TandemKross Buckmark trigger pros/cons?

[Usmc0844spare]

Not wild about how the OEM curved trigger feels/fits my finger. It's just TOO curved.

Contemplating a TK trigger. Any negative experiences out there? I know it doesn't mechanically work any differently than the OEM trigger, and as far as I know it should not affect anything with the actual break. But any other changes you noticed with the pull, major hiccups with installation, etc?

['ol shooter]

I have the same issue as you, going to the TK was a great choice, so much so that I also put one in my Ruger Mk III 22-45. The trigger for the Buck Mark required slight fitting on mine, since it would not reset due to the trigger bar not traveling back far enough for the sear to engage the notch in the bar with the new trigger installed. I had the choice to either remove a little material from the upper tab on the trigger where it contacts the frame or widen the trigger bar's notch. I opted to remove a little off the trigger tab that contacts the frame.

[bubbala]

I too read the reviews that said the trigger changed little.
That was not my experience.Although I did other mods at the same time,that trigger was a worthwhile improvement.

[pinger]

I have the UDX frame. The Tandemcross trigger increased the reach to the trigger and also has side to side play most noticeable at the lower end of the trigger.

I haven't got around to examining if it just needs take-up washers or the trigger pin is too small or the pivot hole in the trigger is too large.

I haven't done any other mods to the gun and the improvement with just the trigger is minimal. The overtravel stop is better but the reach for my finger is worse.

[mitch1]

UDX frame here. I disliked the TK trigger. The feel wasnt right for me and the play was too much.
I tossed it in the bin of bad mods and moved on

[Usmc0844spare]

Thanks for the input guys. I went and ordered one a couple days ago, so we'll see if some of the problems are repeated with me, and if so, what energy I try to expend to resolve, if any.

[broadside]

I really like my Victory Trigger from TK on my Buckmark. Combined with their gearbox its a great setup. Tune the over travel out, no slip, wider shoe. Much improved over stock for shooting it fast in steel challenge.

[Usmc0844spare]

I have the UDX frame. The Tandemcross trigger increased the reach to the trigger and also has side to side play most noticeable at the lower end of the trigger.

I haven't got around to examining if it just needs take-up washers or the trigger pin is too small or the pivot hole in the trigger is too large.

I haven't done any other mods to the gun and the improvement with just the trigger is minimal. The overtravel stop is better but the reach for my finger is worse.

I was thinking if there is side to side wobble I might mitigate that with some thin plastic shims between the trigger body and frame, probably made out of thin water bottle or milk jug plastic with hole for the trigger pin to pass through.

Is that what you mean by "take up washers"?

[pinger]

Yes, washers on the side would some help horizontal side to side play at the top and be part of the solution.

The trigger on my gun has a little side to side play at the top but more pronounced side to side swinging motion at the bottom of the trigger. Shims on the sides at the top to completely stop the rocking might also be enough to cause drag on the trigger.

The rocking motion can be caused by:
1. the frame hole is too large for the nominal trigger pin size
2. the diameter of the trigger pin is too small for the nominal frame hole size
3. the hole in the trigger being too large for the nominal trigger pin size
4. or (which is usually the case) a combination of all above
in addition to:
5. the width of the frame opening being too wide requiring washers on the side
6. the width of the TK trigger being too small

Were only talking about tenths of thousands of an inch difference. Manufacturing tolerances add up. That is why custom guns work better than production line guns. Maybe it is a UDX frame issue.

I bought my UDX new and have gently used for a couple thousand rounds. I never noticed play in the stock trigger but the reach is close to the grip. The reach to the TK trigger is out to the tip of my finger so it gets more side pressure.

One day when I get time I will take the trigger out and examine where play comes from.

[Usmc0844spare]

Yes, washers on the side would some help horizontal side to side play at the top and be part of the solution.

The trigger on my gun has a little side to side play at the top but more pronounced side to side swinging motion at the bottom of the trigger. Shims on the sides at the top to completely stop the rocking might also be enough to cause drag on the trigger.

The rocking motion can be caused by:
1. the frame hole is too large for the nominal trigger pin size
2. the diameter of the trigger pin is too small for the nominal frame hole size
3. the hole in the trigger being too large for the nominal trigger pin size
4. or (which is usually the case) a combination of all above
in addition to:
5. the width of the frame opening being too wide requiring washers on the side
6. the width of the TK trigger being too small

Were only talking about tenths of thousands of an inch difference. Manufacturing tolerances add up. That is why custom guns work better than production line guns. Maybe it is a UDX frame issue.

I bought my UDX new and have gently used for a couple thousand rounds. I never noticed play in the stock trigger but the reach is close to the grip. The reach to the TK trigger is out to the tip of my finger so it gets more side pressure.

One day when I get time I will take the trigger out and examine where play comes from.

OK, thanks.

Yeah, the drag issue occurred to me, hence the "washer" (or "washers") being thin plastic and just the right size to eliminate wobble but minimize drag, plus suitably lubed, might be a course of action.

I'll see if I have the issue and experiment with resolution and report back. Will also see what wobble if any is present with the stock trigger. [Just checked, the stock trigger on my URX has about 0.013" wobble at the bottom of the trigger]

And, conceivably, if there is wobble, it'll end up being something I can live with.

[pinger]

I just got a URX Contour and the stock trigger has sideplay. Probably as much as the TK trigger. The play is not as noticeable because my finger wraps around both sides because the close reach. My finger motion can pull the trigger straight back.

With the TK trigger, my fingertip pad is barely on the trigger with the rest of my finger flexing on one side. It takes a more dedicated motion to pull straight back. This is why I can feel the play.

In the end I feel the TK trigger does not have more play than stock. It is only more noticeable to me. Sorry about my earlier rant. My fault.

[Usmc0844spare]

I just got a URX Contour and the stock trigger has sideplay. Probably as much as the TK trigger. The play is not as noticeable because my finger wraps around both sides because the close reach. My finger motion can pull the trigger straight back.

With the TK trigger, my fingertip pad is barely on the trigger with the rest of my finger flexing on one side. It takes a more dedicated motion to pull straight back. This is why I can feel the play.

In the end I feel the TK trigger does not have more play than stock. It is only more noticeable to me. Sorry about my earlier rant. My fault.

I am in the process of getting mine dialed in and it's been a bit of an adventure. Here is what I've found:

1) Trigger pin hole is oversized. Pin had to be pounded out of the old trigger but drops freely into TK. I actually consider this to be a benefit; I think the trigger should rotate around a stationary pin, not rotate a pin in the holes in the frame. Oddly enough, I have NO side wobble when the trigger is reset.

2) Disconnector pin hole is too big. This is a problem. I had to loctite the pin into the hole to keep it from walking out (can't walk "in" since the trigger comes with a new disco pin that has a shelf midway that prevents this).

3) I MAY have the "too thick shelf" issue that "ol' shooter" referenced above. While it seems to work ok after some non-invasive fiddling, I am not sure the disco is moving freely enough to engage the sear under all conditions. Some filing may be in my future.

Edit: Final write up on the trigger I did here: https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threa...1292614/unread

[Usmc0844spare]

I had the choice to either remove a little material from the upper tab on the trigger where it contacts the frame or widen the trigger bar's notch. I opted to remove a little off the trigger tab that contacts the frame.

I also had to do this. Messing with the trigger tab as opposed to a functional disconnector seemed the wiser course of action.