CZ-452 elevation adjustment.

[rojocorsa]

I know that to adjust the elevation on my CZ, that I need to loosen the screw and push up the front sight to make it taller. It looks like I need one tiny allen wrench to do this.


I have two questions:

What size allen wrench do I need?

How much do I need to raise the front sight to make it "dead center?" I notice there are some hash marks on the sight ramp, but I have no idea of what their calibration is. I am tired of having to do a six o clock hold to be able to be on target at 50 yards WITH my rear sight all the way down to 25m. (This is how I've managed so far, but now that I feel comfortable, I would like to actually have the sights zeroed.)


And 50yards is a good distance for the zero for a .22, correct?

Thanks

[donw]

50 yards is the 'normal zero' for .22 rimfire

raising the front sight will normally LOWER the bullet impact; it lowers the muzzle.

is your rear sight a sliding ramp style also?

sighting in is a matter of trial and error for the biggest part.

i doubt the hash marks are in specific increments/measurements they're mostly to give you reference points in the adjustment procedure. the measurement of how the bullet impact changes when you change it will have to be determined by you: you move the sight one hash mark and the impact was 1" higher/lower at XX yards, the marks represent 1"@ XX yards...you have to work it out.

get a gallon of ice tea, some sandwiches and bunch of ammo and make a fun afternoon out of sighting in.

if you can, take it to a gunsmith or knowledgeable friend with a bore sighting tool, and have him bore sight it for you and adjust from there.

[stockranger]

don't think about it too much. set the rear sight at 25 yards and sight in at 25 yards. It'll take a few groups. After that you will be on target to 100 yards atleast by just sliding the rear sight.

I shoot winchester subsonic HP and i'm good to atleast 125 yards after sighting in like this. The rear sight is designed for high velocity 40 gr like mini mags. So at some point with subsonics they will be dropping so much faster then the high velocity the sight will be off. If you shoot high velocity it should be dead on all the way out to the maximum setting on the rear sight.

[Izzy43]

don't think about it too much. set the rear sight at 25 yards and sight in at 25 yards. It'll take a few groups. After that you will be on target to 100 yards atleast by just sliding the rear sight.

I shoot winchester subsonic HP and i'm good to atleast 125 yards after sighting in like this. The rear sight is designed for high velocity 40 gr like mini mags. So at some point with subsonics they will be dropping so much faster then the high velocity the sight will be off. If you shoot high velocity it should be dead on all the way out to the maximum setting on the rear sight.

What ^ said. To add a little, adjust the front sight and shoot at least 3 rounds before adjusting again to the center of those 3 rounds, repeat until HAPPY!

[rojocorsa]

So you guys are saying that if I zero to 25 yds, then I can slide the rear sight to any distance and it will be dead-on?



And yes, I do want to lower the POI; it just shoots too damn high.


Would I be wrong in making the FS as tall as possible in the beginning?

[Izzy43]

So you guys are saying that if I zero to 25 yds, then I can slide the rear sight to any distance and it will be dead-on?



And yes, I do want to lower the POI; it just shoots too damn high.


Would I be wrong in making the FS as tall as possible in the beginning?

Best I can tell you is that my CZ UltraLux front sight post was right in the middle of the channel and the rifle was dead on at 50 yds. Of course ammo can make a difference in POI. I think if you start in the middle or as high as possible really doesn't matter. Just pick a range (25 or 50yds). Set the rear sight to that reading and start adjusting the height of the front sight. Remember that the higher you set the front sight the lower the POI. Go in baby steps with that front sight.

As far as zeroing at 25yds and being dead on at 100yds, that's not correct. It will more likely be on again between 70-75 yards. A typical .22lr HV round will drop 6" from a 50yd zero when shot at a 100yd target.

Also the CZ iron sights are calibrated in meters so calibrating in yds for a zero point is OK but it will be off slightly at all ranges on the sight beyond what ever your zero yardage is. Not a lot but just so you are aware and don't go fiddiling with it to get it on at all settings on the rear sight.

Here is some info from Chuck Hawes website on 22lr ballistics and recommended zero point.

================
The .22 Long Rifle is by far the most popular small game caliber in the world. The High Velocity Hollow Point version of this old cartridge seems to be just about ideal for the purpose. CCI Mini-Mag, Federal Classic, Remington Golden Bullet, and Winchester Super-X .22 LR-HP ammunition are all examples of the type. These use 36-38 grain copper plated LHP bullets at a muzzle velocity (MV) of about 1280 fps and muzzle energy (ME) of 131 ft. lbs. (Remington figures). They are powerful enough to kill quickly, but not so powerful that a chest shot blows the animal apart. The trajectory of the .22 LR cartridge is such that its maximum point blank range (MPBR) +/- 1 inch is about 85 yards. Zero a scoped rifle using one of these high velocity HP loads at 25 yards and the bullet passes through the line of sight for the second time at about 75 yards. The mid-range rise of a .22 so sighted is about 1 inch.

===============

The iron sights on a CZ sit much lower than a scope so the ranges listed above will change somewhat from that stated in the article. Still good info. In short what he is saying is that a .22lr zeroed at 25yds will rise 1" at some point in its flight to 75yds where it will once again be right on target. Thats with a scope height that is 1.5" above the center of the bore.

