10/22 Barrel Question

[Ruger Rick]

Hey guys, I had a problem yesterday with my 10/22 barrel, while I was at ASR givin the rifle a little workout. As I was finishing up my session, I noticed that the flash hider that comes fitted on the factory 10/22FS Tactical barrel had unscrewed itself and fallen off. Thankfully I noticed it before I packed my belongings away for the drive home.

I was thinking about putting some threadlok on it and then cinching it back down with some channel locks. Is that advisable? If anyone has any pointers for me, that would eliminate that problem from ever happening again, Id really appreciate them!!!

THANKS!

[BSlacker]

cinching it back down with some channel locks

I threw up a little when I read that. Please channel locks are for plumming.

Go to Sears and get a wrench that fits use thread locker tighten it down.

[Ruger Rick]

Channel lock type pliers arent only for plumbing, just so you know. I happen to use them daily on the job, and Im a Sparky. Mine are Klein, though! Anyhow.

In case you were wondering, I wasnt going to place the pliers on any metal. I was going to wrap the hider in some sort of cloth, so I dont mutilate the metal and the finsish on the flash hider, then give it a couple good twists.

I hope the threadlok resolves this issue im having with that part.

Let me ask you this. How does the threadlok stand up to the temps of a barrel that just been through 1100 rounds? Pretty much nonstop, too.

Ive never used threadlok on a firearm before, so please excuse my constant inquiries!!!

[CSACANNONEER]

"Channel locks"??? The company known as "Channellock" has been making a wide variety of tools for well over 100 years. Are you guys refering to WATER PUMP PLIERS?

If you are going to use these, I suggest getting a couple of wooden jaw protectors for them. Some people mistakenly refer to these wooden jaw protectors as "pieces of popsicle sticks".

[BSlacker]

Sorry about my comment about Water Pump pliers. I work on high end optics and lasers (150K/300K) and if I took out pliers to work on the unit the customer would puke right there. I hit one with a 4lb dead blow hammer once in front of the tech and he went pale thought I was going to get to see lunch right there in the OR.
The red locktite part separation temp is 482 F. Most common, blue, locktite separation temp is around 2-300 F. So it might hold. I would try a crush washer first. If the hider has flats use a wrench. It can't be tightened enough using pliers and cloth. The heat, vibration, heat expansion and contraction and torque forces at the end of the barrel are great.
When I install a compensator I install the barrel in a barrel vise with oak blocks cut to the barrel od then mount it in a 20ton press just to make it tight then use a big wrench to compress the crush washer with the comp/flash hider. Never had one loosen and they come off the same way if needed use a new washer when reinstalling.

[Ruger Rick]

"Channel locks"??? The company known as "Channellock" has been making a wide variety of tools for well over 100 years. Are you guys refering to WATER PUMP PLIERS?

If you are going to use these, I suggest getting a couple of wooden jaw protectors for them. Some people mistakenly refer to these wooden jaw protectors as "pieces of popsicle sticks".

Actually, yes, I was referring to pump pliers. But like I said, Im a Sparky, and in the 9 years in the trade, Ive never been on a jobsite where I heard someone (from any trade) call them pump pliers. "Hey pass me the pump pliers." Or "Hey, let me borrow your pump pliers." Its not done. Everyone calls them Channel locks, or channys, regardless of brand...

And as far as the wooden jaw protectors, thanks for the tip! It seems my daughter has a good supply of those in the freezer.

[Tom Slick]

"Channel locks"??? The company known as "Channellock" has been making a wide variety of tools for well over 100 years. Are you guys refering to WATER PUMP PLIERS?

If you are going to use these, I suggest getting a couple of wooden jaw protectors for them. Some people mistakenly refer to these wooden jaw protectors as "pieces of popsicle sticks".

If we're going to be pedantic then unless his pliers have a long slip joint they are not "water pump pliers". Specifically "Channellock" pliers in that style are "tongue and groove pliers" which are the same shape and function but because of the joint type they are not technically "water pump pliers".

With that said, you and I both know that the term "channel locks" refers to "water pump pliers" as much as "Pepsi" or "Coke" means soda and "Caterpillar" means crawler or dozer.

[CSACANNONEER]

If we're going to be pedantic then unless his pliers have a long slip joint they are not "water pump pliers". Specifically "Channellock" pliers in that style are "tongue and groove pliers" which are the same shape and function but because of the joint type they are not technically "water pump pliers".

With that said, you and I both know that the term "channel locks" refers to "water pump pliers" as much as "Pepsi" or "Coke" means soda and "Caterpillar" means crawler or dozer.

I stand corrected on my plier definitions but I will hold my ground about the definition of "wooden jaw protectors"

Now, where did I put my saw set? Yea, I really have one and a saw vise too. Tom, since you seem to know tools, may I ask you about these "axes" I have. I have forgotten the proper term for them and just need someone to remind me. They are smooth on one side (depends on which way the handle is installed) and used to square timbers off by hand. Do you know what I'm talking about?

[Tom Slick]

Adze, broad axe, or Froe?

I can blame my tool knowledge on FFA in high school. We had to memorize 100 different tools and were tested on them in competition. There's about 20 different hammers!

[CSACANNONEER]

They are hewing axes. I'm not sure if the ones I have are considered "broad axes" or not but, as soon as I googled "broad axe" I got my answer. Thanks.

[BayouBullets]

Dear Ruger Rick,
If memory serves me correctly, the flash hider on the 10/22 tactical takes a Torx-60 right in the muzzle opening. Don't destroy it trying any kind of wrench where it's gripping perpendicular to the bore axis.

[shtr45acp]

See # 11. Get the proper tool for the job and loose the channel lock mindset in regards to use on firearms. You will damage gun steel with them, no matter how much you wrap them in cloth. Gunsmith toolsets are fairly inexpensive and avail thru Midway, Brownell's, etc. Torx sets can be had at Harbor Freight, too. A little "Gun Tite" will solve the loosening up probs, dont use Lock-Tite (same mfgr though). Good luck, Sparkey.

[Ruger Rick]

Thank you guys, very much for the tips!

But, I had already went ahead and tightened it back on by hand, and I used Loctite Red 271. I wish I had read your posts beforehand! Also, the flah hider on this rifle is screw on, with no visible set screws.

I hope what I did doesnt affect the barrel's integrity in any way...