FTF/FTE with my Ruger 10/22 upgrades

[jimbob2262]

Hi fellow CalGunners -

Need a little help from you---

I installed the following parts I got from a fellow CalGunner onto to my Ruger 10/22 and I took it out to the range today and encountered a FTE (or?) FTF problem.

a. Volquartsen T/C 2000 Trigger Assembly in black
b. Volquartsen Bolt Handle in silver.
c. Green Mountain 20" .920 stainless bull barrel.
d. Hogue black overmolded .920 stock.


I shot the first 5 rounds with no issues, then I could not fire again. I believe that the issues was that the fired round would not eject. But I'm not completely sure that was the issue. I racked the bolt and an unfired round would eject. Sometimes it would fire on every other round if I racked the bolt between rounds. Sometimes I had a double feed issue. I had to remove the magazine first before I could eject the unfired round in the chamber.

I tried using two different kinds of ammo. First type of ammo was Blazer 40 grain round nose at 1235 fps. Second I tried Federal Target Grade Performance 40 grain round nose at 1200 fps.

The action seems pretty smooth, otherwise. I did not notice any issues with the alignment of the barrel when I attached it to my receiver. I might have overlooked something, though. Any advice?

Jim

[7.62 Charlie]

Sounds like a FTE problem.
From what I've read in your post it sounds like the guns stovepiping a spent case while feeding a live round into the chamber.
.920 barrels have a tight chamber that sometimes causes a FTE.
It's not really a big deal. You probably need a better extractor.

Here you go

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=363360

[CmpsdNoMore]

I also put a Hogue stock and Green mountain (.920) barrel on my 10/22 as well as some volquartsen trigger parts. Instead of the whole trigger assembly I just swapped out the internals on my stock trigger.

I had the same problem as you, multiple FTE from each magazine. I ended up getting a Volquartsen exact edge extractor and now I can fire as fast as I can pull the 2 1/2 pound trigger! The only problem I have now is that 10 rounds is gone too fast!

[tonelar]

Did you make all these changes at once?

[donw]

go to www.rimfirecentral.com

there are extensive threads and articles on the ruger 10/22

[jimbob2262]

Than you everyone.

I did indeed make all of the changes all at once.

I do notice that the bolt is tight and hard to pull back - not smooth.

I'l check out rimfire.com per donw's recommedndation.

I'll also look into a better extractor.

[CmpsdNoMore]

When I had the Ruger extractor in the rifle I noticed if I cleaned inside the "hook" of the extractor that it would run fine for a few magazines. If you have easy access to a range, that may help in finding out of it is indeed the extractor or something else.

[jimbob2262]

Hello everyone,

I have an update.

I took the rifle out to the range again after cleaning the existing extractor and cleaning the barrel. It seems that the problem is NOT FTE, rather FTF. After firing, the spent casing is successfully ejected, but after the next round is chambered, I cannot get a trigger pull - it's as if the firing cycle is not completed with the bolt in the firing position. I have to remove the mag, rack the bolt to eject the unfired round and then reinsert the mag and charge the rifle again. I had to do this between each round fired.

Here's the kicker:

If I do NOT remove the mag, and I rack the bolt (which ejects the UNFIRED round and chambers another round), I get a VERY CURIOUS RESULT THAT I AM HESITANT TO DESCRIBE PUBLICLY). If any of you have any expertise in Ruger/Volquartsen issues or want to know more about the DANGEROUS/CURIOUS behavior of my set-up, please PM me!!!

Thanks, Jim

[TacticalPlinker]

Is the firing pin striking the casing at all?..... You also mentioned it is "as if the firing cycle is not complete", which to me sounds like possible the bolt is not engaging the hammer causing it not to reset which would allow you to pull the trigger again, but that's just my guess...

By the way, have you tried cleaning the entire bolt assembly and trigger group? Possibly even taking down the trigger group and putting it back together? I'm not sure of your experience but I've had problems with my 10/22 where something was not put back together properly (my fault) or simply dirty.

Also, I'm not sure of use or age, but springs could need to be replaced. Maybe the hammer spring for example or firing pin spring, etc... Just some ideas...

As for your "kicker", please PM, I'm interested in your problem, I think I have an idea, but it may help to diagnose with this information.

[-hanko]

Here's the kicker:

If I do NOT remove the mag, and I rack the bolt (which ejects the UNFIRED round and chambers another round), I get a VERY CURIOUS RESULT THAT I AM HESITANT TO DESCRIBE PUBLICLY). If any of you have any expertise in Ruger/Volquartsen issues or want to know more about the DANGEROUS/CURIOUS behavior of my set-up, please PM me!!!

Thanks, Jim

I'd start by checking firing pin protrusion, as well as freedom of movement back and forth. I'd also look at headspace v. rim thickness of your ammo. If you bought a match-chambered barrel, you'll need match grade ammo. Rimfirecentral should get you squared away.

-hanko

[ojisan]

Take the gun apart promptly, remove trigger group.


The sear is not properly catching or releasing the hammer.
Very unsafe.
I mess with almost everything, but this I would not mess with at all.
Send the trigger group back ASAP for a new one.
Insist on a replacement assembly.

[Atticabob]

I had the same "interesting" situation when I installed a Timney trigger system. The bolt was hard to rack and such... Check the ejector for clearance to the bolt. My brand new system had a rubbing ejector and was causing all kinds of goofy things...