[rojocorsa]

Thank Izzy. That helps some.


I guess I should just strive for a 50yd zero, which is the distance I shoot anyway.


At least learning about all of this is really helpful for when I get serious about center fire precision rigs.


In the past, I had been looking for a ballistic graph of 40gr .22 LR HV, but I couldn't find any. Some charts, yes, but no line graphs with a trajectory curve.



Oh, and how would I remove my FS hood to get to the sight a little easier?

[stockranger]

yes, as long as you slide the rear sight you will be close enough for hunting and plinking out to 100 yards after sighting in at 25 with whatever ammo you shoot.

If using ihigh velocity ammo it will probably be dead on at all ranges sliding the rear sight. If you shoot subsonic you would be about 2" low at 100 yards and how much you are off will continue to increase from there.

The sights compensate for about 6" of drop at 100 yards for the HV ammo. SS ammo drops 8" at 100 yards. So that makes it 2" low. that is still close enough to hold dead on the center of a soda can or rabbit and hit it. Since the sight blade covers most the target at that range I don't see 2" making much difference.

I recomend SS ammo. It is far more accurate past 50 yards then any HV. As the bullet goes from super sonic to sub sonic it creates a wave of turbulance in the air that destabalizes the bullet and ruins the accuracy. Try the winchester subsonic HP. Devastating on game, almost silent out of the lux, very accurate. Only cost about 30 bucks for 500 rounds at bass pro.

[rojocorsa]

The stuff I usually shoot these days is CCI Blazer, it's HV.


But I have a brick of RWS R-50 at my disposal. The reason I don't really shoot it yet is because I don't feel that I am yet proficient enough to get good use out of it. I would also try Wolf MT when I run out of R-50.

******
Gentlemen, I'm afraid it seems like there is conflicting info in this thread and I am now confused.

As far as zeroing at 25yds and being dead on at 100yds, that's not correct. It will more likely be on again between 70-75 yards. A typical .22lr HV round will drop 6" from a 50yd zero when shot at a 100yd target.

yes, as long as you slide the rear sight you will be close enough for hunting and plinking out to 100 yards after sighting in at 25 with whatever ammo you shoot.

Unless I missed something. ???

[stockranger]

RWS and ELEY are too expensive for iron sight shooting unless you are in competition.

Those probably shoot better then winchester but my lux will shoot .25" groups at 50 yards with the winchester stuff and a good rest. The ratio of price and accuracy is excellent. Of course my lux is glass bedded with a trigger job and striker spring.

If you haven't tried a JNP ghost ring you should. It is only 15 bucks and makes the irons much easier to use. I like the largest size myself because the smaller ones make really bad eye strain for me. It looks like this.



If you site in at either 25 or 50 that blazer ammo should be just about dead on from 10 to 250 yards.

[rojocorsa]

The RWS was actually gifted to me. I got lucky in that regard!

[Izzy43]

The stuff I usually shoot these days is CCI Blazer, it's HV.


But I have a brick of RWS R-50 at my disposal. The reason I don't really shoot it yet is because I don't feel that I am yet proficient enough to get good use out of it. I would also try Wolf MT when I run out of R-50.

******
Gentlemen, I'm afraid it seems like there is conflicting info in this thread and I am now confused.





Unless I missed something. ???

What in my post(s) is confusing? Please state what it is and I will attempt to clarify what I meant.

[Beetle Bailey]

You might be overthinking this. When I got mine, I set the rear sight to 25 and zeroed the rifle at 25 yards with Wolf Match. Then I put my target out at 50 yards and set the rear sight to 50. Shooting the same Wolf Match ammo, it was dead on so I didn't need to fine-tune any further.

You have to trust your shooting skills and always use a clean paper target. A spotting scope and Shoot-N-C's helped a lot when I did it. It's been several years and almost 30,000 rounds now and I haven't touched the front sight since the first day I shot the rifle.

[rojocorsa]

What in my post(s) is confusing? Please state what it is and I will attempt to clarify what I meant.

Stockranger is saying that I can zero at 25, and that I'll be dead on at other distances so as long as I raise the rear sight. (At least that's what I understood).

And Izzy, you said this

As far as zeroing at 25yds and being dead on at 100yds, that's not correct. It will more likely be on again between 70-75 yards. A typical .22lr HV round will drop 6" from a 50yd zero when shot at a 100yd target.

Sorry.

[rojocorsa]

You might be overthinking this. When I got mine, I set the rear sight to 25 and zeroed the rifle at 25 yards with Wolf Match. Then I put my target out at 50 yards and set the rear sight to 50. Shooting the same Wolf Match ammo, it was dead on so I didn't need to fine-tune any further.

You have to trust your shooting skills and always use a clean paper target. A spotting scope and Shoot-N-C's helped a lot when I did it. It's been several years and almost 30,000 rounds now and I haven't touched the front sight since the first day I shot the rifle.

When I fist got the rifle, I shot it poorly. Of course, I didn't even have a feel of how the sights worked. Given that my sight is low on the ramp making it short, it shoots high at 50. The first time I shot the gun I wasn't even on target because I had the rear sight at 50m in addition to that low front sight.

Man, I really feel like I've come a long way....



BTW, what size allen wrench do I need to loosen the capture screw for the FS? I never found out.