Savage MK II Extraction Issue

[CVShooter]

Looking for some tips on FTEs with my Savage 22s.

Both are fairly new with <500 rounds through them. Both have constant FTEs. One extracts about 50% and the other <20%. We keep a screwdriver handy to remove the spent cases. I've cleaned the extractor, the bolt face and breech with no improvement. I've also tried a light filing on the extractor to help give it more bite on the rim of the case but neither of those fixes did anything.

Dummy rounds extract great. Spent cases are the challenge. It would seem that the firing pin may cause the case to pop out of the extractor since some cases appear to load & unload fine until fired.

Any tips? Fixes? After-market repairs?

[SandDiegoDuner]

Have you tried to call Savage for replacement parts? I have a mkii TR and haven?t had any issues with extraction.

[CVShooter]

Have you tried to call Savage for replacement parts? I have a mkii TR and haven?t had any issues with extraction.

Reached out to them via email & am awaiting a response.

[G-forceJunkie]

Have you checked the chamber and throat for carbon buildup, fowling, leading, etc? Give it a really good scrubbing with a bronze brush.

[VonRyan209]

Is this 1 kind of ammo doing this, or ALL types of ammo?

If it does this with any kind of ammo than something may be off that would probably require Savage to look at it.

Otherwise you are not the only one to have this issue: https://www.google.com/search?q=sava...t=gws-wiz-serp

Also here is a detailed thread about those issues : https://www.reddit.com/r/22lr/commen...x_two_springs/

What causes the savage mkii 22lr variants to fail to extract?

The provided spring does not have enough tension to remove casings from the barrel and

The small parts on the bolt are cheap, stamped parts, with many inconsistencies and fail to perform as intended.

The first step to resolving this issue, is increasing the spring tension. Remove the bolt and remove the spring or band that retains the extractor and cartridge guide. The extractor is black and goes on the right side (same side as bolt handle), and the cartridge guide is silver and goes on the left. The inlets on the spring face towards the stock end.

If you run into any issues field stripping or assembling the firearm, check the manual. The visual guide I posted at the top also contains some diagrams and images that can help.

With the extractor spring clip removed, apply tension with your fingers to it to bring the two ends closer together. Don?t go overboard, you don?t want to put a dent in your spring. Once you believe the spring has more tension, toss it back on your bolt and test it out. You can do this at the range, and in fact I suggest it, since you can immediately notice improvements, if any.

For my rifle, I noticed an immediate improvement in FTEs. The rifle would originally start failing to extract about 20-40 rounds in, by tightening up the spring, I could easily go a box and a half without any issue. This may be enough to fix your rifle. If not, keep reading.

[sofbak]

An alternative to the "bend the spring", or "double the spring" is to polish the chamber.
I have 2 MK II rifles and one had this FTE issue.
Took a .22 bore mop, a piece of vinyl tape, a short section of cleaning rod, a drill, and Mother's Aluminum polish.
No more FTE.

[Gun Kraft]

I have four Mk IIs I use for NRA Marksmanship events. Each rifle will see 560 rounds go downrange in a day. I used a dremel cutoff wheel to modify the extractor for more grip and two springs. With that combination we have to run a brass brush a couple times through the chamber to remove fouling halfway through the day. No FTEs.