Ruger Mark IV or Something Else?

[Ora Serrata]

I don't have personal experience with the Buckmarks, but I have been a Ruger MK fan for over 40 years.

[newbie1234]

I had all three pistols as you indicated, the only difference is my Ruger is Mark II GTM not Mark IV. Here my list:
Best: Ruger mark II.
Better: Buckmark Lite.
Good: Buckmark Contour.

[Soilguy]

Ruger MKIV, Duh! Reliable, easy to clean and accurate. Put volquartsen trigger kit in it and some Williams fire sights and you’ll be happy AF.

[prob]

Ruger MkIV hands down. You won't be disappointed.

[rimfireblowback]

Kel Tec is not on the roster of California legal firearms. Neither is that 17 round capacity. So far, we are only allowed 10 rounds when buying NEW.

Second choice:

https://ruger.com/products/markIVCompetition/models.html

[9Cal_OC]

The Ruger 22/45 is also on the roster now, another attractive option.

This.

[FNGGlock]

The Ruger 22/45 is also on the roster now, another attractive option.

[M76]

Get the Ruger Mark IV, the SR22 is also available

[DArBad]

Don't get me wrong, I love Ruger pistols, I own four of them. Cleaning is not an issue as I am used to the procedure to put them back together. That being said the pistol I shoot most is my Kel Tec P17. It eats anything and it just runs and runs without any issues. 17 round capacity and easy to clean makes it my go-to fun gun now.

Kel Tec is not on the roster of California legal firearms. Neither is that 17 round capacity. So far, we are only allowed 10 rounds when buying NEW.

[rimfireblowback]

Don't get me wrong, I love Ruger pistols, I own four of them. Cleaning is not an issue as I am used to the procedure to put them back together. That being said the pistol I shoot most is my Kel Tec P17. It eats anything and it just runs and runs without any issues. 17 round capacity and easy to clean makes it my go-to fun gun now.

[Imageview]

I am not mechanically inclined. It?s still doable, just annoying. I do have one of the little pin thingies to install in my mk ii the next time I do a full clean to avoid the need for the roll/spin. It?s still better than risking stripping a thread for me personally, again because I am not mechanically inclined.

[AR22]

Love the Detroit to Japan analogy.. It is spot on.. There are many reasons I and the Family have only owned Toyotas for many a years now.

Yes there is a trick to the older Mks..But you should not have to trick a Pistol into going back together,LOL I have never owned a IV but I hear they did, after many years, fix this problem.. I guess better late than never..

[Usmc0844spare]

The BuckMark is fine to clean by just pulling the slide back, then brush and wipe surfaces with CLP. Finally run a bore snake through the barrel and you are done. Not had issues or malfunctions doing this for thousands of rounds.
Maybe take off the top strap one every year pr two to clean the action properly.
Have never used a rod on the barrel.

I had tried half-heartedly to remove the barrel on my buckmark but it didn't seem worth the potential hassle and tears of a stripped torx screw head just for funsies.

I'll save that for if I ever change out the barrel.

I think that if it ever got SO nasty in the bore that I felt compelled to use a rod, I'd probably carefully insert the rod through the muzzle sans attachment, screw on a brush after it poked out the chamber end. Then pull back through.

That being said, as you say, judicious use of brake cleaner, wipeout, clp and boresnakes seems to do the job just fine.

[Zenderfall]

The BuckMark is fine to clean by just pulling the slide back, then brush and wipe surfaces with CLP. Finally run a bore snake through the barrel and you are done. Not had issues or malfunctions doing this for thousands of rounds.
Maybe take off the top strap one every year pr two to clean the action properly.
Have never used a rod on the barrel.

Yes, doing this would probably work well.

Thing about the full breakdown are those toothed washers. I feel like every time I tighten them down, they're grinding away at the metal of the screw and/or barrel/frame top. Not to mention there's a very specific torque value it has to be-too lose and the screw loosens itself when firing, too tight and you may start grinding away or worse yet, strip out the holes. What's worse is I couldn't find the torque value anywhere in the Buckmark manual. I've gotten around 25 in. lbs but I'm afraid to go any more. And yet, the rear screw seems to loosen pretty easily.

It's not about being mechanically un-inclined, its more that such a chore can be completely avoided simply by buying another competing gun that costs nearly the same without the above worries. Pretty nice that MK IV's are now on roster.

It's definitely easier than getting a buckmark bolt back on the frame with it's spring/guide block all in the right place.

And don't forget that stupid clip on the rod that can fall off, or worse yet, fly off!

[ar15barrels]

I disagree. The procedure to disassemble and re-assemble the gun seems like it was something design in Detroit, as opposed to Japan.

You have not figured out the MK trick then.
There is a trick to putting them back together where you roll the gun over as if you were twirling it on your trigger finger, pull the trigger, rotate the gun half way again as you close the mainspring housing into the grip frame.
This makes the hammer strut catch the mainspring cup in the mainspring housing.
Once you learn the roll, you can do it blindfolded.
It's definitely easier than getting a buckmark bolt back on the frame with it's spring/guide block all in the right place.