look to me to sit very nose high in the mags.
The front feed lips might need to be bent down a little to lower the round feed angle but I am going to hold off on changing them for now since there were only two instances of this.

I'm going to head over the range again later this week for another test session to see how the current fixes work.

I also ordered the Galloway Spring Kit, it should be here by the weekend, not sure if it will be needed but I do want this gun to work right.

In favor of the LCP was it showed good plinking accuracy all the way out to the 100 yard steel plates at ASR when it worked right and I wasn't focused on the function problems.

I will update later in the week after the next test session.

i'd be interested in results before kit install. i experienced similar issues with mine. i also polished chamber and ramp with dremel and it seemed to help a bit. right now it runs about 100% with fed auto match and maybe 80-90% with aguila interceptor solids. i'd looked at that kit as well, but havent pulled trigger as i haven't taken pistol our much lately.

[ojisan]

I decided to try a trip to the range today, before the Galloway kit arrives, to see how my modifications worked out.
I prefer to make changes one at a time.
(Yes this time I did make two changes at the same time, chamber and slide stop, but these problems were separate.)
I continued to use the problematic Federal Champion ammo because I wanted to see the results of the mods with no other variables.

1st mag - Perfect function in every way. (Hmmm.)
2nd mag - More perfect function in every way! (Getting excited because now the cycling feels so much smoother.)
3rd 4th 5th 6th 7th 8th 9th 10th 11th 12th mags - Perfect! (Giggity!)

Round 127 of the 13th mag did not fire.
The firing pin strike was deep and strong.
I spun the round 180 degrees, put it back in the mag, rechambered it and it fired.

Round 185 of the 19th mag, the slide locked back early.
A quick tug back on the slide and the round chambered and firing continued as normal.

Total 200 rounds of the Champion with only the above two issues, one of which was the ammo for sure.

The rough chamber was definitely a problem, maybe this is why people who return their guns to Ruger for repair often say that the barrel was replaced.

The slide still locks back every time at the last round with the shorter tab.
I can take a little more off the tab but I think for now it's good to go.

I had about 40 or so odds-and-ends trashy .22 ammo of various brands, ages and bullet shapes including some that was corroded as an acid test for reliability.
Two rounds did not fire after many tries.
One case side blew out and stung me good on the right side of the face, but the gun functioned normally and the bullet cleared the barrel.
(Always wear eye protection!)
A quick field strip showed no damage to gun or bore.
All other rounds functioned and fired as per normal.
I really like to be able to use whatever ammo I might find post-apocalypse; this gun now seems like it can work with almost anything.

After the trash rounds, two mags of CCI Mini Mags were also fired.
The cycling and function is so silky smooth and consistent that there was no point in shooting a bunch of them as part of a reliability test.

Well, I've gone from bummed out after the first session to very happy after the second session.
I'm good to go. : ))

The Galloway spring kit will just be frosting on the cake now.

[ojisan]

Galloway Update: I installed the Galloway spring kit earlier this week, it didn't make it here until after the weekend.

The extractor spring is a little stronger than the original.
The firing pin spring is a little softer than the original.
The hammer spring is a little stronger than the original.

Installation of the hammer spring is a bit tricky on the reassembly since many small parts have to be held in exactly the right position when the chassis is inserted back into the grip frame.
It took several tries until I figured out where to hold the chassis to keep the small parts in place.
Pinch chassis and parts between thumb and fingers lengthwise on both sides at the front, put the rear of the chassis in first, lower the front in next. The rear won't drop in all the way until you push in on part of the hammer parts that remain in the frame when the chassis is removed, use a small flat blade screwdriver to push forward from rear to the front, parallel to and just below the lower edge of the chassis, push until you hear a click, remove screwdriver then the rear of the chassis will drop in).

Since I already had the gun running well, there was not any real difference for me with the Galloway spring kit other than a slightly harder trigger pull.
Later I might try one of their triggers, perhaps the pull is better with their trigger.

Test firing today finished off the last 125 rounds of the Champions with zero problems.

I opened a brick of older American Eagle 40 Grain round nose lead, these rounds fired when hand cycled but did not have the power to get the slide all the way back for ejection and semi-auto function.
After pulling the slide and barrel out and double checking everything to make sure nothing had gone wrong with the gun, two more mags of Mini-Mags were fired.
These again functioned perfect and very smooth.
The gun really likes the Mini Mags, it seemed to be more accurate with them too.

So, the LCP is good to go now.
With the proper ammo, the gun is reliable, easy to shoot and surprisingly accurate, especially with the sights being nothing more than a couple blurs to my aging eyes.
There is some recoil to be felt since it is a small gun but it does not beat up your hand.
(Just thinkin', maybe a rubber grip sleeve might be nice.)

I would recommend the gun, although the need for some hand fitting and tuning was needed on mine.
Such is life in our mass production world.
I've had to do more to some higher priced new guns to get them to run than what I did with the LCP.

For the non-fix-it-myself types, if you don't get a good one, just send it back to Ruger.
It's worth the effort because once it runs, it runs really good.

[smittty]

Galloway Update: I installed the Galloway spring kit earlier this week, it didn't make it here until after the weekend.

So, the LCP is good to go now.
With the proper ammo, the gun is reliable, easy to shoot and surprisingly accurate, especially with the sights being nothing more than a couple blurs to my aging eyes.

Glad you got the spring kit in and it's working well!

I painted my front sight with this permanent white marker. Just dab the tip on the front sight to paint it, do 2 or 3 coats. Trying to mask it made a mess and this paint sticks really well so it was hard to clean off. Dabbing method worked well.

Amazon.com: Artsunlvy White Paint Pens marking pens Permanent Markers - 2 Pack Oil Based Waterproof Markers for Tire, Rubber,Wood, Rocks, Metal, Canvas,Plastic, Dark Surface,Craft Art Supplies,Medium Point : Arts, Crafts & Sewing

[MajorSideburns]

Galloway Update: I installed the Galloway spring kit earlier this week, it didn't make it here until after the weekend.

The extractor spring is a little stronger than the original.
The firing pin spring is a little softer than the original.
The hammer spring is a little stronger than the original.

Installation of the hammer spring is a bit tricky on the reassembly since many small parts have to be held in exactly the right position when the chassis is inserted back into the grip frame.
It took several tries until I figured out where to hold the chassis to keep the small parts in place.
Pinch chassis and parts between thumb and fingers lengthwise on both sides at the front, put the rear of the chassis in first, lower the front in next. The rear won't drop in all the way until you push in on part of the hammer parts that remain in the frame when the chassis is removed, use a small flat blade screwdriver to push forward from rear to the front, parallel to and just below the lower edge of the chassis, push until you hear a click, remove screwdriver then the rear of the chassis will drop in).

Since I already had the gun running well, there was not any real difference for me with the Galloway spring kit other than a slightly harder trigger pull.
Later I might try one of their triggers, perhaps the pull is better with their trigger.

Test firing today finished off the last 125 rounds of the Champions with zero problems.

I opened a brick of older American Eagle 40 Grain round nose lead, these rounds fired when hand cycled but did not have the power to get the slide all the way back for ejection and semi-auto function.
After pulling the slide and barrel out and double checking everything to make sure nothing had gone wrong with the gun, two more mags of Mini-Mags were fired.
These again functioned perfect and very smooth.
The gun really likes the Mini Mags, it seemed to be more accurate with them too.

So, the LCP is good to go now.
With the proper ammo, the gun is reliable, easy to shoot and surprisingly accurate, especially with the sights being nothing more than a couple blurs to my aging eyes.
There is some recoil to be felt since it is a small gun but it does not beat up your hand.
(Just thinkin', maybe a rubber grip sleeve might be nice.)

I would recommend the gun, although the need for some hand fitting and tuning was needed on mine.
Such is life in our mass production world.
I've had to do more to some higher priced new guns to get them to run than what I did with the LCP.

For the non-fix-it-myself types, if you don't get a good one, just send it back to Ruger.
It's worth the effort because once it runs, it runs really good.

The heavier hammer spring is probably what reintroduced issues cycling the weaker ammo since the slide has to fight the hammer spring to re-cock the hammer during recoil. If you weren't having problems with light strikes I would just switch back to the stock one as your post above showed you had the gun running mostly fine before receiving the new springs if you want to cycle the cheap weaker ammo. Otherwise just stick with the CCI Mini Mags for reliable function. You could also try finding a weaker than stock recoil spring if they make one and toying around with that. Thanks for the review of the pistol, I'd like to pick one up. I've read from other reviews that they might take a bit to break in but most reviews I have seen are favorable.

[96740]

I just got one for a pocket option like Spyder said. A lot of places are out of stock on the LCP's .380 and 22LR, I finally found one on Guns.com

[DB>]

I used white nail polish, front sight and the upper portion(s) of the rear sights. It's a bit of a different sight picture, but I'm finding it works well.

Glad you got the spring kit in and it's working well!

I painted my front sight with this permanent white marker. Just dab the tip on the front sight to paint it, do 2 or 3 coats. Trying to mask it made a mess and this paint sticks really well so it was hard to clean off. Dabbing method worked well.

Amazon.com: Artsunlvy White Paint Pens marking pens Permanent Markers - 2 Pack Oil Based Waterproof Markers for Tire, Rubber,Wood, Rocks, Metal, Canvas,Plastic, Dark Surface,Craft Art Supplies,Medium Point : Arts, Crafts & Sewing